PDA

View Full Version : Project quick derust and protect.



Petrol
19-08-2009, 22:34
I don’t know where to put this thread so feel free to move it if you need to mods.

I have shown how to do a decent refurb with S13, then went on to do the full monte with the S14. This micro project however is completely different. It’s more of a “I don’t want to be messing about welding it in a couple of years time” approach.

It’s a 10 year old Almera – about as boring as it gets car wise but it’s been reliable. I did think about replacing it. The trouble is, I could spend 2 or 3 grand on another run-around that could cost quite a bit in parts if things go wrong. The other thing is, I can park this old shed up and not worry about (more) dents in panels. So the plan is to keep it and save a few quid.


Might be worth reading this thread first about POR 15.

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=413441

Decided to stick with stuff I know.

First job is to jack it up, the higher the better. I don’t intend to remove anything – not even the wheels :wack:


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/001.jpg

The usual Nissan areas. I’m not surprised though as the floorpan and protection is the same as on the S13 & S14. This is the sill just in front of the rear wheel

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/002.jpg

It's a lot worse than my S14 was

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/003.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/004.jpg

Chriscooke
19-08-2009, 22:38
I don’t intend to remove anything – not even the wheels :wack:

We will see:D

Alex
19-08-2009, 22:42
Am i going mad, or are you propping your car up with pieces of foam?



Edit: Oh and just leave it alone, its a fcuking Almera :smash: :D

xiodene
19-08-2009, 22:50
I imagine the foam i there to keep the sun from getting in the picture so we can see the rust:nod:

VIDAL BABBOON
19-08-2009, 22:56
Im hoping that this little project will be more up my street lol

Im after giving the 200 some love this winter :)

Petrol
19-08-2009, 23:16
We will see:D
You certainly will :D;)





Edit: Oh and just leave it alone, its a fcuking Almera :smash: :D

I know it’s a “fcuking Almera” – I drive it… so have you a cheaper option for me? I doubt it….

Foam was to take the pics :thumbs:

It's horses for courses. This will be a cheap fettle up to make it last a few more years :thumbs:

stu_
19-08-2009, 23:19
It’s more of a “I don’t want to be messing about welding it in a couple of years time” approach.
Perfect, looking forward to this one too :thumbs:

Petrol
19-08-2009, 23:33
I get a lot of PM's about refurbing. Might be an idea to use this thread for Q and A :thumbs:

Hallsy
20-08-2009, 14:24
Pete, you mention wanting to use POR15 to keep the rust at bay, but back when you were doing your S13, and maybe the 14a, weren't you using that De-ox C stuff to convert it, before treating with zinc primers, stone chip, etc?

I have some minor rust patches on my the rear arches of my 850 that I'd rather not weld if I can help it, so was hoping to grind back, use a decent (i.e. Petrol approved ;) ) rust killer/converter, overcoat with a decent etch primer, then topcoat & lacquer.

VIDAL BABBOON
20-08-2009, 17:16
Pete, you mention wanting to use POR15 to keep the rust at bay, but back when you were doing your S13, and maybe the 14a, weren't you using that De-ox C stuff to convert it, before treating with zinc primers, stone chip, etc?

I have some minor rust patches on my the rear arches of my 850 that I'd rather not weld if I can help it, so was hoping to grind back, use a decent (i.e. Petrol approved ;) ) rust killer/converter, overcoat with a decent etch primer, then topcoat & lacquer.

This is what i need information on too :nod:

Need to know what the "Petrol approved" list of products would be and it would be handy to know where to get them from online as going to the shops is never easy for me lol

Petrol
20-08-2009, 21:56
Pete, you mention wanting to use POR15 to keep the rust at bay, but back when you were doing your S13, and maybe the 14a, weren't you using that De-ox C stuff to convert it, before treating with zinc primers, stone chip, etc?

I have some minor rust patches on my the rear arches of my 850 that I'd rather not weld if I can help it, so was hoping to grind back, use a decent (i.e. Petrol approved ;) ) rust killer/converter, overcoat with a decent etch primer, then topcoat & lacquer.

I did, but it’s horses for courses. I’m only trying to make this car last a bit longer. It’s not worth using deox on it to be honest.




This is what i need information on too :nod:

Need to know what the "Petrol approved" list of products would be and it would be handy to know where to get them from online as going to the shops is never easy for me lol


I won’t know for some time if the Kurust / Electrox combo works. The theory is that the Kurust will convert the rust and the Electrox will cover any parts I have missed or rust starts to come through. One problem however could be the fact that Electrox requires a good electrical contact to the metal. Since it’s on top of the kurust, I doubt I will have achieved that.


I power washed as much crap and rust off as I could.

NOTE - Goggles required for this!

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/005.jpg

Then dried it off with an airline. Got quite a bit of loose paint and rust off

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/006.jpg

I only used these 2 wire brushes to remove the loose rust

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/007.jpg

I didn't get all the rust out

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/008.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/009.jpg

Painted the Kurust on and it went black

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/010.jpg

Then brush coated the Electrox on - 2 coats.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/011.jpg

Might leave it like that for a while to see if it’s worked. I can’t see the point in covering it with stonechip as it would just hide any problems

SM
20-08-2009, 23:21
My God even the shed nissan's getting a makeover......

mercedessx
20-08-2009, 23:54
hi petrol , feel free to have a go at my car some time

wokeye
21-08-2009, 08:52
I would of just sprayed it with waxoyl to try and slow it down a bit. Then again I am quite lazy :o

VIDAL BABBOON
21-08-2009, 16:57
I will wait until you cast your verdict then Petrol :) im in no rush lol it's going to be a hated job but needs to be done :nod:

Django67
21-08-2009, 17:27
Excellent thread - I've been a bit intimidated by the hardcore refurb threads on here. This is more on a scale that I can cope with. :)

Mario
21-08-2009, 22:10
I get a lot of PM's about refurbing. Might be an idea to use this thread for Q and A :thumbs:

Hi Petrol.

I am trying to source the various products I need to start tackling rust on my car.

Where can I get 2K Epoxy Paint from? And can these be mixed in any colour (ie using paint codes)?

Thanks.

superbad
23-08-2009, 08:49
My God even the shed nissan's getting a makeover......

It was only a matter of time. :D

PGD
26-08-2009, 16:56
Interested to see how you get on with the kurust :nod:. I'd like to do the same to our Ford and the Deox is a little messy and time consuming, a problem when the car needs to be used daily.


So whens the suspension, tank, brakes coming off this one :wack:

Petrol
18-09-2009, 21:44
I would of just sprayed it with waxoyl to try and slow it down a bit. Then again I am quite lazy :o

I would rather just leave it rusty than spray waxoyl on. I did some tests a while back and it accelerated the rust. I had ¾ of a gallon of it in the shed and I tipped it. Its absolutely useless.


Hi Petrol.

I am trying to source the various products I need to start tackling rust on my car.

Where can I get 2K Epoxy Paint from? And can these be mixed in any colour (ie using paint codes)?

Thanks.

This stuff is pretty good. Don't know if you can get a colour match though

http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic.cfm


It’s been left a month to see what happened. Gave it a quick wipe with some pre clean and it seems to look OK. Theres a couple of very slight brown stains but its good enough to last quite a bit longer

OS

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/012.jpg

NS


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/013.jpg

Brush painting the stonechip on

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/014.jpg

1 coat is enough on this. No point putting loads on, if it starts corroding behind a load of thick stonechip, I wont know about it

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/015.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/016.jpg

I don't care what it looks like, just want it to last a bit longer

As for the rest of it

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/017.jpg

I have decided to spray dynax straight onto the rust.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/018.jpg

I have a great deal of faith in bilt hamber stuff. I reckon, since dynax it’s so searching, it will penetrate to good steel, eliminate oxygen and stop it getting any worse. This brake pipe will be a good test.

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/019.jpg

When the factory applied electrocoat sacrifices itself it goes white. Not much protection left on this then :wack: It will be a good test of electrox :thumbs:

Petrol
26-09-2009, 16:47
2 coats of Dynax straight over the rust

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/027.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/020.jpg

Rear 1/4

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/021.jpg

Loads on the brake pipes

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/022.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/023.jpg

Sprayed a bit on the rear arches

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/024.jpg

Lashed it everywhere, even over the stonechip

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/025.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Almera/Almera_SX_Pics/026.jpg

1 can did the whole back end. It will be interesting to see what it's like after the salt's been at it :nod:

DocTim
03-10-2009, 23:08
Petrol,

Does dynax 'dry' or is it a sticky goo?

And just wondering - have you tried Bilt Hamber's Hydrate 80 instead of Kurust?

Petrol
04-10-2009, 21:30
Dynax is a sticky goo. The main problem using sticky gooey stuff is road salt can stick to it. Thats why I stonechipped the sill areas which are in the direct firing line of spray from the wheels.

Strictly speaking, Dynax is a box section wax but I am only looking to make it last a bit longer - To save me welding the sills up and replacing the brake pipes. It's also the ultimate test for Dynax - we will know if it has worked after winter :) I'm pretty confident though ;)

I wish I had used Hamber's Hydrate 80 as again, it would have been a good test :nod:

DocTim
05-10-2009, 21:55
Dynax is a sticky goo

The MoT tester will love you, next time the test is due :D

NickM
28-10-2009, 15:34
Notice you've used 3M 08861 which 3M describe as a 'body schutz' - do you prefer it to their true stonechips? Does it dry or stay slightly gooey?

Quail
28-10-2009, 15:40
Watching this with interest. The underside of my car has become a lot more rusty since bringing it to Portsmouth one winter and leaving it to rot on the drive :cry:

SidewaysThough
28-10-2009, 15:46
Watching this with interest. The underside of my car has become a lot more rusty since bringing it to Portsmouth one winter and leaving it to rot on the drive :cry:

Isnt the sea a wonderful thing, u were a stones throw away too

Lord Clive
28-10-2009, 19:22
Isnt the sea a wonderful thing, u were a stones throw away too

the sea is at the end of my road:cry:

like 100 metres.... i seriously need to get under my s14 to so something like this. its not too bad under there... i just want to preserve...

bolf
28-10-2009, 21:55
I agree dude , you should do a FAQ for the members sec.

Petrol
31-10-2009, 21:07
Notice you've used 3M 08861 which 3M describe as a 'body schutz' - do you prefer it to their true stonechips? Does it dry or stay slightly gooey?

True stonechips tend to out perform body shutz products. All stonechip / shutz products dry but remain very slightly flexible.

One of the advantages of using stonechip is that it can be over painted, this is useful on areas like the lower part of the sills.

On this car though, anything will do to make it last a bit longer. I used products I had lying around. It's not worth throwing money at it :D

Petrol
30-06-2010, 23:17
Update! It was a bitter winter and I thought it might of deteriorated quite a bit with all the salt on the roads. It passed it's MOT recently though and I had a look under the back of it: nod: The Dynax has done it's job good and proper :thumbs:

Rude Dog
02-07-2010, 13:17
So doing it the way you did here how long do you expect the remedial work to last/keep working?

EMENEAR
02-07-2010, 13:39
as your happy to do a Q&A, can the electrox be put onto rusty metal thats had the flakes brushed off. Its product description is a bit vague on this........

Thanks

Ed

NismoNut
02-07-2010, 19:45
Iv had two N15 Almeras and believe me its worth doing what your doing..............they hav a habit of going flakey

Petrol
02-07-2010, 22:22
So doing it the way you did here how long do you expect the remedial work to last/keep working?

I think if the Dynax was re applied every couple of years it would last for many years. Strictly speaking Dynax is a box section wax and subsequently offers little in the way of mechanical protection. Eventually it will be worn away.


as your happy to do a Q&A, can the electrox be put onto rusty metal thats had the flakes brushed off. Its product description is a bit vague on this........

Thanks

Ed

I don’t think that’s the way to go to be honest. It would be better to remove the flaky stuff and apply a rust converter before applying primer.


Iv had two N15 Almeras and believe me its worth doing what your doing..............they hav a habit of going flakey

I decided it was time to replace this Almera with a newer one. I looked at about 10 cars from 2001 to 2004 and I was disappointed in the condition of them underneath. So I have bought a 02 Peugeot 206 as they seem to be better protected. I’ll lash some Dynax underneath it though :nod:

EMENEAR
05-07-2010, 12:49
I did some work at the weekend. I scrubbed the areas down, deoxed and cleaned and slapped on electrox. the area where the rust was was black pitting prior to appllying primer. Not full rust removal but all the flakes and loose metal were removed.

Bilt Hamber say:
Electrox can be used to protect rusted, wire-brushed substrate – remove all loose flaky corrosion deposits. All surfaces must be free of grease, oil and millscale

Hopefully I should be ok on the small bits I didnt deox!!