http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/ Your Mazda not zoom zooming or your VW not as reliable as you had hoped? then ask advice here. en Tue, 21 May 2013 21:47:28 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/images/styles/blackstealth/misc/rss.png http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/ http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?551679-Almera-1-5-starts-then-cuts-out&goto=newpost Fri, 17 May 2013 21:04:26 GMT 2001 on a 51 plate. Runs ok for a few seconds before struggling then stalls. There is spark on all 4 cylinders and we've pulled the fuel return hose and fuel is going through the rail until after the engine stops.

Pressing the throttle just makes it stall quicker. Plugs are new and aren't wet with fuel or anything.

ECU gives code for MAF but it doesn't run with MAF disconnected either. Was fine until plugs were changed (same with old plugs).

Help :confused: ]]> Technical - Non S-Body Pete C http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?551679-Almera-1-5-starts-then-cuts-out http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?551513-Peugeot-206-Diesel-1-9&goto=newpost Wed, 15 May 2013 11:10:28 GMT my Pug died its a 1999 206 Diesel, its not Turbo nor is it the HDi. sometimes on a cold start it would fire, then stall about 10 seconds later, but if you reved it it would then be happy. just started it, it stalled. started it again, reved it and drove 200 yards, accellerated upto the road... my Pug died its a 1999 206 Diesel, its not Turbo nor is it the HDi.

sometimes on a cold start it would fire, then stall about 10 seconds later, but if you reved it it would then be happy.

just started it, it stalled. started it again, reved it and drove 200 yards, accellerated upto the road speed of 40mph, then the car cut out, and wont start.

the glowplug light wont come on either.

it turns over fine waiting for a "spark" (i know its a diesel blah blah blah, but its the best description i have)

i've done a bit of research and there is no answer on "if the glow plugs have failed, will the light still come on?

so i'm not sure what to do.

Glow plugs are £13 each, or is it the relay? and i cant even find the part online ]]> Technical - Non S-Body Monkey http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?551513-Peugeot-206-Diesel-1-9 http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?551250-How-to-check-coilovers-are-still-in-PWO&goto=newpost Fri, 10 May 2013 15:43:06 GMT i have had HSD HR's on my s15 for a while now im considering getting a New set as its Getting all new Arms and a good clean up underneath,

Want to make sure they are all 100% before selling them on,

they drive sound no knocks or funny noises or such.

i coppergreased them when i got them and they came apart Dead handy lastnight :)



my question is,

What should i check to make sure they are still in PWO?

i checked the topmounts and there is no play in them,

but how will i check that the shocks are ok? :thumbs: ]]> Technical - Non S-Body ali-d1936 http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?551250-How-to-check-coilovers-are-still-in-PWO http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?551213-Running-a-stage-1-chip-with-out-a-FMIC-Safe&goto=newpost Fri, 10 May 2013 07:30:16 GMT I have all supporting mod's for a stage 1A chip except for a FMIC.
Obviously i have a WMIC.
Bought a stage 1A ecu on pure impulse the other day because it was a very good price.

Wont have the time or money to do the FMIC for at least another couple of months.
Obviously being the child that i am i want to fit my new toy (the stage 1 ecu) asap!

Question is- will this be ok or will it affect the A/F to much?

In my head.... WMIC means hotter air = less air per c/m.
Therefore the car will run more rich with the stage 1 map.
so i would be OK (well - alot safer than running lean anyways).
I would hardly think that is would be enough to cause wash out or anything like that).

Anyone running a stage 1 without a FMIC?
Did you have any problems?

Cheers ]]> Technical - Non S-Body stacky http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?551213-Running-a-stage-1-chip-with-out-a-FMIC-Safe http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?551209-Serious-problem-with-steering-on-my-R33-anyone-here-have-experience-with-them&goto=newpost Fri, 10 May 2013 07:02:12 GMT First off - Why didn't i post on the skyline owners forum.... simple - i kinda of did already and was seriously unimpressed with the quality of posts back (to say the least)!

Secondly - The only differences between an R33 and S14 rack (incase you didnt know) are:
1). The 33 rack is 50mm od, an s14 rack is 45mm od.
2). The 33 rack uses speed sensitive steering - its controlled by a solenoid which the ecu feeds voltage to. At 40mph plus it has no voltage so the rack valve closes and becomes heavy - and once it goes under 40mph,The solenoid cylinder extends pushing a valve in the rack to make the steering lighter for lower speeds.

Anyway..... my steering was PERFECT until last Saturday night. very light at low speeds as normal.
Then woke up Sunday morning, turned the key... almost NO power steering!
I was probably getting 10% assistance.

Thought process......

Step 1:
Rack solenoid has failed.
Ran 12v's to it to open it.... NO change.
Removed it from the rack, powered it again.... it's opening.
So that's not the problem.

Step 2:
Rack possibly damaged?
Got an S14 rack.... fitted it same day.
No change (probably worse and now steering feels "jerky").

Step 3:
Power steering pump:
Bought a 2nd hand pump from a working car.....
Fitted it next day....
Re-tentioned belt (no slipping)
Slight change, slightly more power assisted (guess about 60%) but still wayyyy off what it used to be.
Also it's smooth now - not jerky.

Step 4:
Hydraulic lines blown out with an air line (incase of dirt or blockage).
No change.

Step 5:
Fitted my old R33 rack as i figured it was probably fine and possibly an R33 pump has less pressure for tahn an S14 one so may not be suited to the rack....
NO CHANGE!!!! ahhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!

So now i have 60% power assisted steering.
It's drivable every day but when parking for example i would certainly need 2 hands to turn the wheel - impossible with one as i normally would have done - so that kind of gives you an idea of how much heavier it is.

The only thing left that i can think of is to fit a different R33 rack. But i think the chances of the pump and rack going on the same day are stupidly slim!

Anyone know what is left or what it could be?
Or, has anyone fitted an S14 rack to an R33 and if so was it alot heavier? ]]> Technical - Non S-Body stacky http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?551209-Serious-problem-with-steering-on-my-R33-anyone-here-have-experience-with-them http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?551200-Seat-Leon-Woes-anyone-got-a-VAGCOM&goto=newpost Thu, 09 May 2013 20:41:03 GMT Stupid ESP warning light's been stuck on in the '56 Leon (family wagon). Aparently it's most likely to be a faulty ABS pump sensor, which is an ABS pump change at £1500 from a main stealer, or some sort of send it off to a specialist for a repair for a £250.

Anyway, stability control is a bit overkill on a FWD diesel, it's hardly prone to power oversteer - so I'd just ignored it. However, believe this is now (or was meant to be) an MOT fail... and it's MOT time.

So,

1. Can anyone confirm whether the announced rules on stability system warning lights has actually come in yet (heard it's been delayed owing to difficulties implementing the rule)?

2. Does anyone have a VAGCOM so I can hook it up and check it is this particular fault before a fork out to get it sorted?

Cheers,
-Dave ]]> Technical - Non S-Body daveyboydave http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?551200-Seat-Leon-Woes-anyone-got-a-VAGCOM http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?550973-Mk-IV-Supra&goto=newpost Sun, 05 May 2013 22:00:02 GMT I have spotted a Mk IV Supra for sale not too far from where I live, for what I think might be a very cheap price. Obviously there is a good chance it is cheap for a reason, but they are advertising it as a trade in to clear so it might be one of those rare finds. Now I have always liked the... I have spotted a Mk IV Supra for sale not too far from where I live, for what I think might be a very cheap price. Obviously there is a good chance it is cheap for a reason, but they are advertising it as a trade in to clear so it might be one of those rare finds.

Now I have always liked the look of these, but I am saving my money for my drift project and I already have 7 cars just now.

I am considering buying it to either sell on or to take the engine out. I can't be sure, but the advert says it is a turbo charged engine, so I assume it's a 2jz. Is this something that I could use in my s14a?


I had a look through other threads to see if this has been done or considered before, but all I could really find were arguements.

Its a 1998 with 200,000km. ]]> Technical - Non S-Body rd_jon http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?550973-Mk-IV-Supra http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?550829-Yay-Smoking-530d&goto=newpost Fri, 03 May 2013 08:05:57 GMT My 530d has started smoking on idle and initial pull away :( It has the updated vortex breather and the egr has been disconnected. Had a poke around yesterday and there is 'some' oil in the IC pipework. Car idles and drives fine, plenty of poke still.

Any ideas or other known issues? ]]> Technical - Non S-Body Mark http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?550829-Yay-Smoking-530d http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?550600-Damaged-sump-nut-thread&goto=newpost Mon, 29 Apr 2013 10:44:38 GMT Whats the best way to fix a, damaged by previous owner, sump thread?

When doing the oil change last week, i thought hell this sump nut cam was not tight,and the threads had gasket gunk on there. When putting back on, it tightens to a 'reasonable' tightness, but then any more and it goes loose again, and the cycle repeats.

Will a new sump nut do the trick or is it gonna need a helicoil, or am i best with a replacement sump?

I put a decat on at weekend and one of the bolts was doing the same as above. I then used a different bolt on the same thread and hey ho, it worked! Hence why i ask if a simple sump nut swap would work ]]> Technical - Non S-Body craiglancs http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?550600-Damaged-sump-nut-thread http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?550577-Clio-172-2003-help-with-knocking&goto=newpost Sun, 28 Apr 2013 19:28:52 GMT Hi guys Car is a 172 non cup 2003 with 85,000 miles on it. Anyway my problem. I have changed suspension to GAZ coilovers, and installed PureMotorsport solid top mounts and also installed new lower ball joints both side as one side was knackered anyway. I changed the top-mounts as thats... Hi guys

Car is a 172 non cup 2003 with 85,000 miles on it.

Anyway my problem. I have changed suspension to GAZ coilovers, and installed PureMotorsport solid top mounts and also installed new lower ball joints both side as one side was knackered anyway.

I changed the top-mounts as thats what I originally thought it was a shagged OEM top mount. I also changed the lower ball joint at the same time as I saw one of those was definatley very loose. The coil overs just happened to go on at the same time as I was changing everything else anyway. The problem was there pre everything changed anyway.

Me and my friend who are pretty technically and mechanically minded have been scratching out heads, we thing it could be coming from driveshaft/cv joint but there is no play on them, another thought was the gearbox/drivetrain, what could be knocking there?

I can feel it when braking over bumps through the pedal. Also when going slowly about 5mph etc you can hear it but really sounds like top mounts or ball joint.

Could it be the ARB bushes shagged? Really dont think its the wishbone bushes, they seem fine to me.

What can people suggest to check? really want to get it checked as I need alignment done but dont want to do that until I find out what it could be as I may end up changing a bush etc to fix and would need it doing again.

Thanks

​Rich ]]> Technical - Non S-Body bealehere http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?550577-Clio-172-2003-help-with-knocking http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?550551-does-a-aftermarket-oil-cooler-filter-location-cost-you-oil-pressure&goto=newpost Sun, 28 Apr 2013 14:24:56 GMT Just curious, was once told that fitting a oil cooler kit with remote filtercan cost you a bit of oil pressure. Any experience of this anyone ? Or is outweighed and balanced out by the cooler oil giving more pressure. Just curious, was once told that fitting a oil cooler kit with remote filtercan cost you a bit of oil pressure. Any experience of this anyone ? Or is outweighed and balanced out by the cooler oil giving more pressure. ]]> Technical - Non S-Body eager http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?550551-does-a-aftermarket-oil-cooler-filter-location-cost-you-oil-pressure