View Full Version : Flooding sills and chassis to stop rust.
John Bennett
06-05-2007, 18:42
I want to put something liquidy into the sills and chassis rails, rather than leave them bare, as they seem to attract moisture and always manage rust from the inside out :( .
Is there anything better that waxoyl that I can get for less that £1000 a tin? Or would I be better pouring a load of castrol GTX into them? :wack:
cheers :)
Um, i have a copy of practical classics kicking around somewhere....I'll have a look in that...seem to remember there being a kit for about a ton that should do the job...:nod:
Um, i have a copy of practical classics kicking around somewhere...
Me too :D
Dinitrol has won their last couple of cavity rustproofing comparing test article things :thumbs:
Me too :D
Dinitrol has won their last couple of cavity rustproofing comparing test article things :thumbs:
Thats the stuff...(mags' in the loo...:D) there was another one too that you could have as an aerosol or as a compressor based spray..
EDIT: nope, dinitrol is the stuff....my bad...www.rust.co.uk
Yup dinatrols the stuff, the boss did his Pantera in dinatrol and was happy with the results, the problem with waxoil is if you put too much in, more than just a surface caosting it tends to form into a solid lump and shrink as it dries, leaving not so much protection :(
I want to put something liquidy into the sills and chassis rails, rather than leave them bare, as they seem to attract moisture and always manage rust from the inside out :( .
Is there anything better that waxoyl that I can get for less that £1000 a tin? Or would I be better pouring a load of castrol GTX into them? :wack:
cheers :)
I am doing loads of research on wax injection at the moment :nod: If you can hang fire for a while I will be posting loads of stuff up in my "refurb time again" thread. I wouldn't use waxoyl and pouring oil into the box sections is not a good idea.
A sample of an anti-corrosion wax is being sent to me for assessment, it’s available in aerosols which includes a 60cm cavity injection lance. This offers a high-pressure, finely atomised circular mist ensuring 360 degree coverage of box sections and cavities. The aerosol contains 3/4L. They also sell it in 5L tins though I would think it very difficult to apply 5L of wax injection to a car. My guess is that you are probably looking at around £20 - £30 to do an SX with aerosols :thumbs:
Aah, a mystery product :D
In the meantime, I'm happy to point anyone towards Practical Classics' research :nod:
Ari Vatanen
06-05-2007, 22:53
is Ziebart any good for what you need ???
or is it just the same as waxoyl :confused:
Aah, a mystery product :D
In the meantime, I'm happy to point anyone towards Practical Classics' research :nod:
It's not a mystery product, it's all on the interweb :D
Oh and what did Practical Classics' research tell you?
John Bennett
06-05-2007, 23:09
I'm not in such a hurry. having spent last week welding up the sill anyway (it's future proofing - sort of, although I expect to have to weld up the opposite sill within the year anyway, as there's signs of bubbling from the inside).
You can get at the rear part of the sill via the taped-over holes in the cabin, so there's reasonable access, but the liquid would have to be liquidy enough to leak down to the bottom of the sill once sprayed, coating all the surfaces it passes (I'd imagine wax would stick to whatever it initially hit). I don't think you can cover all the vunerable surfaces with a 360 degree sprayer thingy, as some are overlapped by others (hence my flooding thoughts), particularly the inner and outer sill skins.
In the meantime, I'm happy to point anyone towards Practical Classics' research :nod:
Just to add - Journalist write articles for magazines – they know very little about corrosion. They do a quick test and the masses jump on the bandwagon :indiff:
Maybe it's best to keep my thoughts to myself :nod:
The Practical Classics article seemed to have enough integrity, for me to post the result on the SXOC. What you do with your thoughts is your concern :nod:
I'll dig out the article and stick it up here tomorrow (my home scanner's playing "I don't want to scan") :D
OK, I will keep my thoughts and findings to myself :)
Proper findings are good :nod: Mystery products just confuse the issue.
Love me or hate me.... All I am doing is trying to find a solution to the rust problem..Please don't knock me for that. Jon how many hours have you spent researching this? Zero is my guess - Well I have spent over 40 hours researching the rust problem and the best way to cure it.... Now should I share this information with you?
Now should I share this information with you?
YES!!!!! :thumbs:
Other than reading a magazine article that I trust, I have personally done no practical rust prevention research, no.
Smart-Tech
07-05-2007, 09:04
I have spent too many hours researching products and found Dinatrol to be the best available at the time. If Pete has found something then I would be interested in his findings as his work speaks for itself ;)
Used chip fat or vegetable oil is very good for undersealing cars, much better than any product I've found anyway. I don't know how it would perform in the sills, but it might make your car smell a bit funny.:)
But if you do decide to use an off the shelf product such as Waxoyl, heat it up in a sink full of warm water before hand and it will work much better.
Used chip fat or vegetable oil is very good for undersealing cars, much better than any product I've found anyway. I don't know how it would perform in the sills, but it might make your car smell a bit funny.:)
heh, great till the summer comes and it all drips off!! :D
I got some tinworm on the 14a so i'll be interested in this too...
Love me or hate me.... All I am doing is trying to find a solution to the rust problem..Please don't knock me for that. Jon how many hours have you spent researching this? Zero is my guess - Well I have spent over 40 hours researching the rust problem and the best way to cure it.... Now should I share this information with you?
Share it with everyone :thumbs: there's no need to get shirty with someone because they have an opinion on something that differs from yours :) I don't suppose you know the people who write Practical Classics any better than Jon so you could both be wrong as easily as right.
Let's just get as much information as possible out there to help as many people as possible? :)
Used chip fat or vegetable oil is very good for undersealing cars, much better than any product I've found anyway. I don't know how it would perform in the sills, but it might make your car smell a bit funny.:)
PMSL :notworthy
If you do decide to use an off the shelf product such as Waxoyl, heat it up in a sink full of warm water before hand and it will work much better.
Heating it up makes no difference. As soon as it hits the cool steel it thickens. What you typically end up with is a very rippled finish inside the sill. I believe this causes water to puddle in the Wax. The problem being that this water evaporates and since there is very little or no ventilation inside the sills, it has nowhere to go and condenses inside. When I did inside the sills of the S13 I heated them up with a 3KW fan heater until it started to melt and run out. Only time will tell if it worked.
Some of these products are quite old and technology moves on. I don’t think for example, that many members would use T Cut on their cars. There are better products out there. The problem with this type of job is it’s irreversible. I would rather not bother than risk doing more harm than good. This is the stuff I am looking at
http://www.bilthamber.co.uk/dynaxs50.html
I have spoken to Pete Hamber and he reckons the Dynax S50 is the dogs but then he would. The comparison salt tests on the site certainly look impressive but being the pessimist I am, I am going to conduct my own test. The plan is to coat both corroded and bright steel plates and soak them in a saturated road salt solution. Hope I don’t get caught nicking a cup of salt from the grit bin :D It would be interesting to do the same with Dinitrol to find out which is best :nod:
It says on the Bilt Hamber site that the Swedish Corrosion Institute conducted a thorough investigation into vehicle corrosion by sawing open the bodies of 845 collision-damaged cars manufactured between 1994 and 1997 – Imagine doing that! What an arse of a job :eek: :D
There's no need to get shirty with someone because they have an opinion on something that differs from yours :) I don't suppose you know the people who write Practical Classics any better than Jon so you could both be wrong as easily as right.
First of all I would like to apologise if my posts were "shirty" No I don't know the people that write "Practical Classics" .... Or do I ;) Jon and I have exchanged PM's and I sincerely hope that there are no hard feeling between us :nod:
I now have some mild steel plates to do the corrosion tests :thumbs: Anyone got any Dinatrol?
I now have some mild steel plates to do the corrosion tests :thumbs: Anyone got any Dinatrol?I'll find the cash to buy the dinatrol if you can find the 20 years to test it :nod: :thumbs: Anything less than 20 years would be meaningless :nod:
and I forgot to find the article :o It was done over about 12months iirc. Piles of magazines to wade through, but I'll find it.
PMSL :notworthy
Heating it up makes no difference. As soon as it hits the cool steel it thickens. What you typically end up with is a very rippled finish inside the sill. I believe this causes water to puddle in the Wax. The problem being that this water evaporates and since there is very little or no ventilation inside the sills, it has nowhere to go and condenses inside. When I did inside the sills of the S13 I heated them up with a 3KW fan heater until it started to melt and run out. Only time will tell if it worked.
:D
Good idea heating up the sill, but I found that the stuff won't even come out of the tin without being heated first, but then it is a bit nippy in the garage.:)
Started the test with 2 plates of very slightly corroded steel
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Rust%20test/001_090507.jpg
Then applied the wax
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Rust%20test/002_090507.jpg
Dynax on the left - Waxoyl on the right. I tried to get a good finish with the waxoyl but failed as you can see. It's also interesting to note that when I moved the 2 sample pieces, my thumbprint remained on the waxoyl but the Dynax was thin enough to cover the area.
These are going in the salt bath in the morn ;)
Hmmmm interesting, it rained last night but stopped a few hours ago
Left dynax S-50, middle waxoyl, right untreated
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Rust%20test/003_130507.jpg
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Rust%20test/004_130507.jpg
Am i right in thinking that the Dynax has removed the surface rust which you started with ?
Colin Gibson
13-05-2007, 16:09
I know nothing about this stuff myself,but often read these threads with interest (Id love to get my car 'de-rusted', fully treated etc. and would be willing to pay some decent money)
all the confusion surprises me though,
arent there experts and professionals In this field, ie folk who do this kind of stuff for a livinglooking after priceless old classics or whatever? Or simply just experts in the prevention of the treatment of corrosion in any roughly comparable sort of metal, outdoor machinery or equipment,
I mean how mysterious can this stuff be? :confused:
shit, thats an incredible result from dynax S-50!!!! try leaving them for a longer period
Am i right in thinking that the Dynax has removed the surface rust which you started with ?
I can’t tell, the Dynax is a dark brown colour. When one of them starts rusting “proper” I will clean them both off with solvent and have a look. The waxoyl treated piece has some discolouring on it though, at this point I don’t know what it is.
I mean how mysterious can this stuff be? :confused:
I’m afraid there’s a lot of http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/gifanis/bs.gif talked about wax injection products, corrosion removers, paints that remove rust, sealant, anti rust this and protectant that. I have used stone chip in the past and it was about as good as slapping a coat of emulsion on. There are professionals who make a living out of waxoyling cars but I have always had my doubts about it. I posted this some time ago on SXOC
Waxoyl in box sections
I have my doubts about waxoyling inside box sections. Here’s why.
Inside the sills if factory coated with a rustproofing wax. It’s a very thin coat and has a smooth finish. Any water that enters the cavity will naturally run down and out of the drain holes.
The problem with applying Waxoyl is achieving this perfect finish inside the box section. What you typically end up with is a very rippled finish. I believe that this causes water to puddle in the Waxoyl. The problem being that this water evaporates and since there is very little or no ventilation inside the sills it has no where to go other than condense inside.......
The most interesting thing about the pictures is the puddle of water on the waxoyl treated piece. I have decided that high viscosity wax injection products are not the way to go. They will not penetrate seams and thinner products offer better capillary action and self-sealing properties.
shit, thats an incredible result from dynax S-50!!!! try leaving them for a longer period
They will be there for some time – and to try to accelerate the corrosion, I keep throwing road grit on them :D
At the end of the day, these are only my opinions based on my experiences :nod: All I am trying to do is find the best stuff for the job :thumbs:
I have used stone chip in the past and it was about as good as slapping a coat of emulsion on.
They will be there for some time – and to try to accelerate the corrosion, I keep throwing road grit on them :D
At the end of the day, these are only my opinions based on my experiences :nod: All I am trying to do is find the best stuff for the job :thumbs:
This Dynax stuff sounds like it's good for box sections but possibly not much else? (although it mentions self healing on the site :smash:) In your testing are you going to throw gravel at the mild steel sections? (to mimic road grit, etc hitting it)
Can you recommend anything better than stone chip?
Yes the road grit is on the samples ;)
steve 1200
13-05-2007, 22:28
Keep going m8 as i will be doing mine soon and this is helping me make a decision :thumbs:
This Dynax stuff sounds like it's good for box sections but possibly not much else? (although it mentions self healing on the site :smash:) In your testing are you going to throw gravel at the mild steel sections? (to mimic road grit, etc hitting it)
I am not trying to simulate road grit hitting the samples, just trying to accelerate the corrosion. BTW have you ever thrown salt from a bin onto the road with your hands? I once did and my hands swollen up like balloons :eek: It’s really aggressive stuff.
The Dynax is intended as a box section wax, some wax manufacturers suggest spraying under the wheel arches but I don't think it would last long driving down a gritted road. The other problem is that if you applied it quite thick, dirt would stick to it. As the dirt builds up it holds moisture and would never dry out. I can only assume they are attempting to sell as much product as they can by offering a one stop solution.
If you look at how manufactures protect their cars its waxy stuff in the box sections and stonechip under the arches. I think this is the best way, different products for different areas. I think stonechip is fantastic stuff and you would be hard pressed to find anything better for under the arches. I have no doubt though that some brands are better than others. I am going to try some 3M :)
Do you work for the highways agency or something? :wack:
Earlier you said that stonechip was no better than emulsion :confused:
what about the floor pan itself, stonechip again? :confused:
You seem about the most knowledgeable on the board on this sort of stuff, it's a lot to ask but I think it would be really useful if you could post up a reference thread (maybe to go in that reference section that's a little empty :wack: ) on the best stuff to use for what parts in what condition :nod: (or are you going to include this information in your mammoth restoration project that I gather is imminent?)
Lol no I am a video editor, The “emulsion” stonechip was some cheapy cheap stuff I used years ago (can’t remember what brand it was though :rolleyes: ) It just flaked off. Yep stonechip the sills, chassis rails and floor pan. I will include all the prepping, products and application in the refurb thread (which is being held up by the weather and waiting for MR Postie to arrive with goodies)
With all due respect Petrol, while I find your studies fascinating I can't see the relevance. You can try and accelerate corrosion all you want but it won't make a difference unless you're leaving it for a long time. The corrosion tests here at Millbrook are pretty hardcore, more than just throwing road grit at a plate dude.
The corrosion tests here at Millbrook are pretty hardcore, more than just throwing road grit at a plate dude.
Just looked at the website, facilities there are :eek: :notworthy "Accelerated corrosion simulating 1 year in 2 weeks " Do they publish any results?
With all due respect Petrol, while I find your studies fascinating I can't see the relevance. You can try and accelerate corrosion all you want but it won't make a difference unless you're leaving it for a long time. The corrosion tests here at Millbrook are pretty hardcore, more than just throwing road grit at a plate dude.
While that is true even from those first pics I can see that waxoyl doesn't look to perform as well as that other stuff, so it could help us to discount some products quite easily :thumbs:
how about using the "carpet" bmw is now using in their arches?? would this help to protect our inner arches
Just looked at the website, facilities there are :eek: :notworthy "Accelerated corrosion simulating 1 year in 2 weeks " Do they publish any results?
I guess the answer to this is no ;)
Shaziman
16-05-2007, 00:53
i was given this link to an MR2 site. The MR2 guys seem to think that this method is the shit, see what you all think:
LINK (http://forums.twobrutal.com/showpost.php?p=78841&postcount=6)
For those of you who can't be bothered to register:
"take one tin of tetroseal underbody sealant
pour into large bucket
add 25% old engine oil
add 25% gear oil
mk2 owners pubes are optional at this point
take a wire coathanger and bend it straight ish,put it into a cordless drill and whisk the shite out of the mixture until it has soft peaks like merangue (?) if it seems a bit thick add more engine oil.
Fill a shutz gun with the concoction and apply over welded areas and underbody wearing a full paper suit.You do not want this shit in your hair or skin,its horrible to get off! johnny had to scrub me down for ages in the bath last ti...........er i mean......
when it cures it will have an outer skin like a custard but underneath it remains putty like,so it never hardens,never cracks and 100% wont allow water through....ive done cars 15 years ago that still have perfect steel under the mixture,works a treat."
Just to re-itterate, this is not my concocsion, its from the MR2 site, so please don't slate me for this!
Smart-Tech
16-05-2007, 07:45
i was given this link to an MR2 site. The MR2 guys seem to think that this method is the shit, see what you all think:
LINK (http://forums.twobrutal.com/showpost.php?p=78841&postcount=6)
For those of you who can't be bothered to register:
"take one tin of tetroseal underbody sealant
pour into large bucket
add 25% old engine oil
add 25% gear oil
mk2 owners pubes are optional at this point
take a wire coathanger and bend it straight ish,put it into a cordless drill and whisk the shite out of the mixture until it has soft peaks like merangue (?) if it seems a bit thick add more engine oil.
Fill a shutz gun with the concoction and apply over welded areas and underbody wearing a full paper suit.You do not want this shit in your hair or skin,its horrible to get off! johnny had to scrub me down for ages in the bath last ti...........er i mean......
when it cures it will have an outer skin like a custard but underneath it remains putty like,so it never hardens,never cracks and 100% wont allow water through....ive done cars 15 years ago that still have perfect steel under the mixture,works a treat."
Just to re-itterate, this is not my concocsion, its from the MR2 site, so please don't slate me for this!
This does work as a preventer. remember that:
1. Takes weeks to dry.
2. You will never get it off your drive.
3. It is carcinogenic due to the used oil.
This does work as a preventer. remember that:
I am sure it does but his cars never rot as he can’t drive them due to the stench of gear oil :wack: It's not easy finding info on this subject. Manufacturers obviously have their products tested against others at facilities like Millbrook and probably pay a substantial amount for it. The results will be confidential though.
Started pouring this on the samples a couple of days ago
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Rust%20test/005_160507.jpg
I know it's only a mickey mouse test but a week on and they look like this
Dynax left, Waxoyl middle, untreated right
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Rust%20test/006_160507.jpg
Colin Gibson
16-05-2007, 10:03
so all I need to do now is find a brand new 200sx which has never been exposed to the outdoors, transplant my engine/drivetrain, get it sprayed up underneath with this goo....
then no more worries!
I have used stonechip to protect my arches, but not on bare metal. I have used the POR-15 '3 step treatment' (Marine clean to degrease, metal ready to prep and 'convert rust', tehn POR-15) and then covered that in Stonechip paint by Waxoyl - the stuff that is basically a thick tarry goo - this way i figure i should have the best of both worlds. - protection of the metal underneath that should hopefully seal it (the POR15 sets like concrete) and the tarry goop to keep stuff away from it.
Fingers crossed, i'll tell you how it holds up in a few years!
So that's the easy bits (rear arches) done. Next step - the aforementioned sills and box sections, along with the entire underbody.
This is Dinitrol's recommended treatment areas for the S13 :D
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Rust%20test/Dinitrol.jpg
Might as well just immerse it :wack:
This is Dinitrol's recommended treatment areas for the S13 :D
Might as well just immerse it :wack:
:eek: :ghey: :D
scimmy ben
16-05-2007, 15:38
iirc, either the Practical Classics or Car Mechanics tests put a scratrch down the middle of the panel to test the 'self healing' properties
This is Dinitrol's recommended treatment areas for the S13 :D
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Rust%20test/Dinitrol.jpg
Might as well just immerse it :wack:
Where did you find that? Can you get the info for other cars?
I bought some epoxy mastic from this place and happened to mention it was for an SX.
http://www.rust.co.uk/home.cfm
When the paint arrived they had included the data sheet. Maybe they are trying to sell me some Dinitrol :D
djlee_dj
26-05-2007, 20:40
any more results ?
wouldnt mind doing my 14a
iirc, either the Practical Classics or Car Mechanics tests put a scratrch down the middle of the panel to test the 'self healing' properties
I only intend to use the wax in box sections so it doesn’t really need to provide any impact or self healing properties
any more results ?
wouldnt mind doing my 14a
Yep. What was interesting is that after it had stopped raining for a few hours, the waxoyl covered plate still had a puddle of water on it, whereas the dynax S-50 coated plate was bone dry.
Pics say it all really. Left is Dynax S-50 Right is Waxoyl. Bear in mind its only 17 days ago I started this test.
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Rust%20test/008_260507.jpg
Pic of the back of the plates to show how much corrosion I managed to achieve :D Again left is Dynax.
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Rust%20test/009_260507.jpg
djlee_dj
26-05-2007, 21:20
were do you get the dynax ? is it dear ?
same sort of stuff to waxoyl ?
were do you get the dynax ? is it dear ?
same sort of stuff to waxoyl ?
No it's not expensive. Phone them on 01277 658899 to order.
No it's not the same as waxoyl :smash:
djlee_dj
26-05-2007, 23:36
is it applied the same ???
how much is it ? how much to do a complete underside of s14a
is it applied the same ???
how much is it ? how much to do a complete underside of s14a
At a guess about £40
More info here
http://www.bilthamber.co.uk/electrox.html
charlaph
28-05-2007, 20:33
I can see a group buy coming....
Yep this stuff looks good, I was looking at getting my nether regions waxoyled but this stuff makes a lot more sense.
Anyone up for sorting a group buy for this? I was looking at getting this done this year, before winter hits again. :)
I guess the answer to this is no ;)
Sorry dude, I've only just browsed back into this section again as I'd forgotten about the topic.
The answer is indeed no though :p Hell, I don't even get to see the results, let alone the internet. :cool:
I want a job at your place :nod:
Just sprayed some wax on the back of the plates :eek: .... lets see if the "kills old rust" claim stands up ;)
djlee_dj
04-06-2007, 12:58
so i want to give my s14a a quick once over.
5 litres @ 39.95 is what im after ?
can you paint it on ? or have to be sprayed ?
will this kill surface rust ?
so i want to give my s14a a quick once over.
5 litres @ 39.95 is what im after ?
can you paint it on ? or have to be sprayed ?
will this kill surface rust ?
I guess the 5 litres is a compressor & spray gun jobbie. I only intend to use it inside of box sections and have bought aerosols :)
The dynax seems to have prevented further corrosion on the plates that I tested :)
djlee_dj
04-06-2007, 23:04
how long must you leave it before you drive ? i could do it in work but would have to drive after a little bit.
were do you spray ?? remove exhaust + sill to sill ? bottom off crossmember etc ? struts ? inside wheel archs ? wishbones ? diff ?
please can you knock up a quick 'spray or not too spray' type guide ? what needs masked off ? removed etc ?
:) want this done after a little patch of weld :)
want this done after a little patch of weld :)
I would just spray/brush some wax over the weld :nod: For a more comprehensive insight into rust prevention you might want to look at this thread http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826 ;)
If you want to get cracking sooner rather than later, I posted this basic guide up some time ago :) http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=118653&highlight=waxoyl
Top work guys very interesting read :)
djlee_dj
07-06-2007, 17:54
what products + were from..... got the welding done today. within the next few weeks i want to do this
i would appricate everything i would need , like wire brush(s) ? products ... de-greaser/waxoyl or k-rust etc ? and were from ?
im a complete noob to this so dont know were to start.
can get a compressor + waxoyl gun with a 'rod' extension
thanks :)
thanks.
If you read the thread that Petrol posted to it's all in there :)
djlee_dj
07-06-2007, 21:32
it refers to waxoyl. i read somewhere before there was something better, but also did not see were to get it from well priced.
also read somewhere, degrease it - then k-rust it- then enamel paint it - then waxoyl
os something like that
i want a basic undercoating that will kill + keep away rust the most effective + cheapish and ease of use etc.
i want a basic undercoating that will kill + keep away rust the most effective + cheapish and ease of use etc.
We all want that mate :) Unfortunately it hasn’t been made yet :no:
Different products serve different purposes, wax for example, is best used inside box sections but I wouldn’t recommend using a box section wax under the arches :no:
Anyone tried this stuff?
http://www.mikesander.co.uk/
John Bennett
09-06-2007, 00:41
I asked a mate working for a major paint manufacturers what the best rust-proofing paint they did was - he's going to get me a couple of litres of this stuff :D (for £20)
http://www.olicon.com.pl/produkty/interplus_256_br.pdf
If you can paint oil rigs sat in the North Sea with it, it's got to work reasonably well on a car :D .
edit: Oh and I'm not intending to flood the sills with it :wack: - I was thinking of using it on the underside - soz for any confusion, I suppose I posted it on the wrong thread :o
Sideways Danny
09-06-2007, 00:46
I asked a mate working for a major paint manufacturers what the best rust-proofing paint they did was - he's going to get me a couple of litres of this stuff :D (for £20)
http://www.olicon.com.pl/produkty/interplus_256_br.pdf
If you can paint oil rigs sat in the North Sea with it, it's got to work reasonably well on a car :D .
but will it stand upto a russian winter?
I can get stuff that IS used in russian winter in the baltic... only prob is might glow in the dark.. :eek: a little bit.. offshore stuff is some of the most hardcore for rust proofing.
For a cheap fix, we could all attach bags of zinc to the car (sacrificial anode protection.. does work)
International paint is good stuff :thumbs: Oh and that's a very good price ;) :D
The primer I am using is 90 odd% zinc and does the sacrificial anode protection jobbie.
The plates a month on :eek:
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Rust%20test/011_090607.jpg
John Bennett
09-06-2007, 18:50
That's pretty shoddy for the waxoyl, if that's what it goes like after a month in the rain :eek:
I don't think the sacrificial anode thing works with a block of zinc strapped to the body - you'd need to park the car underwater to make the circuit.
That's pretty shoddy for the waxoyl, if that's what it goes like after a month in the rain :eek:
I thought the same :nod: I know my test has not been very scientific but I know what I will be flooding my sills with ;) I have done loads of other tests with the Bilt Hamber primer and the Epoxy Mastic from RustBuster...
It would have been nice to test the Dinitrol stuff :whip:
marty_t3
10-06-2007, 03:07
I don't think the sacrificial anode thing works with a block of zinc strapped to the body - you'd need to park the car underwater to make the circuit.
S13's already have sacrificial anodes.... they're called sills.
Well it's 6 weeks ago I started the test and decided to strip the waxy stuff off with solvent to see what was behind. The Dynax is a dark brown and could be hiding corrosion behind it.
As a reminder this is how the plates looked 6 weeks ago. Slight surface rust.
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Rust%20test/001_090507.jpg
Wax removed
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Rust%20test/012_220607.jpg
TBH I thought it would take a lot longer but it just shows how aggressive road salt is :nod: The salt was in a jug topped up with water, I only poured the solution on the plates.
Richy_Boy
26-08-2007, 20:41
Nice info there! :nod: I don't think I'll be using waxoyl for some reason :eek:
Rich
has the dynax killed those rust spots?
red_rider
28-08-2007, 01:19
I Have ordered the detox to remve the rust from wings inner sills and arches etc... One I weild the sills back I will make sure i use the Dynx stuff...
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