View Full Version : Polo's Drift project
Yes i know we have all seen loads of these but hopefully i am going to be doing a few differant things and showing cheaper and easyer ways to do so.
Im going to be doing evry thig my self apart from the mechining and balencing.
The other night i picked up the donor engine(thanks Matt) all i got told is that it had no compression on cylinder number one. so i got it back to the workshop at 11:15pm thursday night, me being me couldnt wait to see what the cause of no compresion, so i quickly pulled the head off to find this
39943
39944
I dont think that bit of the valve liked it inside the engine:D to my surprise there is no damage to the bore lining on number one, it must have boloxed the tubby if it went out as one bit. iv had engines apart befor when its droped the hole head of a valve, That was messy!!
I havent got the sump oof yet to inspect the bottom end but there isnt excesive play in the pistons and you can still see the original bore grinding marks(dont know the milage) and the is slight damage to the lining on cylinder 3 i think this is where it droped a plug at one point but this does not matter as im going over size.
some more pics
39945
39946
39947
Loads more to follow. should have it down to the block and off for mechining by the end of next week:nod:
yey, this is going into my favs. can you make the pics a bit bigger :)
yey, this is going into my favs. can you make the pics a bit bigger :)
click on them:thumbs: if you cant you need to be a member, or find some one to photobucket them as im having problems with it at the mo.
Will be interesting to see your methods :nod:
i know clicking on them works, just wanted to be able tyo read through easily, never mind, good luck mate :)
crazyshad1
26-11-2006, 21:06
cool!
full list of cost will be nice, hopefully will doing the same soon.
very interesting, im subscribed:nod:
cool!
full list of cost will be nice, hopefully will doing the same soon.
Cost is all dependant on the level of rebuild :nod: for a basic rebuild which is bottom end bearings, all gaskets, new rings, new oil pump gears and chain set your looking around £1k including machining (bore hone, crank lap and flywheel and head skimmed)
If you replace the pistons, rods or valvetrain your looking at much more :nod:
Cost is all dependant on the level of rebuild :nod: for a basic rebuild which is bottom end bearings, all gaskets, new rings, new oil pump gears and chain set your looking around £1k including machining (bore hone, crank lap and flywheel and head skimmed)
If you replace the pistons, rods or valvetrain your looking at much more :nod:
do you need to uprate the valvetrain if your sticking to standard rpm, im thinking of 3 angle seat cut and maybe new guides
No not really, you can go for step 1 cams but i wouldnt bother changing the springs until you went for anything wilder or a rev limit of over 7k IMO
what should you reinforce if going to say 7800 rpm??
No not really, you can go for step 1 cams but i wouldnt bother changing the springs until you went for anything wilder or a rev limit of over 7k IMO
a big warning to anyone doing a rebuilt head i think getting the shimming right is one of the most important things or else you get uneven loading on the followers giving at the best uneven cam wear at worst broken followers
your going to need double valve springs and probably some solid tappets. Not 100% on the tappets as i have never really looked into it. Papa or Ben would probably have a better idea :nod:
Oh and rocker arm stoppers
already got rocker arm stoppers. dont know why was an impulse buy, no point really fitting them to an internally standard engine.
No not really, you can go for step 1 cams but i wouldnt bother changing the springs until you went for anything wilder or a rev limit of over 7k IMO
I would uprate the springs for sure, stock springs will be getting tired and liable to bounce, causing missfire. Im not the only one to suffer this with "step 1" cams!
I would uprate the springs for sure, stock springs will be getting tired and liable to bounce, causing missfire. Im not the only one to suffer this with "step 1" cams!
Is this down to the springs themselves or just when they get worn at a certain mileage?
I think my springs are shagged as the power drops off rapidly after 6k but it doesnt bother me as i prefer using the midrange than reving the tits off it :nod:
Is this down to the springs themselves or just when they get worn at a certain mileage?
I think my springs are shagged as the power drops off rapidly after 6k but it doesnt bother me as i prefer using the midrange than reving the tits off it :nod:
You would notice a missfire if your springs werent in the best order. Its either age, or the spring itself causing the issue, but there are more and more cars doing this after a cam swap.
I guess if the spring has been used for xxxxx miles being compressed the same amount millions of times, if you suddenly start compressing it more it will quickly fail or cause problems :confused: Would be interesting to see if new standard springs cause the same issue :nod:
Cost is all dependant on the level of rebuild :nod: for a basic rebuild which is bottom end bearings, all gaskets, new rings, new oil pump gears and chain set your looking around £1k including machining (bore hone, crank lap and flywheel and head skimmed)
If you replace the pistons, rods or valvetrain your looking at much more :nod:
:no: this hole build is going to come in to me at around £1000-£1200 i hope!
thats rods, pistons, arp fixings, hg, oil pump rotors, balencing, mechining etc etc.:D
:no: this hole build is going to come in to me at around £1000-£1200 i hope!
thats rods, pistons, arp fixings, hg, oil pump rotors, balencing, mechining etc etc.:D
Dream on :wack:
Paul full list of costs and parts fitted would be nice also supplier if they are of much cheapness.
But good luck with you 2k budget, as I am budgeting 1K just for the head alone on my rebuild and 3-4K for the block / bottom end.
what rods and pistons you using paul. as that cost doesnt seem high enough
Nice dish in your pistons you lucky bastard:D :D :wack: :wack: :annoyed:
Good luck.:)
Paul full list of costs and parts fitted would be nice also supplier if they are of much cheapness.
But good luck with you 2k budget, as I am budgeting 1K just for the head alone on my rebuild and 3-4K for the block / bottom end.
Iv got it jotted down at work, ill add all the costs soon:thumbs: my budget isnt 2k its £1200ish.
Pistons and rods make can be seen in pics on 1st post:nod:
well thats about £600 for a start unless you know a seriously cheap supplier.
well thats about £600 for a start unless you know a seriously cheap supplier.
you can get them as a kit from the usa for around £400 delivered:nod: im allowing 2.5k to do mine with valve guides springs and cams forgies rods full ballance and so on
well thats about £600 for a start unless you know a seriously cheap supplier.
£430:D
Well if you get the chain set from Nissan your looking at another £300 :nod: £200 for a metal HG, £130 for a full gasket set, £100 for bearings it soon all adds up :nod:
jrtuning
27-11-2006, 20:03
you can get a cometic metal HG for over half that :nod:
but yes the cost do quickly add up, to a lot :eek:
Well if you get the chain set from Nissan your looking at another £300 :nod: £200 for a metal HG, £130 for a full gasket set, £100 for bearings it soon all adds up :nod:
halve at least them prices if you get them from the usa, gaskets a 1/3 and all from a nissan dealer:nod: even factoring in getting hit with tax its a massive saving, and yes i have imported thousands of pounds of gear for this and my other hobby
Well if you get the chain set from Nissan your looking at another £300 :nod: £200 for a metal HG, £130 for a full gasket set, £100 for bearings it soon all adds up :nod:
Trust me iv done my maths and reserch, im not rong on this:D it will come in on budget:thumbs:
here is a pic what i wanted to put in the 1st post but couldnt find it. this is what hapens if a valve head brakes off and you keep using it!!!:eek:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/mycarpics013.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/mycarpics014.jpg
jesus christ. that piston is slightly holed. when you do the full bebuild, fancy giving me a pm of the parts you have used, where you got them, and how much.
p.s. still got the plenum and t/b when your ready
A valve didnt do that, it got fooking hot :nod: thats actually melted :eek:
A valve didnt do that, it got fooking hot :nod: thats actually melted :eek:
i would have thought piston first then valve, massive det, could it be a bad injector not flowing properly as the other pistons seem ok
Both very rong. That was a 4.2ltr jaguar xk engine on two SU carbs, its a road car, the valve seized in the guide and the piston hit it and broke the head off then broke the other one off and the bounced around and done that! there is no melting there what so ever just battering of the piston! iv still got both parts of the valves, i kept as they are so baterd:eek: when i took off the inlet manny and exhaust manny they wer both full of tiny bits if piston. its hard to see as its a crap picture but trust me i striped the engine i should know and i know those engine like the back of my hand, they dont melt. + if it was melted the top would be dull and black but it has made it shiny and you can see if you look load of little dent marks evry where and the top of the rod is shiny where it has been batterd.
haahh i did that aswell
http://www.am-ant.net/e30-335/Image053.jpg
http://www.am-ant.net/e30-335/Image054.jpg
http://www.am-ant.net/e30-335/Image055.jpg
you can see the valve sitting in the hole it battered in the piston, the gudgeon pin can be seen in there aswell :) and it snapped 4 head bolts doing that aswell
Dream on :wack:
Seconded! Bloody expensive! My bank manager still hasn't forgiven me!:annoyed:
Can you PM me your contact for OE parts please :)
Kamatayan
28-11-2006, 12:42
^^ Same here i would like to get some parts also. Group buy anyone??
The trouble Im having is making sure that they are for the a) for the RWD SR20DET for the S14 and b) not the S13 SR or SR20DE :wack:
Nobody seems to want to give over the part numbers to me :(
Whats with all this secret bloody service on here, if someone has a contact for cheap OE parts just post it up FFS :annoyed: This is supposed to be an owners club where we all help each other out :confused:
Post it in members if you dont want the freeloaders to see it :wack:
Seconded. Share and share alike. I thought i was in a room with IT contractors and IT permies there with no-one sharing information.
Good thread though.
cheapest I have found a sr rebuild gasket kit for is this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-SR20DET-S14-S15-Engine-Rebuild-Gasket-Kit-OEM_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33667QQihZ008QQitem Z180002307399QQtcZphoto
BNEcustoms on ebay guy is really good as well.
Mark, can you post up the places you had good and bad experience with then please? i.e the places that sent you the DE chain etc.
I dont see the point in posting up links if they arent proven.
Sure, Im getting soem good prices, but they wont confirm part numbers (even though they have 100% feedback on ebay and seem to know what theyre doing). :wack:
Courtesy dont do shit for the S14 SR apart from a few gaskets and the water pump. Ive emailed Enjuku Racing as they seem cheap too on first glance.
cheapest I have found a sr rebuild gasket kit for is this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-SR20DET-S14-S15-Engine-Rebuild-Gasket-Kit-OEM_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33667QQihZ008QQitem Z180002307399QQtcZphoto
BNEcustoms on ebay guy is really good as well.
Yeah I mailed them too. Askign for part numbers and what I needed. All I got back was 'Sorry. We do not give out part #s.'
:wack:
No price, no delivery charge.... FFS!!!
I'll ask him as he has been sound with me in the past Matt, and I think buffy has used him a few times for RB stuff.
email'd him now. so should get a response tonight.
I ended up using all OE parts from the main dealers as when I did mine there was fook all for the SR20DET as 200's hadnt gone all drifty and popular :wack:
The chain set and gasket kit i got that was useless was from Pistons and Components in Scotland (Mad K on here) it was all DE stuff, the only gasket i could use was for the pick up pipe in the sump :wack: I believe the chainset was from an American supplier of his.
So in the end I got the following from Nissan (most of it via SRB)
Chain £100
Tensioner £50
Tensioner arm £95
Guide £35
Rotor set £55
Full gasket kit £130
Bearings (ACL's) and head bolts came from Piston & Components too but these where correct for the DET :thumbs:
Think thats it, I should have the chainset laying around somewhere but fook knows where it is :wack: It came with plain sprockets and i was going to use them to get rid of the VVT but I was advised against it as you loose a large chunk of mid range :)
Mark the full gasket set that include head gasket? coz £130 from main dealer seems okay to me for UK Nissan dealer prices.
yer includes a head gasket :nod:
There arent many gaskets on a DET most of its silicon :nod:
ah the gold plate Nissan stuff at £30 a tube, apparently it is the best gasket paste according to a few engine builders I know
In all fairness, I think the FULL ENGINE REPAIR gasket kit is a bargain, when you consider that ou get all the turbo gaskets/seal/copper washers with it and if you buy them 'as a kit' they set you back about £70. :eek:
Right I am off to hunt for decent priced bits for my rebuild.
ah the gold plate Nissan stuff at £30 a tube, apparently it is the best gasket paste according to a few engine builders I know
didnt use it, used the Ford stuff instead as it was considerably cheaper ;)
found this for the timing chain, has part numbers but the sprockets look wrong to me. Haven't got fast at work so will check when I get home tonight.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-Timing-Chain-Kit-For-SR20DET-Engine-S13-S14-S15_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQihZ001QQitem Z110051466930QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V
Right, this is one guy who has a good rep and 'seemed' to know what he was on about. He said they dont have part numbers - only 'their' part numbers - the shipping guys have the Nissan part numbers. I supplied him with numbers form my copy of FASt and he said they were out of date.
But anyway, the prices look good.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSAN-240SX-S14-SR20DET-JDM-OEM-OIL-PUMP-FRONT-COVER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6778QQihZ001QQite mZ110046921719QQtcZphoto
"Those are some old part numbers some of which has superceded to another newer part numbers.
Full gasket kit for all S14 blacktops are $204 Oilpumps for S14 $194, oil pump rotor? thats part of the front cover you were about to order.
Water pump S14, $65
Thermostat, 2 choices Nismo high performance unit for $58 or a stock one $22
Shipping is $75.70 for USPS EMS express shipping. "
What do ya reckon?
Email from Enjuku just in:
Matt,
Oil pump/cover $239.99
Water pump $99.99
Full engine rebuild kit $299.99
Thermostat OEM $29.99 Nismo is unavailable at the moment Timing Chain $89.99 Chain Guides $114.99 Chain Tensioner $79.99
Needs postal code to quote on shipping
matt what do you think about the timing chain one I found above I don't have fast handy so can't check the numbers
matt what do you think about the timing chain one I found above I don't have fast handy so can't check the numbers
Its the same one i got and is utter pish :rant: The Americans seem to think you can use DE stuff on the DET and so market it all wrong :rolleyes:
My copy of FAST says 13028-53J03
It doesnt look like any of those parts are the same as on my FAST
Well that is completely useful then isn't it. Right I'll speak to bnecustoms and see if they can price up a kit with the correct part numbers (I will supply them tonight) and see how they come up.
Ive asked PerformanceNissanParts for a quote for some more stuff and also quantities up to 5 of each...
Cool, if it works out good I defo will be up for getting the standard bits for my rebuild.
Whats with all this secret bloody service on here, if someone has a contact for cheap OE parts just post it up FFS :annoyed: This is supposed to be an owners club where we all help each other out :confused:
Post it in members if you dont want the freeloaders to see it :wack:
its no secret as a link is already been post here some where and not all of us live on the web some of us work out side of IT:rolleyes:
Courtesy dont do shit for the S14 SR apart from a few gaskets and the water pump.
they do loads, full chain kit $300 cam followers for $25 each and as a nissan dealer they can get anything also they export loads to the uk
they do loads, full chain kit $300 cam followers for $25 each and as a nissan dealer they can get anything also they export loads to the uk
Well, Im soooooooooo sorry, Imonly telling you what they told me.
Here's the email I recieved this morning...
"Dear Matt,
Everything we carry for the SR is available on our site here http://www.courtesyparts.com/sr20det/sr20det_engine.html
you can add things to the basket and check shipping online as well"
You click the link. There's more in my shed :wack:
its no secret as a link is already been post here some where and not all of us live on the web some of us work out side of IT:rolleyes:
I dont work in IT :confused: I play with engines all day :thumbs:
Just seemed to be loads of people saying 'pm me your contact for cheap parts' :confused:
Right. It turns out Courtesy dont know what they sell :wack:
Ive had another look and you can in fact get more than I was informed of :wack:
For example:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=S14-SR20TCKITB
Right. It turns out Courtesy dont know what they sell :wack:
Ive had another look and you can in fact get more than I was informed of :wack:
For example:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=S14-SR20TCKITB
Ok a few things wrong with that
1) there is no camshaft oil seal on the SR20 :wack:
2) it lists upper and lower guides, there are in fact 3 guides, the tensioner arm, the slack side guide and the top guide. The slack side guide uses 2 bolts and the tensioner arm 1 plus 2 bolts for the top guide.
I would require pictures of the kit before i considered buying it :nod:
this is cheap and from a nissan dealer
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=SR20-IM
Well, Im soooooooooo sorry, Imonly telling you what they told me.
Here's the email I recieved this morning...
"Dear Matt,
Everything we carry for the SR is available on our site here http://www.courtesyparts.com/sr20det/sr20det_engine.html
you can add things to the basket and check shipping online as well"
You click the link. There's more in my shed :wack:
its all the parts i would want from nissan, followers, chain kit, gaskets, seals every thing else is better from else where, pistons, rods, head gasket, valve springs ...........................:)
this is cheap and from a nissan dealer
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=SR20-IM
Looks like thats for a red top, could be wrong
Hybrid S14
28-11-2006, 17:18
that engine had done 80k
matt
Ok a few things wrong with that
1) there is no camshaft oil seal on the SR20 :wack:
2) it lists upper and lower guides, there are in fact 3 guides, the tensioner arm, the slack side guide and the top guide. The slack side guide uses 2 bolts and the tensioner arm 1 plus 2 bolts for the top guide.
I would require pictures of the kit before i considered buying it :nod:
do you normally get a water pump with the chain kit as with theres you do:confused:
Looks like thats for a red top, could be wrong
no idea, also i need to get nissan part numbers for the bits i need then go from there
do you normally get a water pump with the chain kit as with theres you do:confused:
Not really especially as its chain driven and the pumps off a belt :wack:
I think that kits a fook up as it sounds more like a timing belt make up :nod:
Not really especially as its chain driven and the pumps off a belt :wack:
I think that kits a fook up as it sounds more like a timing belt make up :nod:
i know some one on this site that got a load of parts off them so will give him a pm
i know some one on this site that got a load of parts off them so will give him a pm
PMSL. Im off to do a search for 'SR20 with CA18 head!!! :wack:
:D:D:D:D
Hybrid S14
28-11-2006, 18:13
oh and im still usin the 'tubby' on my red top, and it seems ok, so fook know where that bit of valve went.
matt
Ok, here is todays progress. I thoght id post up now befor you lot totaly take over this thread:wack: :D
Today i stayed behind at work and got the bottom end totaly stripped, apart from a few dowls and oil jets, it only took me 1hr 20mins:D
Its a pain in the but thogh doing it in the workshop!!! my engine build room is stacked out at the mo with paying customers engines:nod: so no room for the sr even thogh it is tiny compared to the ones in there!
I was very pleased to find that all the bearings are in very good knick:nod:
there was however a fair bit of crap in the sump:confused:
The thing i did find which is a bit of an issue is, when i pulled the front cover and oil pump assembly off this fell out!
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys218.jpg
Its come off the pump housing, looks like the chain has come in contact with it!:eek: i have not yet inspected it fully and am not sure of its purpose yet, i hope i can get away with it or that will do the budget:cry:
here are some more pics, sorry about the darknes, bloody dingy workshop!
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys217.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys216.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys215.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys214.jpg
Hybrid S14
01-12-2006, 18:36
found out if you'vr blown the budget yet?
found out if you'vr blown the budget yet?
I dont know yet:confused: iv not had time to think about it! mad at work!
Iv been talking to the guy who does the balencing and im going to get the hole engine balenced as one rotating mass;) not just do the crank and, pulley and fly. put the engine together, rods, pistons and balence it in the block, im not 100% sure how they do it but for the money it had better be good!! befor any one says, this is not included in the budget as its going down with a load of customers engines,wink, wink, hush, hush:D
but its all got to be mechined befor that.
200krisx
01-12-2006, 20:16
I dont know yet:confused: iv not had time to think about it! mad at work!
Iv been talking to the guy who does the balencing and im going to get the hole engine balenced as one rotating mass;) not just do the crank and, pulley and fly. put the engine together, rods, pistons and balence it in the block, im not 100% sure how they do it but for the money it had better be good!! befor any one says, this is not included in the budget as its going down with a load of customers engines,wink, wink, hush, hush:D
but its all got to be mechined befor that.
Where do you work? :wack:
Black and white engines, in westcott, we build and develop race cars.:D
thats my kind of dream job :(:(:( lucky git :thumbs:
well i now have part of my shopping list sorted
Brian Crower 256 Cams are $285.75 for the pair. Valve Guides, $80 for intake and exhaust.
nissan Valve Seals are $60 Brian Crower springs, and titanium retainers $228.20 nissan rockers $234.16
ARP Head Studs are $162.16
ARP Main Studs are $116.67
CP Pistons 87.0mm Nissan SR20DET 8.5:1 Compression $558.60
any thoughts:)
Brian Crower 256 Cams are $285.75 for the pair. Valve Guides, $80 for intake and exhaust.
nissan Valve Seals are $60 Brian Crower springs, and titanium retainers $228.20 nissan rockers $234.16
ARP Head Studs are $162.16
ARP Main Studs are $116.67
CP Pistons 87.0mm Nissan SR20DET 8.5:1 Compression $558.60
Hi mate,
Are your guides actually worn? On my 101k engine they were perfect, as were the rockers etc. And why the retainers, what revs are you planning on running?
ARP stuff is a good shout.:nod:
Hi mate,
Are your guides actually worn? On my 101k engine they were perfect, as were the rockers etc. And why the retainers, what revs are you planning on running?
ARP stuff is a good shout.:nod:
having some head work done that involves removing the valve guides and i am building for high power later on but keep it at 400 bhp untill i get a bigger turbo
the arp main studs need work to fit the rwd engine, you need to either mill a cutout int he bottom oil pan or machine down 2 of the studs so it can bolt down, if you dont you crack the oil pan in half when you bolt it up
the arp main studs need work to fit the rwd engine, you need to either mill a cutout int he bottom oil pan or machine down 2 of the studs so it can bolt down, if you dont you crack the oil pan in half when you bolt it up
:thumbs:
Actual_Ben_Taylor
07-12-2006, 15:57
well i now have part of my shopping list sorted
Brian Crower 256 Cams are $285.75 for the pair. Valve Guides, $80 for intake and exhaust.
nissan Valve Seals are $60 Brian Crower springs, and titanium retainers $228.20 nissan rockers $234.16
ARP Head Studs are $162.16
ARP Main Studs are $116.67
CP Pistons 87.0mm Nissan SR20DET 8.5:1 Compression $558.60
any thoughts:)
You sure the Brian Crower cams work with VVT or are you getting rid of it?
You sure the Brian Crower cams work with VVT or are you getting rid of it?
Part #: BC0205
CAMSHAFTS (pair) - STAGE 2 (Nissan SR20DE - VTC Int cam [S14/S15] standard Exh cam)
listed as 262 though and not 256:confused:
Placing this order soon, pistons are down $60:D [loads of questions by me and i think they want a sale
Part #:BC0205 CAMSHAFTS (pair) - STAGE 2 (Nissan SR20DE - VTC Int
cam [S14/S15] standard Exh cam) $285.75
Valve Guides, $80 for intake and exhaust.
Valve Seals are $60 for intake and exhaust
springs, and titanium retainers $228.20.[possible coil bind issues with OEM spring]
The rockers are $234.16
ARP Head Studs are $162.16
ARP Main Studs are $116.67
CP Pistons 87.0mm Nissan SR20DET 8.5:1 Compression $499
mike_s14
09-12-2006, 09:01
interesting thread, I am going to start building a engine over the next few months and would appreciate links to good quality suppliers
I would be prepared to joining forces with anybody who is buying direct from the states to cut down prices and delivery :)
but I need to research what sort of rockers/springs I need tho...
:)
interesting thread, I am going to start building a engine over the next few months and would appreciate links to good quality suppliers
I would be prepared to joining forces with anybody who is buying direct from the states to cut down prices and delivery :)
but I need to research what sort of rockers/springs I need tho...
http://www.briancrower.com/makes/nissan/sr20det.shtml
http://stores.ebay.com/B-E-Customs
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=13257-SR20T
local machine shop [work on vintage jag engines to honda V-tecs and where ballancing a F1 crank when i was there]
£300 for head porting, £35 to fit new valve guides, £100 rebore, and about £200 for crank grind/ballance, flywheel lightened and ballance, all in about £800 with head and block skimming and piston/rods ballance
mike_s14
09-12-2006, 10:08
thanks for that :thumbs: will do some reading up
will also look into where in the midlands / northwest can do my rebore / head work, anybody recommendations?
thanks for that :thumbs: will do some reading up
will also look into where in the midlands / northwest can do my rebore / head work, anybody recommendations?
http://www.chesmanengineering.co.uk/
any where in the south east that can do good engine machining. south of london :)
all the main bits are waiting at parcelforce for my rebuild, £900 worth of pistons, cams,ti retainers and springs, valve guides and seals and some other bits which i cannot remember:D and guess how much tax i need to pay........
wrong
£51.57 and thats with parcelforces £15 charge :notworthy :D god bless the $
AWESOME!:thumbs:
Looking forward to the pics of the parts when they all arrive.:)
AWESOME!:thumbs:
Looking forward to the pics of the parts when they all arrive.:)
Me too:nod: but not in MY thread:smash: :D
PMSL, I thought this was his thread!?!?:smash:
To many engine rebuilds going on, lol.:D
got my own thread now:p :D
Thats that 1015hp sr20DE cherry:eek: i think you have put it in the rong place thogh:confused: my engine isnt going to be that impresive
Thats that 1015hp sr20DE cherry:eek: i think you have put it in the rong place thogh:confused: my engine isnt going to be that impresive
why not:D
why not:D
Trust me, if i had the money it would be or more. its already going to be more than i can afford:cry:
little update while this has been brought back up, i was going to do it when i pick it up but i took the block and pistons down to be mechined the other day and iv striped the head whilst i was bored:D
Pics of it all when i pick it up next week:thumbs:
editted lol:p
You mite as well leave it there now:smash:
Hybrid S14
14-01-2007, 19:58
hows it goin? any pics yet?
hows it goin? any pics yet?
block is still at the mechine shop:nod: as iv got cash flow issues at the moment:annoyed: if you havent seen my other thread, here it is
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=261834
Dont worrie thogh mate, you should still have your engine on time:thumbs:
I cant not be doing any thing to my car, as iv got no money ATM to get on with the engine build. So i needed something to give me my fix that doesnt cost.
And this is the product of the last two nights, pretty dam chuffed.
1st of all i used a die grinder to remove the NISSAN and TWIN CAM 16 VALVE wording and filed and smothed with die grinder bits.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys284.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys285.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys286.jpg
Then an hour in the sand blaster
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys366.jpg
Fresh out of the blaster
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys365.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys364.jpg
Then the polishing starts (1st stage)
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys361.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys358.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys359.jpg
A bit more polishing
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys356.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys355.jpg
Nearly done
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys354.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys353.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys351.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys350.jpg
Not quite finished yet but i couldnt resist putting some pics up. still got the final stage in the polishing to do yet and tidy it up around the edges.
Hope you lot like it, i do.
Looks awesome mate. Top work! Get it finished you lazy git!! haha
Cheers Aj
Shortcut
23-01-2007, 20:51
:smitten: nice work:thumbs:
TheNickos
23-01-2007, 20:52
brilliant, you should do a service doing them!
Stevie-Boy
23-01-2007, 20:53
That's great work, I love doing VCs, hard work but worth it :-)
james anderson
23-01-2007, 20:54
good job mate :cool: how long does it take to sand? :)
Nice job :thumbs:
What do you use to polish? sandpaper? if so what different grades didi you go through at what stages?
Missed a Bit :rolleyes:
Only jokin i hope your engine bay is just as clean :nod:
good job mate :cool: how long does it take to sand? :)
It took about, an hour to get rid of the wording, an hour and a bit blasting, half hour with a mini DA to smooth a bit more and about 3hrs polishing. iv probly got another half hour or so to finish it.
Missed a Bit :rolleyes:
Only jokin i hope your engine bay is just as clean :nod:
I think so :D
http://www.sxoc.com/images/dynamic/memberimgs/lores/2006814195375.jpg
Nice job :thumbs:
What do you use to polish? sandpaper? if so what different grades didi you go through at what stages?
No, you can buy proper polishing kits, this is the works one, cost about £60 but iv seen simler ones on ebay for not that much £.
No, you can buy proper polishing kits, this is the works one, cost about £60 but iv seen simler ones on ebay for not that much £.
Cheers for the info :thumbs:
Gotta get a polishing kit now :)
nice mate, has come out well, and for free which we like,
i rember when i did this to my 1st nova's rocker cover, was well chufed too,
Actual_Ben_Taylor
23-01-2007, 21:21
Mine used to look like that - fully flattened and polished :)
Will look smart when its finished
Nice. Do you seal it while polishing? I'm just thinking that it's bare metal, how does it hold up to the elements?
No, you can buy proper polishing kits, this is the works one, cost about £60 but iv seen simler ones on ebay for not that much £.
I got one from thepolishingshop.co.uk the other day - £25 for three mops and the compunds, turned up the next day :) They've given me loads of really helpful advice too :nod: top guys :thumbs:
Can't wait to have a bash with it, but it's an anniversary present, so not allowed it until tomorrow :D
Nice. Do you seal it while polishing? I'm just thinking that it's bare metal, how does it hold up to the elements?
No, il just leave it mare metal and keep it clean. Alloy dulls down fairly quick but ill just run the mop over it befor things like JAE if it needs it:nod: i was thinking of getting SR20DET engraved across the front of it but that will cost money:annoyed: might make a template out of sleel and use a dremal myself, will have to do some test runs on something else 1st thogh:rolleyes:
Good work there fella :notworthy
Clouder_sx
23-01-2007, 22:16
Would it possible to make and polish a metal fan shroud thing? That would be lovely!
Shortcut
23-01-2007, 22:20
yep dont laquer (spelling) it, it peels and yellows with age too
No, il just leave it mare metal and keep it clean. Alloy dulls down fairly quick but ill just run the mop over it befor things like JAE if it needs it:nod: i was thinking of getting SR20DET engraved across the front of it but that will cost money:annoyed: might make a template out of sleel and use a dremal myself, will have to do some test runs on something else 1st thogh:rolleyes:
I've heard very good things about something called Colinite (sp?) for protecting polished ally - I plan to use a few coats of it on my wheel lips - I need to do some more digging about it though :) Not sure how it would stand up to engine heat either :(
Would it possible to make and polish a metal fan shroud thing? That would be lovely!
;) iv got plans to mount twin jag fans and will need a cowling made:nod: i will make it out of alloy but wont look any thing like the standard one:no: i dont no if it will look good polished thogh:no: will see.
Clouder_sx
23-01-2007, 22:57
;) iv got plans to mount twin jag fans and will need a cowling made:nod: i will make it out of alloy but wont look any thing like the standard one:no: i dont no if it will look good polished thogh:no: will see.
Be interested to see how this comes out :nod:
I just looked at your engine bay and imagined it that exact shape but polished alloy, and liked it. But be cool to have your own unique design made :cool:
blue boy
24-01-2007, 09:02
top job there:thumbs:
fancy doing mine :wack:
Alex_S14a
24-01-2007, 20:14
Looks superb mate :cool:
No, il just leave it mare metal and keep it clean. Alloy dulls down fairly quick but ill just run the mop over it befor things like JAE if it needs it:nod: i was thinking of getting SR20DET engraved across the front of it but that will cost money:annoyed: might make a template out of sleel and use a dremal myself, will have to do some test runs on something else 1st thogh:rolleyes:
What about etching it into the alloy? It'd be nice a subtle but still contrast against the polished finish of the rest of it. Could you make a template and sandblast it on?
Looks superb mate :cool:
What about etching it into the alloy? It'd be nice a subtle but still contrast against the polished finish of the rest of it. Could you make a template and sandblast it on?
Now that is a bloody good idea:nod: make a template easy, just go to sticker shop and get one cut out of the thickest vinyl they have, stick it on and give it a quick blast. i like this idea, no money involved:D Thanks for that, will defo give it a go. now need to think up a design:annoyed:
200krisx
24-01-2007, 20:54
Good work mate, I've wanted to do this for ages, I just really wanted a rocker cover without the raised lettering but then add polished on top of it and they look totally awesome :thumbs:
kev@tkl ltd
24-01-2007, 20:59
good work paul that looks:cool:
Thanks for the coments all:thumbs: looks like i have a few more to do now, all my mates with s14a's not on the forum see it today and now i have two to do:D might be getting that clutch sooner than i thoght + one of them turned up on a flat bed today with suspect melted piston:D
I have had an idea for the etching:nod:
"Built by
Paul Cheshire"
In a modern kind of hand calligraphy:confused:
200krisx
24-01-2007, 21:26
"Built by
Paul Cheshire"
In a modern kind of hand calligraphy:confused:
Who's he then :confused:
Only joking mate :D
I personally think just polished but etching something on it sounds ok :)
HTH,
Kris :)
Iv made up a little design but dont have a clue how to get it on here:confused: in paint.
It can always be polished off if it looks:ghey:
some more inspiration here:
http://200sx.kicks-ass.net/_bubba_/img441dd34e99d1a.jpg
http://200sx.kicks-ass.net/_bubba_/img43dd420a1d4ea.jpg
jatpoolsx
25-01-2007, 13:12
That looks wicked, i was thinking of getting me cam covers dipped in chrome (like what they apply to taps for a bath or sink) as i know someone who works in a factory, would it work?
200krisx
25-01-2007, 13:15
That looks wicked, i was thinking of getting me cam covers dipped in chrome (like what they apply to taps for a bath or sink) as i know someone who works in a factory, would it work?
It will work but you have the risk of it flaking off with high temps etc. The best way it as above and polish the original metal instead of adding another on top IMO.
HTH,
Kris :)
200krisx
25-01-2007, 13:18
some more inspiration here:
http://200sx.kicks-ass.net/_bubba_/img441dd34e99d1a.jpg
http://200sx.kicks-ass.net/_bubba_/img43dd420a1d4ea.jpg
I knew there was something different in your engine bay that took me a while to work out what it was... Your a lefty ;) Nice engine bay by the way :D
Arg, you polished around the wording!! and it looks good:eek: i only took it off as i didnt think it would polish in the tight parts:nod: yea manifold is next but i dont have a spair one of them:no:
Well, well, after all the problems iv had with my car over the last few months, i finally got some cash this week, most of the cash coming from a mate of mine who had killed a piston in his s14, cheers mat:thumbs: Now get the rest of my money you tight arse:smash:
So today i went and picked up the block:D
and orderd main and big end shells:nod:
Pics of block,
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys391.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys392.jpg
Also finished the cam cover off and coil pack cover
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys390.jpg
Jobs for next weeks evenings
Order ARP main bolts:annoyed:
Clean, prepare, detail and paint block.
Measure ring gaps,
Fit pistons to rods,
Clean and detail crank,
Take block, pistons, rods and damper pulley to be balenced,
Strip head, inspect and measure all components and make a list of parts needed.
Dan@DB-Power
02-02-2007, 20:48
Looking good Paul, and I saw Matt's car today. That didn't take you long :no:
Dan :thumbs:
Looking good Paul, and I saw Matt's car today. That didn't take you long :no:
Dan :thumbs:
No, i only pulled the engine, droped the sump, changed a piston, a quick hone and put it all back together. spent 4hours last fri, 5 sat, 4 tues and 6 to finish it thurs, would have been quicker but it was the 1st sr id put back together and was looking and gandering at things plus i relised after i timed in the cams etc that i had forgot to put the two bolts in under the cams right at the front of the head, so i had to take it all apart again:annoyed:
Chech it out hear , post 20:thumbs:
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=259408&highlight=day+workshop
Hybrid S14
03-02-2007, 15:17
looking good mate, cant belive thats the same tatty engine we chucked on the back of the pick up :wack:
suprmek1
04-02-2007, 04:34
Nice work:thumbs: im building my engine at the mo spent quite a bit more tho check my thread end off next week should have it all put up by then :whip: fingers crossed doing all the work myself porting etc
Dont laquer it lol, iv got my polished one on now and Karl laquered it and its got peel from the high temps in the bay. Need to use some thinners on it now and remove and repolish :P
ian19blue
25-02-2007, 22:02
good job there fella,got more patience than me to spend all that time polishing it.going to look wicked when finished :nod:
The_BULK
25-02-2007, 22:03
:clap: nice work, looks the biz :nod: :thumbs:
Well i done this tonight:nod:
I heard alot about it on DW and thoght id give it a go as its cheap and chearfull, me likes cheap:D
a few pics
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys448.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys449.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys450.jpg
It wasnt that bad to do really, striped it all down keeping things in order, washed every thing with degreaser and reasembles with new shims and oil:nod:
I got two new shims from nissan, the two that wer in the diff mesured .85mm and .95 mm due to wear the new ones are 1mm so i removed the .85 one and fitted two new 1mm and the old .95mm shims. filled it up with this morris oil and job done. I must say im well pleased with the resolt, it is nice and tight but doesnt clonck and bang like a welded diff, on gravle you can hear the wheels slipping a bit, just how i wanted it really. we will see once i go drifting how good it is:wack:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys452.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/carpiccys451.jpg
EDIT: forgot to say, while it was on the ramp i noticed that the fooking turbo elbow and manny have small cracks in them and the elbow is blowing ever so slightly!!!!! so iv got to take all the fooking tubby etc off tomorow to weld that lot up!!! and the new clutch arives wens so will be doing that wens to, it never ends!
Turbo'd_up
26-02-2007, 23:15
How much were the washers from Nissan?
Cant remember exactly but was above £5 and below £6 each:thumbs:
so its basically like having a brand new diff??
so its basically like having a brand new diff??
No, its a bodge really but it does feel like it:nod:
I don't quite understand, what's the actual modification over standard then? It sounds like you've just serviced it...or am I missing something here?
The additional washers pack the pinion gears tight together to cause extra resistance. However this causes extra wear and not smooth action. It doesn't make any difference to the resistance the viscous coupling offers.
The additional washers pack the pinion gears tight together to cause extra resistance. However this causes extra wear and not smooth action. It doesn't make any difference to the resistance the viscous coupling offers.
Correct, thats why its a bodge:D
How much tighter is it? Did you try turning a wheel on its own afterwards?
Sideways Danny
27-02-2007, 09:53
Nice. been thinking about just fitting new shims on my car for tighter road use, not interested in drift. gears scare the bejesus out of me though :wack:
oh you don't need to use LSD oil in a VLSD, it works completely different, you ideally want 75w90 GL4
Yeah the VLSD is sealed.
If you're scared Danny, I'll give you a hand rebuilding a diff :thumbs:
Irishpaddy
27-02-2007, 20:09
i had my diff shimmed before... but i had 4 washers in it.... it was locked feckking solid and was a mare to drive around corners...
took one of them out... its nice now.... but i have a s15 helical diff sitting in my hallway ready to go on...:cool:
Would it be worth doing the rebuild and putting in 3 washers? ie will it make the damn thing lock better than it does now? Mine never really locks when turning left but usually locks good going right. When doing a spot of drifting.
That oil is defo no good for the diff:no: have to change it asap, its too fine and now the diff is wining a bit:annoyed:
Got it back on the ramp today, im not really happy with it now, it needs to be just that bit tighter:annoyed: i cant turn one wheel when just one is off the floor but there is one junction i pull out of with some dodgy camber and angles and one wheel spins still:ghey:
superkev11
27-02-2007, 22:03
I hear the oil inside the viscous unit goes off with time reducing the efficency, is there any way to renew the fluid?
I hear the oil inside the viscous unit goes off with time reducing the efficency, is there any way to renew the fluid?
I spoke to a guy who builds transmitions he said he can split them and "fix" them but its a bit of a bodge and he cant garentee how long it will last. they are welded shut, so you have to cut it open and reweld it after:eek:
Bara Motorsport (Bromsgrove) will sell you a serviced / upgraded viscous coupling on an exchange basis.
S15 Torsen sounds like the way forward, though.
superkev11
28-02-2007, 16:43
would it be possible to drill a hole and inject new fluid?:confused: . I think some kind of replacement will be on the cards at some stage
I think you'd struggle.
'Goop' or 'treacle' would be a better description than 'fluid' - and the gaps between the plates are very thin.
Hybrid S14
17-03-2007, 15:26
hows it goin fella?
hows it goin fella?
Slow,:cry: im collecting bits and its getting there, just waiting on a few bits and i can start bolting it back together:nod:
I wish other bits(clutch and gearbox) would stop giving me hold ups.
Hybrid S14
17-03-2007, 17:12
know that feeling, starting to realise it is the joys of owning a 200 :wack:
Bodged up my head lights today after some drifting "issues" last year, the cable ties looked :ghey:
This is my bodge:D
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/09042007184.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/09042007185.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/09042007186.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/09042007187.jpg
This how my mates is done(he got the car like it) propa bodge:D
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/09042007188.jpg
So lets see how some of you lot have done it, as i no this is a common prob with these headlights:thumbs:
Alan_200sx
09-04-2007, 23:13
How do they normally look? Whats the purpose of the bodge?
mike_bristol83
09-04-2007, 23:22
mine arent bodges as yet by me anyway lol , apart from black silicone where its all snapped that previous owner did etc ...
Will be making up some Ally plates etc and then hiding it all under a cooling panel!
Will prob nd up looking like your mates lol
Whats the purpose of the bodge?
To stop them from falling out:wack: mind, the bonnet does hold them in if the brackets brake but the move around.
The brackets are really weak and brake easy. sorry no pics of any in good condition.
Well my passenger sidelight it ziptied in if that makes you feel anybetter :P
Its been a long time in the making now, but it is finally nearly finished.
I wasnt going to post this up untill it was finished and on the car but couldnt resist.
I see a few aftermarket manifolds and i was shocked at what you get for your money. so me being me, always trying to save money and do things the cheap way, i started to make my own.
It is in no way perfect, i no that but for the money it ows me its well worth it.
With out a doubt it will be better than stock, which was my aim really.
I have put some serious time and effort into this so please be nice!!!!
To save money i used the lower part of the stock manifold
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/27032007077.jpg
then spent a bit of time thinking of the best way to use it and ended up with this
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/27032007080.jpg
Played around with injector harness and turned the injectors 180degs to tidy up and hide the harness.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/27032007087.jpg
After 3 other cardbord and thin ally mock ups, this is the design and size i went for(spec 1 any way)
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/31032007105.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/31032007107.jpg
Then it was alot of cutting making the main plate
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/26042007239.jpg
Then main plate welded to the flangeey bit
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/03052007279.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/03052007280.jpg
Then loads more time matching the hole on the plate with the runners
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/08052007317.jpg
Even more grafting in the evenings to do this(stage one)
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/08052007321.jpg
(stage 2)
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/08052007323.jpg
Stage 3 not quite finished yet, still slight angles/ridges(not a perfect radios) there, just need to tidy up by hand with a bit of sand paper
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/08052007329.jpg
A hole saterday making this for the idle controll valve, again saving money. then i spoke to a guy with CNC mechine said £10 pop in a batch which i thoght was prity good.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/28042007269.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/28042007268.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/28042007263.jpg
Just a few things to do now and is finished.
Got to get the sheet for the chamber rolled(thursday)
Get it all stitched together(friday)
Fit vacume unions for brakes and FPR and one spair for DV if i deside to fit one later.
Pressure test to 3bar,
If pressure test goes well fit it and test it on the dyno.
Unfortanatly i think the idle controll valve is going to have to go on top as there isnt room under it, it will sit very low compaird to stock, i need to find some one with an engine assembled out of the car with alternator, oil filter and heater pipes still in place really???
Hope you lot like it.
blue boy
08-05-2007, 20:49
that is some darn fine work:thumbs:
Fake Ben Taylor
08-05-2007, 21:02
love it and also stealing some ideas. your main plate is EXACTLY what i wanted to end up with and also what i meant when trying to describe what i was going to do:nod:
as i say - love it and cant wait for more pics
only thing i would suggest is to angle the tb at the runners more if you know what i mean:)
love it and also stealing some ideas. your main plate is EXACTLY what i wanted to end up with and also what i meant when trying to describe what i was going to do:nod:
as i say - love it and cant wait for more pics
Thoght you wer going to make yours a cylinder shape?:confused:
Loads and loads of pics, these are just showing the basics, iv got well over 100 pics of differant stages,plans and ideas, cant be arsed to host them ATM.
mantachris
08-05-2007, 21:07
very impressive work :thumbs:
is that the std sized throttle body you're using with it?
Fake Ben Taylor
08-05-2007, 21:09
Thoght you wer going to make yours a cylinder shape?:confused:
Loads and loads of pics, these are just showing the basics, iv got well over 100 pics of differant stages,plans and ideas, cant be arsed to host them ATM.
i meant the entry to the runners on the main plate :nod: what i meant when i said 'welding widest radius on trumpet to plenum so that its like velocity stacks but doesnt stick out into plenum'
:thumbs:
edit to add - host em host em - drink a can of red bull lol:D
very impressive work :thumbs:
is that the std sized throttle body you're using with it?
Will be using sr20de s14/s15 throttle body if i can get hold of one, if not modifie the standard one or modifie the sr20de primera one to take cold start:thumbs:
Will be using sr20de s14/s15 throttle body if i can get hold of one, if not modifie the standard one or modifie the sr20de primera one to take cold start:thumbs:
what about altima/Q45 item? they are larger arent they?
very nice work though, how long did it take you in the end (didnt read thread properly, i have a fecking fever and headache so im missing out half of everything:rolleyes: )
what about altima/Q45 item? they are larger arent they?
very nice work though, how long did it take you in the end (didnt read thread properly, i have a fecking fever and headache so im missing out half of everything:rolleyes: )
I dont want a huge throttle body as throttle becomes less presice.
I dont want to think how long its taken me so far:eek:
I could proberbly make one in 2-3days if i worked 9 to 5 on it but its all the mesuring, planing, desiging p1ssing around that takes the time, if i wer to make another it would be a lot quicker as iv got all the templates etc.
So far its cost me £0:D but when done its going to come in at about £50:thumbs:
VIDAL BABBOON
08-05-2007, 22:01
Fair play, top work :nod:
Wish i had the tallent to do stuff like this.
nicely done, thats far better than open trumpets by themselves, just make sure the radiusing into the runners is good and you'll want a slight bit of taper to the mouth, about 12-14 deg.
When i modify some plenums i change the entry by welding it up fully then working backwards.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a300/BenRAWT/renault/P1010632.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a300/BenRAWT/renault/P1010651.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a300/BenRAWT/renault/P1010818.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a300/BenRAWT/renault/P1010826.jpg
You can see just how much larger the runner entry is compared to the head mating face.
nicely done, thats far better than open trumpets by themselves, just make sure the radiusing into the runners is good and you'll want a slight bit of taper to the mouth, about 12-14 deg.
When i modify some plenums i change the entry by welding it up fully then working backwards.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a300/BenRAWT/renault/P1010632.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a300/BenRAWT/renault/P1010651.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a300/BenRAWT/renault/P1010818.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a300/BenRAWT/renault/P1010826.jpg
You can see just how much larger the runner entry is compared to the head mating face.
Oh, i thoght it was best to keep it the same all the way throgh:annoyed: back on the bench tomorow then:wack: cant do much thogh else the walls will get thin and weak towords the main plate.
yea, in some cases just weld a bead around the entry and use that to extend the runner entry and build a small radius.
Ala.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a300/BenRAWT/plenumcoff.jpg
Fake Ben Taylor
08-05-2007, 22:42
im sorry polo but i may copy (with personal twists) this idea as it looks amazing and looks like it will work REALLY well :nod::notworthy:
looks like it will work so much better than my original idea and also easier to get the smooth radius' than my idea:)
get a CNC shop to machine the plate, it'll be alot faster lol.
Fake Ben Taylor
08-05-2007, 22:57
get a CNC shop to machine the plate, it'll be alot faster lol.
would they be capable of machining the radius'?
cliffb75
08-05-2007, 22:59
Good work Polo - plenty of effort gone in there.
One point - check the spray pattern on your injectors. If its an offset cone then rotating them 180 degrees will mean you are injecting straight onto the wall which is bad, as you'll get loads of wall film and droplet formation.:(
Of course if the cone axis is straight then you can rotate them all you want :)
would they be capable of machining the radius'?
you bet, even a plain 3 axis can.
im sorry polo but i may copy (with personal twists) this idea as it looks amazing and looks like it will work REALLY well :nod::notworthy:
looks like it will work so much better than my original idea and also easier to get the smooth radius' than my idea:)
This is why i didnt want to poat untill finished:wack:
get a CNC shop to machine the plate, it'll be alot faster lol.
Entry to the port isnt a perfect cercle and would cost more money defeting the object of the manifold, althogh the guy i deal with did say it wouldnt be too much bother if i wanted to start making batches.
would they be capable of machining the radius'?
Oh yes:nod:
Good work Polo - plenty of effort gone in there.
One point - check the spray pattern on your injectors. If its an offset cone then rotating them 180 degrees will mean you are injecting straight onto the wall which is bad, as you'll get loads of wall film and droplet formation.:(
Of course if the cone axis is straight then you can rotate them all you want :)
Lots of secretive work gone into that area mate:nod: just for the record the injectors spray simetrical, you could turn them 90degs and still get the same pattern:thumbs:
Fake Ben Taylor
08-05-2007, 23:11
This is why i didnt want to poat untill finished:wack:
sorry dude:( it just looks so good and soooo much better than what i could think of:) at least mine will be on a ca so technically different;)
but cheers:thumbs: :wack:
sorry dude:( it just looks so good and soooo much better than what i could think of:) at least mine will be on a ca so technically different;)
but cheers:thumbs: :wack:
You can use the idea/design as long as you put on it "idea stolen from Polo":D
Fake Ben Taylor
08-05-2007, 23:26
You can use the idea/design as long as you put on it "idea stolen from Polo":D
deal:thumbs: :wack:
cliffb75
09-05-2007, 12:55
Lots of secretive work gone into that area mate:nod: just for the record the injectors spray simetrical, you could turn them 90degs and still get the same pattern:thumbs:
Good good. Just checking....:)
Purplepower
09-05-2007, 14:54
Very impressive fella :)
I dont want a huge throttle body as throttle becomes less presice.
I dont want to think how long its taken me so far:eek:
I could proberbly make one in 2-3days if i worked 9 to 5 on it but its all the mesuring, planing, desiging p1ssing around that takes the time, if i wer to make another it would be a lot quicker as iv got all the templates etc.
So far its cost me £0:D but when done its going to come in at about £50:thumbs:
nice one!
i'll take one at £200 lol:thumbs: make paul work is ass off!
nice one!
i'll take one at £200 lol:thumbs: make paul work is ass off!
If im to make one or more for any one they would be a fair few more £££ than that:eek:
Im looking into how much it would cost and how much work is involved in making a batch.
Unless i can get most of it done by mechine they wont be cheap as they will all be made by hand wich will take ages, in which case, its just not worth spending all my own time making them for a few hundred £.
Thats if any one is interested :confused:
If im to make one or more for any one they would be a fair few more £££ than that:eek:
Im looking into how much it would cost and how much work is involved in making a batch.
Unless i can get most of it done by mechine they wont be cheap as they will all be made by hand wich will take ages, in which case, its just not worth spending all my own time making them for a few hundred £.
Thats if any one is interested :confused:
i know that;) thats why i lol'ed:thumbs:
should be around £550/£600 or something?
i know that;) thats why i lol'ed:thumbs:
should be around £550/£600 or something?
Yea, round about that mark, id make them for that:nod: at one a month or so. But will any one pay that?
Colin Gibson
09-05-2007, 21:35
Its certainly a chunk less than I spent on my GTiR manifold setup,
if the results (lots more power/revs at the top end), are any way comparable then I would personally call it a bargain.
get the tests up!:D
Its certainly a chunk less than I spent on my GTiR manifold setup,
if the results (lots more power/revs at the top end), are any way comparable then I would personally call it a bargain.
get the tests up!:D
Oh, its going to be tested alright:nod: its got to pass a 3bar pressure test 1st and then its going on a 600hp beast:eek:
It will have a bit more bracing and strenghtening by then:wack:
Oh, its going to be tested alright:nod: its got to pass a 3bar pressure test 1st and then its going on a 600hp beast:eek:
It will have a bit more bracing and strenghtening by then:wack:
like your style:nod: gives great pleasure making something your self, i just wish i had got a dc tig set instead of an ac one:nod:
like your style:nod: gives great pleasure making something your self, i just wish i had got a dc tig set instead of an ac one:nod:
Im doing it all my self apart from the welding and pressure testing:D
Found a guy to weld it up really cheap as he is just as keen as me to get it done and see the results.
Fantastic work Polo, looks like a real work of art. Have you tuned the length of the runners to get a specific power band or just decided to go shorter?
Fantastic work Polo, looks like a real work of art. Have you tuned the length of the runners to get a specific power band or just decided to go shorter?
Thanks:thumbs:
No not tuned length, as said in the 1st post i no its not perfect, using the stock flange with this design would make it too hard to do it.
They not far off being matched thogh:nod:
ferretca18
09-05-2007, 23:34
that looks awesome mate! good job:)
Yea, round about that mark, id make them for that:nod: at one a month or so. But will any one pay that?
well not at this moment dude, im only a student:( .
also, if it will be better than some 'mass produced' ones (they go for about £100 less) i guess you can get someone interested:)
Colin Gibson
10-05-2007, 10:41
Mass produced Short runner inlet manifolds for the SR?
Who makes them?
Actual_Ben_Taylor
10-05-2007, 10:52
Mass produced Short runner inlet manifolds for the SR?
Who makes them?
ku_engineering on ebay
Fake Ben Taylor
10-05-2007, 10:57
ive found LOADS of sr inlet manifolds on ebay both long runner greddy style ones and short runner ones :nod:
Colin Gibson
10-05-2007, 11:36
Has anyone seen any sort of 'before and after' testing on any of these (short runner ones)?, Id be interested to see the difference any of them make to low, high and mid range power/torque
Fake Ben Taylor
10-05-2007, 13:00
Has anyone seen any sort of 'before and after' testing on any of these (short runner ones)?, Id be interested to see the difference any of them make to low, high and mid range power/torque
dont know of any back to back testing but i think the general consensus is that you will lose out low down on a little torque but gain quite a bit at the top end.
Thats some quality engineering there polo. Looks very :cool:
Nice work fella, you really do keep yourself busy don't you.....
Looking good Polo, has kind of inspired me to knock one up for my CA while I'm bored at work!!
What made you make the back plate out of such thick ally? Just so you had enough material to get the radius?
Does the extended trumpet idea (ala carbs, TB's) not work so well in an enclosed plenum then?
I take it you're just bypassing the water jacket pipework?
Oh, and I may be being a little ignorant here as I haven't read up on all of the inlet design theory lately, but what would make something like this worth paying around £600 for against something like the one Apex are offering for SR's at £135?
What made you make the back plate out of such thick ally? Just so you had enough material to get the radius?
Exactly that:nod:
Does the extended trumpet idea (ala carbs, TB's) not work so well in an enclosed plenum then?
Main reson i done it this way was to save money, getting trumpets made would cost a loads and the entry to the runner is not a perfect circle so it would mess up the flow and be a toss to match up nicely.
I also have my theories to why this way is better.
I take it you're just bypassing the water jacket pipework?
No, the water jacket on the stock lower manifold has not been touched:no:
That stays standard.
Oh, and I may be being a little ignorant here as I haven't read up on all of the inlet design theory lately, but what would make something like this worth paying around £600 for against something like the one Apex are offering for SR's at £135?
They are probably made in the deapest darkest factory by kids in some poor undeveloped country and mass produced.
Mine has had loads of time and effort put into it, i dont work for nothing:wack:
If i wer to add up the houres spent on it then put my rate on it it would be alot more than that! maybe even double:nod: and thats not making a profit, thats just cost really.
Got the alloy for the chamber rolled today and test fitted to an engine to see if i could fit ICV on the bottom, which i can:D yay.
Thanks Mitch:thumbs:
Its 3mm thick sheet, its a lot stiffer than i thoght it would be, we rolled it a tad too far, so i had to open it out about 1/8inch and bloody hell i strugled:nod: which is a good thing. if i have any probs with fatigue on this one the next will be made out of 4mm, which with Mitch's roller should be easy.
Some pics as i no you all like them:D
Now, how good would that look with a huge top mount bolted on the other side:smitten:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/10052007336.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/10052007337.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/10052007338.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/10052007342.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/10052007341.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/10052007339.jpg
Nice work, in my experience with rolling ally it's more down to the grade than thickness that affects fatigue.
Is the cut away at the front a design thing, or just due to clearance against head?
Fake Ben Taylor
10-05-2007, 23:15
ooooooooooh shiny:)
very nice.
radius the top and bottom of the inlet blends to 'rectangle it' more.
Fake Ben Taylor
10-05-2007, 23:32
very nice.
radius the top and bottom of the inlet blends to 'rectangle it' more.
what do you mean:confused:
intake cycles are occur in cylinders that are paired, the area between each runner entry can become a deadzone. The only clear area is above and below the runner entry. Profile this to make best use of available area and increase efficiency.
Most plenums of proper design do not have round entires by a long margin.
Fake Ben Taylor
11-05-2007, 00:16
i see - like the pics of the manifold you posted?
not always no as that manifold was a compramise.
Nice one Paul, I know you've put many hours of effort into this :thumbs:
Bring it round when it's all welded up :nod:
Something else I noticed, what did you do about the gap between the plate and the runners where the weld hasn't penetrated?
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/P0l0200sxy/08052007323.jpg
Did you just weld a bead on the inside as well then grind it back to give radius without gaps/breaks?
Hallsy
In that pic there is a little bit of a lip still, now it is blended in that has gone:nod: there is only ever so slight gaps in two places now but not enogh to cause consern.
BenR
Stop giving me more work:whip:
How much differance is it going to make if i make the entrys a bit rectanger to what they are now?:confused:
Huge thanks for all the nice comments so far by the way people.
blue boy
11-05-2007, 11:56
Darn this looks so good.:nod:
your doing a great job but i do think 3mm is way to thin for the body as it will flex as it cycles from vacume to pressure and as you will only get to weld the out side its to thin to prep for welding, 6mm would be way better and there was at least one member on this site that had a plenum like this peel open:nod:
Fake Ben Taylor
11-05-2007, 13:42
your doing a great job but i do think 3mm is way to thin for the body as it will flex as it cycles from vacume to pressure and as you will only get to weld the out side its to thin to prep for welding, 6mm would be way better and there was at least one member on this site that had a plenum like this peel open:nod:
jez's peeled open but i think a lot of that was due to the shape of it.
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