View Full Version : This damded clutch noise problem again !!
Hi,
Well, Mr Nissan have had the car all day, and they reckon my clutch noise is the input shaft bearing in the gearbox (loads of wonga).
Am I being completely stupid here or what ?
Clutch pedal down, gearbox input shaft aint spinning right ? That's what the clutch does, not much point in having it otherwise http://300zx.co.uk/200sx/ubb/smile.gif
So if I've got a bearing noise with the clutch pedal down... how the bleedin nora can it possibly be anything to do with the gearbox ?
I had a read of craig's comments a while back, he had an input shaft go on his 300, but from what I can gather this was with the clutch engaged as you'd expect.
Tom
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1996 Blue/Green S14 (manual)
K&N cone filter
2.5" Tube-torque Cat Back Exhaust.
TechTom MDM-100
Race-Technology AP-22
http://tom.marshall.tripod.com
bleedin nora it can't.
Likely release bearing if it rumbles.
Mine squawks, only when reversing and only first couple of minutes after starting. I've been told this is the outer edge of the release bearing spinning against the diaghragm fingers (which it shouldn't do). This will break eventually.
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'95 blue/green S14
I need an INSANE badge more than you.
Ah ! Hmm, wonder if it's that then. It does sound pretty similar to mine.
They swear blind at the dealer, it's a new bearing (well they would) - so maybe it's just fitted badly.
Because the noise has remained the same before and after they did the clutch, they're trying to use that as an argument for ruling the clutch out.
I thought my basic understanding of how an engine connects to the wheels was reasonable http://300zx.co.uk/200sx/ubb/smile.gif
I think I'll go over tomorrow and draw them a diagram http://300zx.co.uk/200sx/ubb/smile.gif
Tom
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1996 Blue/Green S14 (manual)
K&N cone filter
2.5" Tube-torque Cat Back Exhaust.
TechTom MDM-100
Race-Technology AP-22
http://tom.marshall.tripod.com
goosegog
29-08-2001, 20:07
Does the noise go as soon as you get to biting point? Ie, you can apply a little pressure to the clutch and it is silent until fully dis-engaged?
This happened on mine so I took the gearbox out and lubricated the spigot bearing (where the input shaft meets the crank shaft at the flywheel) and the noise stopped.
It could also be the centre plate chattering on the input shaft
You may wish to squirt a little WD40 using the little red straw they supply with the can. Squirt through the release fork hole into the centre of the clutch. Don't worry about contamination, that would take a lot of oil!
You're unlikely to reach the spigot bearing this way but it's worth a go
I had a major oil leak from the gearbox front seal which made the clutch slip... just
I renewed the seal and simply de-greased the centre plate (it had done only 400 miles) and it is fine now, no slip so don't worry about contamination - just don't soak everything!
Hope this is of help
Ferg
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Cheers,
Well, yep, the noise does go when the clutch starts to bite. It's getting bloody noisy now when cold, when it warms up, it's not too bad.
It's going to take some investigation, but I don't really want to pay nissan again.
Got a mate with a pit and a whole load of air tools etc... how hard is it to take the gearbox off ?
tom
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1996 Blue/Green S14 (manual)
K&N cone filter
2.5" Tube-torque Cat Back Exhaust.
TechTom MDM-100
Race-Technology AP-22
http://tom.marshall.tripod.com
teamcapsule
30-08-2001, 11:07
It took me and my mate 6 hours to take it off... but then again, we didn't have the proper tools and the damn bridge was too low, we had to work on our knees!
Putting it on was easier... 3 hours.
goosegog
30-08-2001, 19:48
First time it took me an hour to get out as I had a bastard bolt at the top of the bell housing
Second time took 1/2 hr as everything was greased when it went back and I knew exactly what to do but I did have a ramp and air tools
Try my WD40 trick first
Ferg
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Cheers,
I'll give that a go then.
Done some work on cars before, but nothing on this one. Did a head on a citroen ax, a bottom end rebuilt on a fiesta, driveshafts, bearings, that kind of stuff. I reckon unbolting a gearbox housing and taking it off can't be that hard.
Thing is - - I can get nissan to take off the gearbox for free under warranty if I claim the clutch is at fault. Sounds to me like zero quid labour. While the gearbox is off, I can get them to check the input shaft bearing....if it's dodgy, I don't mind paying them to put a new one on for me if it saves me a load of hassle then it might just be worth it. Otherwise, they can kiss my fat one, and me and my mate can do it for half the price. I'll whack some WD40 in there tomrorrow, I was a bit concerned about oil contamination (it is a brand new clutch, I don't want to go shagging it (metaphorically speaking))... but it's by far the cheapest option !
Tom
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1996 Blue/Green S14 (manual)
K&N cone filter
2.5" Tube-torque Cat Back Exhaust.
TechTom MDM-100
Race-Technology AP-22
http://tom.marshall.tripod.com
Oh right, just thought of something I need to ask.
The bearing on the shaft wot comes off the crankshaft to go to the clutch, such is my rudimentary understanding http://300zx.co.uk/200sx/ubb/smile.gif.
Can anyone tell me, once I've yanked the gearbox off, can I take this bearing out using a bearing puller ? Do I have to take the bloody engine apart to get at it. I like the sound of just greasing the bastard up, but if I've got the box off, I might as well bung a new bearing in there if I can. I think all those 1/4 mile practise runs, dropping the clutch probably shagged it in the first place.
Tom
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1996 Blue/Green S14 (manual)
K&N cone filter
2.5" Tube-torque Cat Back Exhaust.
TechTom MDM-100
Race-Technology AP-22
http://tom.marshall.tripod.com
goosegog
04-09-2001, 18:19
Tom
The spigot bearing is a solid brass piece nut a ball bearing. If you shove your finger in the hole, it should come out with the bearing on the end!
Don't bother with a new one. Just make sure it's clean and give it a lick of grease before putting it back. Some say it should be dry and some say greased (applies to input shaft splines too). I say greased! I tried dry and it or the clutch centre plate was noisy
Gearbox out is easy
Drain Oil
Split the prop half way
Drop the exhaust downpipe off (not essential)
Gear lever out
Disconnect speedo and other wires
Mount off
Slave cylinder off
All bell housing bolts (most difficult bit as they sieze)
Good luck
Ferg
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I'm surprised no-one has told you to get an Auto Gearbox yet Tom?
How's it coming on with the repairs?
I put the Strut Bar on my car today and it makes a big difference to the handling. The front corners much flatter, so much so, that I should have done the rear at the same time!
I get the feeling the tuning bug is never ending!
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Pearlescent Red 95N/S14
OBX Short Shifter
PDM Front Strut Bar
K&N Induction Filter
Private Plate
Round Wheels
http://www.gograph.com/Images-8712/AnimatedGif/wrbean.gif
ICQ 124584354
"Any views expressed in this message are based solely on personal opinion"
Cheers guys,
Well, I'll have to sort this bloody thing out cos it's pissing me off now. I'll "shove my finger in the hole and give it a good greasing" and see what happens I suppose.
I should be able to do the job, comes to something when I trust myself to do it more than the nissan dealer, who (with the greatest of respect) seem intent on extorting as much money from me as they can.
Bean, I hoped the strut brace would work nicely, the S14 is just too bloody soft. Get the back end going and it kind of oscillates doesn't it ? Far too sloppy.
Hopefully I've got a rear bumper, picking it up tomorrow, and rear light clutster sorted out.
Some joker has put a plaster on the lamp post I hit ! No ****, probably the next door neighbour, he saw me do it and pissed himself.
Tom
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1996 Blue/Green S14 (manual)
K&N cone filter
2.5" Tube-torque Cat Back Exhaust.
TechTom MDM-100
Race-Technology AP-22
http://tom.marshall.tripod.com
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