Decent clutch for drifting?

[Mitch]

Killed off my clutch today, as it was on it's way out when I bought it, and I think I just tipped it over the edge with a few clutch kicks :D

Does anyone know if the LUK one Bren sells will be up to the job, or do I need to bite the bullet and buy an expensive one as it's for drifting? My car probably won't go above 250 BHP, as I think I'll be going no further than Exhaust, Filter, Boost, FMIC, Pump, and T28 if I kill this one.

Also, if anyone's got a decent one for sale, please give me a shout. I'd like one ASAP and have dosh waiting.

Many thanks,

Mitch

PS No spinning today :D :D :D (Anyone who knows me will realise that's a massive step) :thumbs:

[James]

I don't reckon you need an expensive clutch for drifting. I've never had any problems with standard clutches and I think Phil's running a LUK at the moment.

[Mitch]

Cheers James :thumbs:
Is Bren the cheapest at £135?

[Sideways Danny]

the LUK is about £135 from most performance specialists, you won't get it any cheaper. Think there is an EBC one available for around £100 no idea where from though. I'd get a paddle if I were you :nod: :nod:

[Mitch]

And a paddle costs how much? :eek: :D

[PhilMorrison]

if I didn't daily drive my car, I would have kept my Cusco Rocket clutch, but as it wore out in 6 months and 3000 miles, I couldn't afford to replace it that often (it cost me about £600) since then I've had the LUK in, it was originally something to get me by, while I saved for the Nismo SuperCopperMix (£735 + VAT :eek: ) but 6 months down the line, the LUK is still going, it occasionally burns out a little when initiating a drift with a clutch kick, but that is a good thing, I don't clutch kick half as much as I used to :thumbs:.. anyway, if you can afford a paddle, and can afford to replace it relatively frequently if you daily drive, then do it, but if not LUK all the way :)

[Mitch]

Well, I wouldn't say it's a daily driver, but I couldn't buy a clutch that'd last 3000 miles :eek:
Sounds like a LUK one for me, then :nod:
How do you normally initiate your drifts then, just weight transfer and power?

[risky business]

Just had an Luk fitted to mine so it's a bit early to tell but it didn't give any problems at the last competiton and I'm running 200 bhp.

Jon

[Mitch]

Been offered one for nowt, so might chuck that in first and see how I get on, then get a LUK when it dies :D

[PhilMorrison]

Been offered what for nowt? jammy begger :D

LUK is basically a standard clutch, it uses the same pressure plate and spring rate, it possibly has a slightly better friction material than OE :)

I try to initiate all drifts with weight transfer now, it can't always be done when space is tight, but it's so much smoother than clutch kicking..

[Mitch]

Sorry, an EBC one.

Can just about do it with clutch kick/handbrake, I think weight transfer/shiftlock is a long way off me yet :nod: , so knackered clutches for some time to come!! :D

[dorifter]

mitch try this,as you approach a right turn......imagine in your head that you were going to scandi flik the corner...and just before the right turn say to yourself LEFT even very slightly do the motion(possibly reduces understeer)....its so far off basic instincts i find it helps to drum it in ........but then again i'm a very sensible driver and need thearopy like methods to help me "IM TURNING RIGHT ...NO I'M NOT I'M TURNING LEFT"

another method that needs a gimp to explain and new subframe bushes is...
on entry to the right or left do a handbrake skid the opposite way correct the skid then pull it up again and the car will slide aronnd the corner in what is a messy wheel locking drift but it will show you the weight transfer in a crude way

:wave:

[yeager]

I've got a Nismo cover and Helix 4 paddle in mine, can't remember the cost, somewhere around 300 for the both but it performs EXCELLENTLY. Not had a single smell of burning clutch yet... even after my daft burnouts at the UKD1 2nd round :)

[Mitch]

I think I know what you're saying, Nick, I'll give it a go, once me clutch is done. :nod:

Si, I can't afford 300 quid at the mo, so I need to see how I'll get on with the LUK, as it's half the price. Do appreciate the advice, though-don't get me wrong :thumbs:

[Martblusx]

Flippin vandal :p

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/pl.blythe/images/DSC_4726b.jpg

[yeager]

Si, I can't afford 300 quid at the mo, so I need to see how I'll get on with the LUK, as it's half the price. Do appreciate the advice, though-don't get me wrong :thumbs:

Worth getting the paddle without the cover tho... will last you long time :)

[yeager]

Flippin vandal :p

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/pl.blythe/images/DSC_4726b.jpg

Man I am SO pished no-one got that on video either :(

[SteveCarter200]

Worth getting the paddle without the cover tho... will last you long time :)

Disagree:). IMO the cover makes more difference than the plate.

[Mitch]

That's what I would have thought, as it provides the clamping force.
Where did you get them, Simon?

[yeager]

That's what I would have thought, as it provides the clamping force.
Where did you get them, Simon?

Cover I got from Bren for (as usual) a great price. Reciepts at home but I think it was about 120 notes.

The clutch SCA sourced from Helix. I was after an AP paddle but they were a bunch of slow useless knobs. Can't remember the cost.

[Mitch]

I was quoted more than that from Apex, and they weren't in stock, so I'm going to go with the free one I was offered, and get some Whiteline ARBs instead :D

Sensible to the last :wack: (Guess I'll be after a new one next week/month)