View Full Version : ECU Map issue
Tokyo_black
01-03-2010, 14:21
Weird question but i'm having some unusual on-boost missfire issues.
I've eliminated the air leaks and yet to check the plugs (checked them a week ago and they were okay) and my question was do you think it's possible for a fuel starve, lots of jumping etc to **** up a map?
at what revs is it misfiring?
Tokyo_black
01-03-2010, 17:44
Any gear, any rev @ 0.5bar boost. It's not just a miss it's a total hesitation and it wasn't there a week ago :confused:
i had a similar issue last year and it turned out to be the plugs.i think they just fouled up from the car just being started and stoped every now and again.
plugs are the cheaper option just now but how old is ur fuel pump? i had hesitation on my old 200sx and we tried everything but turned out to be the fuel pump was knackered. ran fine off boost but as soon as the foot hit the floor there was nothing but alot of spluttering and popping and the car wouldnt move.
plugs are the cheaper option just now but how old is ur fuel pump? i had hesitation on my old 200sx and we tried everything but turned out to be the fuel pump was knackered. ran fine off boost but as soon as the foot hit the floor there was nothing but alot of spluttering and popping and the car wouldnt move.
I believe his pump will now be brand new, Joe try plugs but if its not that get a power run done on a decent rollers then ask for afr,boost and power curves, its a cheaper way of diagnosing than chucking parts at it, another thing you need to try is get morf to sit in your boot and look at fue pump voltage while you drive (there must be a reason for your appetite for pumps):thumbs:
redsx94!
01-03-2010, 19:24
There has been two similar issues up here lately where when it comes on the boost it constantly hesitates and the more you turn the boost up the worse it got.
One person was boombastik who had a similar prob. He thought it was a boost leak so he bought a front mount and it was still there. Put my coilpacks in and it sorted it.
The other one was at the crail drift day at crail on sat where ryan had similar issues as boombastik so we borrowed someones coilpacks and it was still there so we started to blame the map as he had said it was like that since he got it. But then dunks had a thought, what about the ignition pack on the strut. Borrowed one out of johnnys s14a and it sorted it.
So there's a couple of things to try. I think it's def spark related going by the other 2
im having same probs on high boost. spins up then misses then spins up again. i run nistune so can see on map if its related to it. worked out its the spark blowing out at high boost. just put some colder plugs in and closed the gap a bit to sort it, before i start going down the twin spark amps etc.
try your sparks, if its been lean due to your pump going, a plug tip might have melted.
Tokyo_black
02-03-2010, 09:55
Can anyone recommend me a plug for an SR20 @ 300hp?
redsx94!
02-03-2010, 10:07
Ngk grade 7's iridium should be fine for that power. I think grade 8's are anything over 350bhp. But you could use them as well if wanted
redsx94!
02-03-2010, 10:17
http://www.h-dev.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=78_169_409_419_424&products_id=170&osCsid=4ea0e2a5d97e52c78b2e37d2ad0f86c9
mines running about 350 mate, i have just put some rs turbo copper ngks in for now, to see if it fixes the problem. 12 quid from halfords as opposed to forty. 6 with trade card. bcp8 res i think they were.
Tokyo_black
02-03-2010, 10:43
Cheers for the link mate, i've decided to take my plugs out at lunch so hopefully in a couple of hours i'll bring them in and get some pics up on this thread. Figners crossed there's something very wrong with them as it's a relatively cheap fix :D
redsx94!
02-03-2010, 11:06
Remember to try the coilpacks and ignition amp if it still doesn't clear it. It won't cost anything to borrow it from someone. Here's a tip for when you try the ignition amp. Don't take yours off your strut just take the one you borrow right off and just plug it in, front of your one.
Tokyo_black
02-03-2010, 16:39
Spark 1
http://www.180sx.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/contributer-3/spark-1.jpg
Spark 2
http://www.180sx.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/contributer-3/spark-2.jpg
Spark 3
http://www.180sx.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/contributer-3/spark-3.jpg
Spark 4
http://www.180sx.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/contributer-3/spark-4.jpg
Any thoughts?
The first plug was bone dry, all the further plugs have a ring of sticky oil/tar around their bases :confused:
redsx94!
02-03-2010, 17:16
Rocker cover gasket rings round the plug holes prob need replacing although it looks like they were more likely fitted when there was a bit of oil done there. The plugs don't look to bad. Have they been in a while though
Tokyo_black
02-03-2010, 17:16
Yeah i've been lax, they've been in there for ages :wack:
They say IRIWAY 8 on them, does that mean they are grade 8? If so should I buy the grade 8 plugs instead of 7?
redsx94!
02-03-2010, 17:19
Clean em up and gap them to 0.8mm. I don't think it's a gap issue though as your gettin it at every revs. You would only blow out spark peek boost is hit and after
redsx94!
02-03-2010, 17:24
Grade 8's yip. Put in 8's if you want. Just the colder they are the more normal town driving will foul them up and cause misfires again until you give it some to clear them up
Tokyo_black
02-03-2010, 17:36
Okay I decided just to get new plugs as I should have done it ages ago. I went with the NGK 8's from Horsham.
Well it looks like the spark plugs are eliminated so I guess it's coilpacks next?
redsx94!
02-03-2010, 17:51
I was gonna say it looked like they had been cooked due to the heat of the engine over a period of time.
Cooked lol ? :wack: No they look perfect, dude grade 8 plug is far too cool for a daily, they coke up far too easily after a couple of short journeys and might even flood
Tokyo_black
02-03-2010, 18:28
Balls I trust your judgement Ali so I guess i'll email Jez and see if he can change them for 7's.
Going from the condition of the plugs what do you suspect mate?
redsx94!
02-03-2010, 18:28
they certianly dont look black ,creamy brown or white.
that colour of brown looks like they've cooked as in not lean cooked just hot from temp of the engine
for running your power Joe i would stick ngk grade 7's in.
redsx94!
02-03-2010, 18:39
i would say 7's aswell although i do know someone who has had 8's in a nearly standard 180sx for about a year now and it still runs perfect with no missfires and was on the rollers recently and had a nice smooth pull to 236bhp
Tokyo_black
02-03-2010, 18:41
I emailed jez and asked if he could change the order around to 7's just to be safe. In fairness I do a lot of short trips, I should have thought of that a bit better :nod:
they certianly dont look black ,creamy brown or white.
that colour of brown looks like they've cooked as in not lean cooked just hot from temp of the engine
No the colour they are is perfect, i m assuming joe didnt go thrashing round the block till the engine was red hot then take the plugs straight out, if he did they d be the colour your super special haynes manual is telling you lol.
Also how would engine heat cook a plug? they are designed to work in the engine lol, the only thing that will heat a plug up enough to fail is detonation.:wack:
redsx94!
02-03-2010, 19:51
Whatever your the plug guru of course. I said the plugs were fine then I asked if there'd been in there a while cause they looked it. And joe had said they had been in there for ages. But you come in here and cause a fuss if you want lol.
Perfect colour is creamy brown not redish brown
Tokyo_black
02-03-2010, 19:59
No fighting please, this is about fixing stupid old japanese cars :D
Whatever your the plug guru of course. I said the plugs were fine then I asked if there'd been in there a while cause they looked it. And joe had said they had been in there for ages. But you come in here and cause a fuss if you want lol.
Perfect colour is creamy brown not redish brown
Ha ha not causing a fuss lol calm down, i wasnt trying to insult you but you were giving incorrect info dude, i m sorry if i upset you it really wasnt intended honestly
redsx94!
02-03-2010, 20:10
not carrying on an argument but copy'd this from a thread about reddish brown plugs
"I believe this is a coolant issue. Redish/brown color may indicate a HEAT problem."
but they also go on to say it could be additives in the fuel
Tokyo_black
02-03-2010, 23:35
Getting away from plugs for a minute; if my afm wires or sensor had become a bit dodge would it give these same symptons?
It just occured to me that my afm has been chopped and soldered in preparation for a z32 install, the aa guy took off the afm and blasted it with carb cleaner I wonder if he ****ed up the wires as they were quite tight..
redsx94!
03-03-2010, 00:27
If it was the wires, if you wiggle them at idle and you don't hear no difference I would rule it out.
Tokyo_black
04-03-2010, 10:06
http://www.180sx.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/contributer-3/sparknew-1.jpg
http://www.180sx.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/contributer-3/sparknew-2.jpg
http://www.180sx.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/contributer-3/sparknew-3.jpg
These arrived today, i'll put them in at lunch and see how it goes :nod:
I have these, but I didnt take an arty shot of them before I put them in ;)
Tokyo_black
04-03-2010, 10:21
Haha yeah i'm hoping if I take some complimentary photos they will magically fix my missfire :wack:
I had a massive misfire, like you explained and changed the sparkies and that sorted it, then the engine went poop! If you want to try coilpacks, my car is at Ali's so you can swap things on mine with yours if you want!
Tokyo_black
04-03-2010, 10:55
Thanks mate that's really appreciated, if i'm stuck I might well head down there :nod:
No worries fella, any time.
redsx94!
04-03-2010, 12:24
Good luck joe
Tokyo_black
04-03-2010, 14:02
Well the plugs are in and on idle it purrs like a cat, very nice :nod:
On boost I still have my missfire but I now have two new symptons:
- If I ease on the throttle on boost I can achieve power without missfiring. If I floor it at any point it missfires like crazy.
- There is now a high pitched 'keening' sound from the intake area on boost. KHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEN like a kettle going off. This is not normal! It sounds like a pipe under immense pressure letting air out.
Any ideas? I rechecked the turbo pipework but nothing obvious.
sounds like classic boost leak symptoms to me mate. was any damage done taking the bumper off, or loading on the recovery truck? maybe a hose got snagged or something.
Rubix_Cube
04-03-2010, 15:56
You might find it has a fine hairline crack in a hose, this will only reveal when under pressure.
Tokyo_black
04-03-2010, 15:58
I guess it's bumper off time *again* and i'll do fairy liquid on the couplings to try and find the issue.
Unless anybody has a better technique?
that noise on boost sounds lik turbo gasket mate , also i had the part throttle fine full miss lik mad probem , chsnged plus still there , changed coil packs and jobs sorted :)
redsx94!
04-03-2010, 23:03
I would check the coilpacks and ignition amp first to see if it gets rid of the missfire then you can worry about noises
ha ha, i had the kettle sound with a missfire after i fitted the gt3071r.it turned out to be the nuts on the turbo to mani had loosened off and had blown the gasket.
Tokyo_black
10-03-2010, 15:58
Well i've tried soaping all the samco connections post AFM and had no joy at all :(
I also stuck my head next to the turbo and the gaskets sound fine, i've had turbo and manifold gaskets go before on SR20's and I know what they sound like and that isn't this :(
Also I changed the manifold gasket last year and the turbo gasket was fine.
Any thoughts?
Coilpacks next? What's the best way to test them?
Starting to hate this ****ing car :wacK:
redsx94!
10-03-2010, 16:25
The easiest way is to try a set you know is good from a a fellow sx'r. If it's better yours are ****ed lol
Tokyo_black
10-03-2010, 16:30
Noob question but do coilpacks 'blow' alone or do they all go at once?
Tokyo_black
10-03-2010, 17:02
Hmm that's good at least, I don't know anyone local with an SR20 so I guess i'll buy one coilpack of a breaker and try it.
redsx94!
10-03-2010, 17:07
Do you live on a deserted island lol
To confirm>> Yes coilpacks can blow one by one and SRs are very renowned for having them go (am taking a set of spares with me to Nurburg' for this very reason :nod:) .
I *may* be able to get hold of some more spares (or you can borrow the ones I'm taking to Nurburg' if you like for testing purposes chap) - I'll let you know.:thumbs:
Also, on a more extreme note, have you thought about doing a compression test to check for a blown Head Gasket, Holed piston, blown piston rings or dropped valve? Just in case this is the epicentre of the issue?
A
Tokyo_black
10-03-2010, 17:40
Good points spirit and yes that would be sweet to borrow and try, i'm going to volt meter them tomorrow does anyone know the correct default standard sr coilpack values?
Sideways14a
10-03-2010, 17:45
You have a boost leak opening up under pressure no doubt, yes coilpacks and pumps are a classic as well but boost leaks are the most common.
Tokyo_black
10-03-2010, 17:50
I'm going to try the coilpack voltages and do a compression test on it tomorrow so i'll post up results.
It does sound like a boost leak but I have checked the samco's and all seems fine.
Sideways14a
10-03-2010, 17:52
but I have checked the samco's and all seems fine.
But not under pressure, you cannot build up any significant boost pressure at standstill..
Tokyo_black
10-03-2010, 18:01
Well i'm making a day of it tomorrow so I will try and follow one of those pressure guides on the useful threads section if the coils and compression are not obvious :nod:
have you checked the Vac pipes?
Tokyo_black
10-03-2010, 19:16
Yep i've checked all the vac pipes.
I've done everything on my own so far but i'll have a mate with me tomorrow so i'll get a second opinion, maybe i've been a tard and missed something..
redsx94!
10-03-2010, 19:43
To be honest like I said already it sounds very similar to boombastiks problems here
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=438407
it doesn't tell you the outcome but people had said it was a boost leak so he bought a front mount and the missfire was still there. I lent him my coilpacks ages before but he was so convinced it was fuel pump or boost leak. So once he realised it was still there he thought **** it I'll try the coilpacks and it sorted it.
check and clean coil pack earth on the back of the head, i cleaned mine and it has made a big difference in afrs and general running of the engine :nod:
Use mine like I said before Joe, if you need to.
Tokyo_black
11-03-2010, 16:13
Quick update:
I emptied the BP fuel I bought on the motorway before it broke down and filled up with Vpower for my drive today and the missfire was no longer there. The car pulled to the redline on everygear at full boost including WOT.
The car is definately still overfueling though, some massive pops and stink of petrol.
I took the new plugs out to inspect:
Plug 1 : Closet to radiator ~ Almost white, tip looked like new
Plug 2 : Between white and brown
Plug 3 : Nicely browned as a plug should look
Plug 4 : Nicely browned as a plug should look
(I will attach pics when I get in)
I want to test the resistance on the coilpacks but I am struggling to work out how to test it and I have so far found no guides or useful information on this.
Reading online it is starting to look like (coilpacks aside, i will still test swap them) ignition timing could be out, my apexi says my igintion timing on idle is 25 deg, that seems mega high.
I'm working on my mates M3 evo at the same time so it's going a bit slow, WOW german over engineering is a joke, it took three hours to remove the intake chamer. Wtf.
For numbers/figures & how to test, may I suggest:
http://media.sxoc.com/manuals/s14/S14@200dpi.pdf ;)
(I also have a paper copy, if needs be)]
You're not telling me you put 95 ROM in her are you? :eek: :whip:
timing should be 15degrees btdc iirc, so yours it way out. only way to really check is with a gun.
Tokyo_black
11-03-2010, 18:02
Bit of a pisser but I didn't get a chance to test my coils, bloody m3!
On the return journey my missfire has returned to a lesser degree and my idle is definately at 15 deg ignition, I was talking out of my ass about 25 deg evidently..
Tokyo_black
11-03-2010, 19:09
Plug 1
http://www.180sx.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/contributer-3/plugsv2-1.jpg
Plug 2
http://www.180sx.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/contributer-3/plugsv2-2.jpg
Plug 3
http://www.180sx.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/contributer-3/plugsv2-3.jpg
Plug 4
http://www.180sx.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/contributer-3/plugsv2-4.jpg
try a different maf sensor
Tokyo_black
11-03-2010, 19:25
I cleaned out the AFM and it looks pretty clean, I also cleaned up the earth on the back of the cam cover.
Do CA18 and SR20 afm's interchange?
Pm me your address joe and I'll post you my redtop amf for you to try (I'll need it back though). I went z32 and now just keep it spare and to help out others.
Tokyo_black
11-03-2010, 19:43
That would be blinding mate, PM on it's way :D
BTW I saw your post on 180, your car is looking ****ing sexy :)
I love the zip ties!
no s13 ca mafs have a completely different translation to the s13 sr mafs
sounds like a wonky maf sensor if it only does it at a certain point at a lowish boost level and everything else has been checked out fine
Tokyo_black
11-03-2010, 19:50
I reckon it's the coils, when I chucked the high RON fuel in it, it temporarily cured the missfire. It's only come back after ****ing around and unplugging / carb cleaning afm / removing plugs.. this also eliminates the possibility of an air leak.
JTHM has very kindly offered to send me his redtop AFM to test anyway so I will give that a go and eliminate that element anyways :nod:
Oh and the current symptons are it's only on 4th and 5th gear on *high* boost, it's no longer a STUTTER STUTTER STUTTER, it's more you can just feel it's not right.
That would be blinding mate, PM on it's way :D
BTW I saw your post on 180, your car is looking ****ing sexy :)
I love the zip ties!
Replied bro. I'll post it the morra.
cheers for that,the zip ties should be replaced with new shiny sexy bumper by mid april.....cant wait.
Tokyo_black
11-03-2010, 19:56
Awesome :D
You should arrange a photoshoot for your car man it's beautiful, maybe we should get the best cars of 180sx.co.uk and do a group photo :D
Awesome :D
You should arrange a photoshoot for your car man it's beautiful, maybe we should get the best cars of 180sx.co.uk and do a group photo :D
Ahem okishima program :thumbs:
Awesome :D
You should arrange a photoshoot for your car man it's beautiful, maybe we should get the best cars of 180sx.co.uk and do a group photo :D
I Refuse to get a shoot done with jamie until he gets his arches rolled and flared :ghey::thumbs:
Tokyo_black
16-03-2010, 15:10
Update:
New coilpacks in = absolutely no difference (and I sheared an old bolt in my head which i've gotta work out how to remove..)
New AFM in (thanks Jamie) - overfueling is gone but missfire remains.
The 'kettle going off type whistle' is getting louder and is coming from the intake side of the engine for definate. I wonder if it's the piece of samco that connects turbo elbow to intake, i've not checked that one yet as it felt rock solid and wasn't removed with the others?
AFM wiring now seems suspect, we cut it then soldered it in preperation for a Z32 months ago, however now if I even move it, it changes the idle drastically. Looks like that needs to be redone.
F****** car :smash:
are you using a power fc?have you tried putting in a new fuel pump?fpr maybe or the hose going from the vacaum lines to the fpr could be split causing the fpr to not work correctly
redsx94!
16-03-2010, 20:29
Did you try an ignition amp yet?
now if I even move it, it changes the idle drastically.
fix that first, when you boot it the engine will rock and so will the wiring most probably the problem your having :nod:
redsx94!
16-03-2010, 20:52
Yeah but if your sitting idling and play with the wires u would notice it. If it doesn't do it idling it won't be that
Tokyo_black
16-03-2010, 21:05
The afm wires are now loose but before today they were fine so they are not the problem.
Red what is the ignition amp? Where is it located and how can I test it?
ignition amp or coil pack driver its mounted on to the passenger side front suspension turret
Tokyo_black
16-03-2010, 21:47
What does this thing look like and how do I test it?
Bit like this...
http://media.photobucket.com/image/ignition%20amplifier%20sr20det%20nissan%20180sx/windshieldwiper2009/ignitor006.jpg
redsx94!
16-03-2010, 23:02
It looks nothing like that lol. It's on the passenger side strut about level with the turbo. It's a black box with lines on it. There's a connector goes in one side and out the other. Can't miss it really.
Not sure how to test it. See if you can borrow one. S14/A also fit
so are you using a powerfc or standard ecu?have you checked the fuel pressure regulator?any breaks on the elephant trunk(pipe from the afm to the turbo) or have you checked it for leaks?
Tokyo_black
17-03-2010, 09:19
Stock ECU running custom chips.
I haven't yet checked the FPR.
The elephant trunk has been replaced by a metal item.
A tenner says it is a faulty knock sensor and the car is going on to the knock map
redsx94!
17-03-2010, 16:07
I doubt it would be that but to test it disconnect it and see if you get a smooth run
Tokyo_black
17-03-2010, 16:09
I don't think it's that, I have limp mode in different cars and it's nothing like what i'm experiencing.
It's not like a shutdown of power, it's like it's being drowned in fuel and struggling to keep up with what I want it to do.
Still sounds like a flippin air leak, back to square one.
I'm starting to wonder if the weird noise is the turbo on it's way out, theres no smoke but I think i'll start looking there next.
Morfs coming over sat, come with him and i ll have a quick look :thumbs:
redsx94!
17-03-2010, 16:34
I don't think the knock sensor does anything but give you a Reading when you have a power fc
redsx94!
17-03-2010, 16:36
Rrmember to try that ignition amp.
Tokyo_black
17-03-2010, 16:51
Morfs coming over sat, come with him and i ll have a quick look :thumbs:
Cheers mate, annoyingly i'm locked into going into london with my mum for a post mothers day thing so I can't come over with Morf :(
He mentioned you were attending his remap at sadlers so if that's cool I could bring mine down with his next wednesday but if your not going that's cool just let me know :)
I don't think the knock sensor does anything but give you a Reading when you have a power fc
yes but he is using a nissan ecu with chips
@toyko black just a suggestion about the knock sensor sure the knock map on the custom ecus could be different to standard i have a setting on my nistune that if the water temp goes over 100deg it runs like a pig so it could be some saftey feature on the chip remember the car is jap lol so it could just be some dodgy wiring.try you fpr and igniter chip then go from there
Cheers mate, annoyingly i'm locked into going into london with my mum for a post mothers day thing so I can't come over with Morf :(
He mentioned you were attending his remap at sadlers so if that's cool I could bring mine down with his next wednesday but if your not going that's cool just let me know :)
No I m deffo going down with him that's cool
Rrmember to try that ignition amp.
:nod: I'd also go with this. Not 100%, but if your having trouble finding a friendly 180, I'd take the pepsi challenge 14 ones are the same too.
Suggestion - if it still seems like a boost leak, maybe your turbo compressor housing has a leak where it clamps against the core? Justbutts had this problem recently, no pipework leaks but suffered all the characteristscs of boost leak - turbo needed to be taken apart and put back together again, PITA but worth a check!
I Refuse to get a shoot done with jamie until he gets his arches rolled and flared :ghey::thumbs:
LOL soon mate. Just need to speak to rossco again. New bumper by the end of april too.
@joe: Sorry to hear that the amf hasn't fixed it. You can keep it till you get your car sorted. :thumbs:
Tokyo_black
18-03-2010, 17:04
My work is slowing down recently so I decided to spend the whole day on the car today. I took off all the intercooler pipework, intake pipework and vacuum pipes and started from scratch with brand new jubilee clips and lots of free time.
http://www.180sx.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/contributer-3/cube3.jpg
Everything is fitting much more nicely now, I took it for a quick test drive and the overfueling has gone (still with jamie's afm), engine was smooth and when I went onto a big road I booted it through the gears, in fifth it hesitated a little but from then on it was smooth. I need to take it on a proper drive (prob the next time I goto cambs) to be sure but I think the problem has been cured. Something must not have been sitting correctly :wack:
I had some business today with Arch enemy and he very kindly removed my sheared bolt :notworthy
All in all a great day and hopefully this missfire has ****ed off for good :nod:
Whoop!!!! Glad to hear its sorted mate (on the whole). Now get out and make sure you drive it before something else goes wrong lol.
You going to any sxoc events? Weekender and such. Would be a good chance for 180sx shoot.
Tokyo_black
21-03-2010, 17:46
Haha I spoke to soon, missfire is still there - it's just moving around, 5th in WOT is still jagged and stuttery.
So i've changed :
- AFM
- Plugs
- Coilpacks
- Pipework
What's next? :wack:
Oh and i'll be down at morf's tuning session weds night so i'll see you there Ali.
Alright dude just wondering has your fuel filter been changed recently? Also check to see what sort of fuel pressure your getting. I seen some posts that you had some trouble with your fuel pumps have you gone threw a few of them? And did you have the engine out of the car at all just wondering if you fuel ines are the right way round is all?
Rubix_Cube
21-03-2010, 21:16
I would say if your getting a clean spark and a clean air, fuel is the only thing left.
redsx94!
21-03-2010, 21:29
Ignition amp!!!!!!!
Ignition amp!!!!!!!
QFT :nod:
:annoyed::annoyed: :wack:
Ignition amp!!!!!!!
yes and fpr,fuel filter,fuel pump,knock sensor,dodgy wiring it is a jap car after all ;-)
Tokyo_black
22-03-2010, 09:35
Fuel it is then, the filter hasn't been changed since i've owned it, how can you test fuel pressure without a gauge? Does the ECU record it, can I use consult to see?
Ignition amp!!!!!!!
When I dissasembled all the pipework I tried to find this and couldn't, do you have a picture of it in situ? I was looking opposite the turbo on the passenger turret :nod:
I have one spare still I think, I will have a look after work
redsx94!
22-03-2010, 10:29
On this thread you can see it on the 5th picture down. It's located directly under the standard solinoid that controls the boost. 2 10mm bolts by the looks of it holding it on with a connector going into it coming from the direction of the bulkhead and a connector comes out opposite to where it goes in.
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=148031
^^^you would be doing well to put a 10mm bolt on it its about a 4mm bolt,
redsx94!
22-03-2010, 14:23
I think it's more like 8mm. We changed one not long ago and it def wasn't 4mm lol
using a 8mm spanner doesn't make it a 8mm nut ;-)
redsx94!
22-03-2010, 17:25
What are you on about lol.
I have an ignition amp, check my
flickr to see if it is one, if so you can have it.
Www.flickr.com and search for carta or cartasil80
i dont know what tweek is talking about or what relevance it has to this thread, ive been out and checked and red is right it has 2x 8mm bolts and sits just under the green solenoid.
Red are you sure that solenoid is for boost because ive had it unplugged for some time now and all its done shut the EGR valve up from making its snorting noise
Carta your FlickR link isnt working mate.
redsx94!
22-03-2010, 18:17
Can't find it lol
redsx94!
22-03-2010, 18:19
The picture I presented was an s14 and that is what the s14 use as a boost control. On a 180sx it is a bit lower down. Should of made that a little clearer I suppose lol
one of these, he can use it if it its
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4040/4454124459_3fa454ae3b_b.jpg
redsx94!
22-03-2010, 19:18
thats the one
Tokyo_black
22-03-2010, 19:51
That sounds cool guys, Carta can I buy/borrow that off you? I guess its worth a try :nod:
You can have it Joe, I will be going down to Ali's on Saturday to get my car or meet up sooner if you need
i dont know what tweek is talking about or what relevance it has to this thread, ive been out and checked and red is right it has 2x 8mm bolts and sits just under the green solenoid.
Red are you sure that solenoid is for boost because ive had it unplugged for some time now and all its done shut the EGR valve up from making its snorting noise
Carta your FlickR link isnt working mate.
sorry lads i was referring to the card itself not the bracket my apologies
i moved mine when i fitted my top mount turbo and relocated it down near the air flow meter had to make a bracket and used the little m4 bolts on the card itself
sorry for causing all the confusion
redsx94!
22-03-2010, 23:36
No the bolts that are holding the ignition amp to the bracket are 8mm bolts. The bracket itself are more likely 10mm unless someone had put even smaller bolts in yours. If I'm right in thinking marteh is also on about the 2 bolts that hold it to the bracket. Not that it matters what holds it on
think you two are getting confused with thread diameters and head sizes. just cause a 10mm spanner fits the bolt, it does not mean its a 10mm size bolt. sizes are generally, m6, m5, m4. all with diff size bolt heads, 10 mm, 8 mm, 13 mm, etc.
hope the amp sorts it fella, it does sound like sparks blowing out at top end or high boost.
cheers neil.
redsx94!
23-03-2010, 19:58
and who the hell (apart from tweek) talks about thread diameter when you taking something off.
if your in an engine bay you dont look at a bolt and say thats a m4 bolt so it must be a 8mm head.
you say its an 8mm bolt so you know what spanner to use.
unless tweek your trying to be a smart arse at the same time as confusing someone that needs help.
Actually a 10mm head on a nissan bolt is usually an M6x1.0 thread.
GEEK
redsx94!
23-03-2010, 20:05
lol i would hate to spend a day working on a car with tweek
i knew what you meant reds lol
redsx94!
23-03-2010, 20:33
i think everyone knew what i ment lol
Tokyo_black
24-03-2010, 23:52
Hey guys.
I went to the dyno today: http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?p=5226943#post5226943
It looks like the problem is my fuel pump is only getting 10V, which is not supplying enough fuel to my injectors which is causing my engine to run lean, causing det which my knock is detecting and retarding the ignition.
This was all confirmed on the dyno map :eek:
At the weekend i'm going to get a mate to assist me in running a new live from the ignition directly to the fuel pump.
Steve Sadler said I had been trés lucky in not blowing up the engine as my AFR was crazy lean..
redsx94!
25-03-2010, 01:02
That's awsome. At least you found it. Fingers crossed that will fix it
Hey guys.
I went to the dyno today: http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?p=5226943#post5226943
It looks like the problem is my fuel pump is only getting 10V, which is not supplying enough fuel to my injectors which is causing my engine to run lean, causing det which my knock is detecting and retarding the ignition.
This was all confirmed on the dyno map :eek:
At the weekend i'm going to get a mate to assist me in running a new live from the ignition directly to the fuel pump.
Steve Sadler said I had been trés lucky in not blowing up the engine as my AFR was crazy lean..
nice to see you got to the route of the problem dodgy nissan wiring strikes again lol.
would you not run a feed direct from the battery (with a fuse on it before red has a go ;-) ) to a relay and use the supply to the pump to switch on and off the relay??real handy if the battery is in the boot as only short little run is needed about one or two feet of cable tops make sure to put the fuse as close to the battery as possible cause if the cable damaged before the fuse there is a possiblity the fuse won't pop and could cause an electrical fire.
Tokyo_black
28-03-2010, 19:38
Well the problem is finally solved, my mate ran a brand new wire from the ignition straight to the fuel pump and it's behaving perfectly. Boost is lovely and smooth and i'm a happy bunny :)
lovely stuff that solves the problem with all the dying fuel pumps aswell.
made up for you mate, but i would think about doing a proper, permanent job, seeing as your cars wiring is somewhat suspect lol.
do you think all them pumps were dodgy then? or was it just the wiring playing up?
cheers neil.
redsx94!
28-03-2010, 21:03
Glad to hear it joe
Tokyo_black
29-03-2010, 09:30
I think the wire or the plug was just knackered, it would read consistantly low voltage and I reckon over prolonged exposure to this the fuel pumps just crap out. Either way i'll let you guys know if there are any updates on this situation, hopefully everything will stay as is :wack:
what kinda voltage should be geting to the pump?
Tokyo_black
29-03-2010, 10:17
Very close to your battery reading apparently, mine was showing 6-10v and that was causing my troubles.
monsterer
14-04-2010, 14:17
Is this problem related to that variable resister thing which drops the fuel-pump voltage under low-load to reduce the noise?
Someone posted about this a long time ago but i can't find the thread....
Tokyo_black
14-04-2010, 18:06
Nah dude just a knackered old wire.
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