View Full Version : Respraying the nose cone
I need to respray the nose cone on my car as the lacquer is all coming off and it looks a bit shocking. Im also going to remove the headlight washer and Nissan badge for which Ive got some fibreglass and filler ready.
What is the best way to rub down the nose to get rid of the lacquer, filler and get it ready for painting?
Fake Ben Taylor
29-03-2007, 11:43
I need to respray the nose cone on my car as the lacquer is all coming off and it looks a bit shocking. Im also going to remove the headlight washer and Nissan badge for which Ive got some fibreglass and filler ready.
What is the best way to rub down the nose to get rid of the lacquer, filler and get it ready for painting?
i would have thought some good old scothbrite pad and albow grease:nod:
dont need to take the paint of completely just key it and remove the last of the loose laquer
Sand it down with something like P200 to remove all old lacquer / filler... then follow up with P400 / P800 and P1200 papers...
Use a high build primer then follow up with base coat and lacquer... put plenty of lacquer on then you can flatten it back if you feck it up ;)
Any idea what base coat / lacquer I need... or where to get it from for that matter!
You could grab primers from Halfords mate. No joke. Filler primer, High build primers, conventional primers. Shouldn't take more than a couple of cans worth (change out of £13). Same for your papers as well. In fact, IIRC you can get a project pack of 200, 400, 600, 800, 1200 and 1500 papers for about £6.
Paint, hmmm, well, hit and miss with Halfords based on stores. Go somewhere "proper" :wack:
Any idea what base coat / lacquer I need... or where to get it from for that matter!
Your local supplier should be able to help you out with the paint etc. These guys are mine http://www.jawel.co.uk/
Don't get rattle cans from Halfords, they are shite and you wouldn't want to paint something as big as a nosecone with cans anyway. Buy/borrow a compressor and spray gun.
Or, take it down to your local bodyshop and get a quote for them to do it. IIRC mine cost about 70 quid including filling the headlight holes.
Autopaint mate... they will supply it anyway you want it and custom matched also... :)
Best stuff I have used...
I would be happy to spray the bumper for you using my compressor if you supply the paint ;)
I would be happy to spray the bumper for you using my compressor if you supply the paint ;)
That would be cool (as you were looking for panels to practice on) but I need to have it done before next wednesday :wack:
That would be cool (as you were looking for panels to practice on) but I need to have it done before next wednesday :wack:
LOL - thats too short notice unfortunately... I am working most of weekend and all week...
Yeah, thought that might be an problem. Ill just have to see if I can sweet talk Marty_T3 into doing it as he's had more spraying expiracnce than me (e.g. none)
Been spending the past few weeks doing the mecanicals and not thinking much about the cosmetics.
Foook, 5 hours to just get the crappy lacquer off! Now I know why resprays cost so much. And ive not even started smoothing it out with anything over 180 yet :/
Jon-s14a
01-04-2007, 18:58
sorry to highjack, but how long do you wait between base coat and then spraying laquer? til its dry or do you laquer it whilst its still tacky :confused:
So .... Pics now its done?
sorry to highjack, but how long do you wait between base coat and then spraying laquer? til its dry or do you laquer it whilst its still tacky :confused:
Lacquer whilst base coat is tacky to allow it to 'bond' ...
Do you need to sand the basecoat prior to applying the lacquer?
Going to be tricky to sand somethng thats still tacky :wack:
Acording to the guy at Autopaint this is what had not happened with my nose cone when it had been sprayed. The base had dried to much so the lacqure had not boned to it properly and it was all flacking off.
It has reacted strangly in places though. Im sure Marty will be along in a bit with some close up pics as he was baffled as to why it has done what it has.
Oh my nose now.. :D
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=44187&stc=1&d=1175513848
Better :nod: It's always been a bit Singing Detective.
Smart-Tech
03-04-2007, 12:26
Lacquer whilst base coat is tacky to allow it to 'bond' ...
Depends on the basecoat. Some require wet on wet others require curing. Try lacquering over waterbase when it's wet and you will get major problems with lift/bloom/solvent burst.
Depends on the basecoat. Some require wet on wet others require curing. Try lacquering over waterbase when it's wet and you will get major problems with lift/bloom/solvent burst.
I went with the same information Yak was told at Autopaint and it worked :thumbs:
If ever in doubt I always ask the paint factor :nod:
Sand it down with something like P200 to remove all old lacquer / filler... then follow up with P400 / P800 and P1200 papers...
Use a high build primer then follow up with base coat and lacquer... put plenty of lacquer on then you can flatten it back if you feck it up ;)
In my limited experience I'd disagree with this.
I have always prepped with 400, maybe coarser if necessary, but finished with 400, then primed, this gives a decent key then.
Then wet flat the primer with 800 for solids, 1200 for metallics :)
As long as you got good results Yak I'm sure it's all good :)
marty_t3
11-04-2007, 00:15
The respray on Yaks was a bit of a mixed bag really.
Sanded down and prep'd for primer with 400grit. High build primer went on fine and was then rubbed down with 600grit.
The basecoat went on ok but the paint drops looked to be a bit larger than normal. Was using the gravity fed gun that comes with the "aldi special" compressor. I tweaked it a little for paint volume and fan but the droplet size didn't seem to change much. Air pressure was set to about 30psi. Once a few layers of basecoat had gone on there appeared to be a faint colour difference on certain patches of the bumper. At first i thought it was where there was filler under the primer but it happened on a few other areas that weren't filled. The last few coats of paint were done with a little extra thinners and at a higher pressure to try and get rid of the orangepeel effect. It worked to an extent but ended up with a few runs on the underside of the bumper (fortunately some of them ran off onto the masking tape so not too obvious :wack: ).
We left the basecoat for 45 minutes before starting on the laquer. The gun seemed to be applying the laquer far to thick no matter what i did with it. Instead of getting 6 coats i only managed 3 or 4 out of 3/4 of a litre.
Once the laquer started to dry a bit there was an obvious "sink" in the level of the laquer in the exact same spots where the colour difference had shown up in the basecoat. :confused:
A few days later it was wet sanded with 1200grit then 2000grit and polished with G6. I only did the top half of the bumper due to running out of time again. There's almost no orange peel and it looks nice and shiney but the "sunken" areas are still pretty obvious (look just above the 130 on the reg plate and you can see where the sunken area catches the light).
Any more pics of the bint ? :D
That aldi supplied gun is shite though, I'm not going to bother using mine, you can get far better for a not a lot of money.
Do you not find 30psi a little low Marty? I'd have thought you'd want it a bit higher than that with a conventional gun to get good atomisation.
Seems strange about the shrinking, are you sure it's not just mapping due to filler? Maybe another coat of high build and flatting back again would;ve sorted it?
Still, looks good from the pictures :)
Well its was cleaner than the other guns Marty had and the hose on my compressor was not prerrished so we he used my gun and compressor.
Im happy with the results though id like to know why those things happened. Very odd.
Unfortuanly now after TA round one... the bumper has a good few bollard scars when monstering the kerbs at goddards (also mashed the edge of the splitter and put a impact mark in martys bonnet :o )
marty_t3
11-04-2007, 20:33
Well its was cleaner than the other guns Marty had and the hose on my compressor was not prerrished so we he used my gun and compressor.
Im happy with the results though id like to know why those things happened. Very odd.
Unfortuanly now after TA round one... the bumper has a good few bollard scars when monstering the kerbs at goddards (also mashed the edge of the splitter and put a impact mark in martys bonnet :o )
No worries there. I reckon just keying the laquer and another blast of basecoat and laquer should sort out the sunken areas. We can touch up the fresh scars at the same time (unless you want to keep them as trophies :D )
No worries about the bonnet either, the Apex sticker covers the existing dent nicely so a few additional dints and scrapes won't do it any harm :)
Top man Marty :notworthy others may be concerned about a little shatter mark on the loaned bonnet :thumbs:
He aint seen it yet :o
Its only tiny ;)
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