Early S14 manifold cracking problem - anyone have info on this?

[Papa Lazarou]

I heard in another recent thread about this issue. Can anyone describe at what sort of age or mileage this tends to happen. Is it a gradual thing or does it just blow releasing loads of exhaust gas into the engine bay? If not obvious how would I tell if I had the problem? Would a HKS turbo and manifold solve the problem.. OK just trying to justify an upgrade to myself there http://300zx.co.uk/200sx/ubb/redface.gif

Any further details much appreciated http://300zx.co.uk/200sx/ubb/wink.gif

[David_S14]

Had mine replaced under warranty about 18 months ago (at 48K). It did not go all of a sudden but over a few weeks. I took it into a garage to get it diagnosed (as it was under warranty) and they showed me a crack in the manifold (about level with no. 3 cylinder) .The guy said they'd done a couple of early S14's (he had the parts list needed for the job already) and I was lucky that I caught it soon as one of the ones he'd done had cracked and some bits from the manifold had visited the turbo http://300zx.co.uk/200sx/ubb/frown.gif .
Looking at the receipt for the work (don't you just luv main dealer pricing http://300zx.co.uk/200sx/ubb/wink.gif )
£260 labour,£455 parts (manifold, EGR tube, gaskets etc.) all +vat
Once it was finished I talked to the guy about the problem and he said that non of the cars he'd done or knew about had done more than 50K so if yours has done more it should be OK.
You can't miss the noise when it starts, made my car sound like a "tipper truck" http://300zx.co.uk/200sx/ubb/eek.gif

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David
"Purplish Blue Pearl" 1995 S14
K&N,Mongoose,HKS Fuel pump, Blitz FATT-S,Racelogic Adj. Traction Control.

[Papa Lazarou]

Thanks Dave. Mines done just over 40K so I guess I'll find out soon enough. Those Nissan dealer prices are a bit scary.

Cheers

[Deano_s14]

I discovered mine when I took the heat-sheild off to fit an ND actuator. You would'nt have known otherwise. I took mine off myself and got a mate to weld it. If you weld it properly and grind away around the crack beforehand so its nice and clean you should be o.k. Mine wasnt that bad though so maybe if it starts sounding like a JCB you should forget the welding idea and be prepared to put your hand in your pockets.
If you want to check it its quite easy.... Take off the two bolts holding the electrical connectors above the heat-sheild and move them out the way, disconnect the two oil breather pipes from the crankcase, remove all the bolts from the heat-sheild and remove the heat-sheild. Its a bit awkward getting the sheild out but I found if you lift the end nearest the bulkhead up first it will come out. A good way to see if its got a crack is to look on the inside of the sheild once its off, any soot start to worry! When you can see the bare manifold you can spot the design fault, the other outlets all have 'webs' across them, the one at the back doesnt and I bet thats where everyones crack develops http://300zx.co.uk/200sx/ubb/rolleyes.gif

Oh yeah, mines only done 26k.

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1995 S14, ND boost actuator, K&N cone, Bailey DV26 Evo piston dump valve.

[This message has been edited by Deano_s14 (edited 22-09-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Deano_s14 (edited 22-09-2001).]