Speaker cable

[Papa Lazarou]

Just wondering if anyone has completely replaced the really crappy and thin factory speaker cable with a decent one. I reckon this stuff would really hold back the performance of any decent equipment.

If you did how easy to do? Did you encounter any problems running thick cable into the doors etc?

Cheers

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'94 Nissan Silvia K's (S14)
HKS Hiper exhaust, Apex-i AVC-R Boost Controller, HKS SQV blow off valve, HKS Fuel Cut Defencer, HKS AFR, FGK high flow cat, non standard suspension...

On order - Blitz LM Spec intake, HKS FMIC, Trust 80 mm downpipe, HKS spark plugs, Cusco Reinforced Metal Clutch

[JackaL]

I ran new cable to the rears, but left the fronts as standard as it looked a bit tricky to change it!

[DJFish]

Laz,
Have a read of my replies on this thread, dunno if the cables make a difference but it made me feel better! http://300zx.co.uk/200sx/ubb/biggrin.gif
http://300zx.co.uk/200sx/ubb/Forum7/HTML/000040.html

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http://www.freakygamers.com/smilies/s/contrib/xerx/smileydavid.gif
Black Almera GTi/Blue S14, standard apart from loud stereo and blue smelly tree.

[Diddn]

Laz, You'll notice on the thread DJ has posted above, I mentioned I've run 10 gauge Speaker wires to the doors. 10 Gauge is approx 3.5mm thick, x2 for + & -, then 2 again for new tweeters in doors. All pass thru the original rubber tube between door hinge and wing.
The thicker wires make all the difference at continuous high volume.

[Papa Lazarou]

Thanks for the info! The back speakers seems easy enough but the front door looks like it might be a bit of a b*****d!!!

I'm well aware of the difference cable can make. On my home system replacing 'bellwire' with big thick Cable Talk 2 cable made a very obvious difference and was worth the money. Speaker cable is available for real hi-fi buffs costing well over £100/m!!! Perhaps this would be overkill on all but the most expensive systems...

[Diddn]

It really depends on how much power you're feeding to the speakers.
I've used 10 gauge because I pushing about 150W RMS to the door speakers. Genearally that kind of power is used on Subs, and requires that type of wiring.
Generally, 15/18 gauge is good enough for 50W RMS, and is usually the size of speaker wires supplied with some speakers.
I'm installing a 1500W system and didn't want to compromise in quality, hence went for the largest wire the speaker terminal would accomodate.