View Full Version : The revival.....
As mentioned recently my S13 is getting a bit worse for wear (superficially) and I haven't used it since decemeber when the turbo started to get too smoky. I've got a garage full of bits that I've gathered and just not had time to fit (to much DIY at the mo :( ).
I have a list of things to fit (in this order) as follows:
T25G
FMIC
Walbro
HKS EVC IV
Gauges
Rear Brace
Spare tailgate to be filled, painted & fitted
R32 GTR to be flatted, painted & fitted
180SX OEM Skirts to be flatted, painted & fitted
180SX rear bumper to be flatted, painted & fitted
Dent in rear quarter pulled out, elec aerial straightened
ANy other touch ups to bodywork
Whole car buffed :cool:
Geometry setup
err, probably other stuff I've forgotten, but hopefully she should start to feel a lot better and look the part as she used to :
Had been working on missus' Celica today (seized caliper), but after not properly fixing it and waiting for the brake to cool down again :rolleyes: I decided to jack up the S13 and make a start.
As you can see, she's starting to look pretty sorry :( Click thumbs to make them bigger.
http://img116.imageshack.us/img116/6982/s13revival001fe7.th.jpg (http://img116.imageshack.us/my.php?image=s13revival001fe7.jpg)
http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/646/s13revival002sy9.th.jpg (http://img253.imageshack.us/my.php?image=s13revival002sy9.jpg)
How pink the bonnet & door are :eek:
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/6629/s13revival003sr5.th.jpg (http://img256.imageshack.us/my.php?image=s13revival003sr5.jpg)
Something else that was never finsihed :rolleyes:
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/4729/s13revival004zm3.th.jpg (http://img267.imageshack.us/my.php?image=s13revival004zm3.jpg)
Just need a quick polish!!
So, as I'll be getting underneath her and also have a shiny FMIC to fit, the bumper was first to come off. Oh, and I didn't break any of the bolts :D
http://img409.imageshack.us/img409/7543/s13revival006hj0.th.jpg (http://img409.imageshack.us/my.php?image=s13revival006hj0.jpg)
Brakes had now cooled on the Celica so I went to have another play with that, then as I was tidying tools up, decided to pull a few more bits off in readiness of the turbo change & FMIC :)
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/662/s13revival007rp0.th.jpg (http://img441.imageshack.us/my.php?image=s13revival007rp0.jpg)
Getting a bit dark now so will have to continue tomorrow.....
your pics aint working!:)
hmm, what's going on there........
They still don't work but the links do now till yo get a chance to tag them properly
just get the boot sprayed then get MR OCD on the case:thumbs: you'll have a nice shiney red s13 for the summer:smitten:
your links are working now:thumbs:
It won't let me IMG tag them, imageshack have changed the way they host stuff now so maybe I have to do them their way, small image that links to full size image.
go with photobucket:thumbs: always works for me;)
On a course this week so finsihing at 4.30pm rather than 2pm which isn't ideal, but I still had enough day light to remove all but 1 of the manifold nuts (left a couple of top ones on loose to keep it held). Have left what looks like the hardest one til last, underneath furthest back.
Hopefully get that and the feeds off tomorrow, then I can start swapping them over :)
Right, managed to find a couple of hours spare yesterday so finished removing the T25 & manifold, also ripped old ic out.
Left with this, yay :)
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/7571/revival001lt1.jpg
Stripped turbo, mani, etc down to check gaskets, they weren't as bad as I thought, although a few of the elbow nuts had come undone, and it looked like a previous owner had tried to reseal the turbo-mani gasket with exhaust paste :no:
Bit of side-side, but no in out, although it was a bit of a smoker.
Not to worry as I have a nice T25G to go on, here's a few comparison pics, T25G on the left
http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/9895/revival002lw8.jpg
http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/9236/revival003yd5.jpg
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/6936/revival005dn1.jpg
One thing, what is the bracket for close to where the actuator bracket would be - I can't remember :rolleyes: just wondering if I can bin it or not!!
Now at this point I was going to put some pics up of me rotating the core of The T25G so the feeds lined up, but it looks like it's maybe been done before.
Are these close enough, or does it need to be spot on aligned? T25 left, T25G right
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/6928/revival006zg1.jpg
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/6651/revival007bc0.jpg
I'd reckon it was close enough, but then don't know how far out they are in the first place. It could maybe be rotated a bit more to get it bang on, but is it necessary?
Anyway, until I've sorted out my new gaskets the re-fit is on hold, so I'll clean up all the mating faces in readiness.
As it was a nice day I thought I'd get the big box out I've had for a while and start fitting shiny bits :)
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/6407/revival008ev1.jpg
Started to fit core, but not convinced about the brackets, probably need a bit of fettling, plus I don't have a big enough holesaw to hand, so decided I'd carry on tomorrow, had to go to gym anyway.
Coming along, slowly :rolleyes:
it's all going to plan then..........boxes of new shiney things!:smitten:
Had a couple of hours spare after work today, so cracked on with what I could.
After finishing removing the towing eye, I mounted the IC core. Had to bend the brackets to get it to fit right, and it seems others have used the brackets the other way around so I may have bumper fitting issues, not sure yet
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/447/revival009qi7.jpg
http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/1724/revival011px2.jpg
Then I took this:
http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/4459/revival013ya7.jpg
And made this :)
http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/2627/revival014kg5.jpg
Quick deburr, and then trial fitted the coldside pipework, sorry for shite pics, with flash on it looked like nightitme, with dusk setting it washed everything out!!
http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/5585/revival015ma3.jpg
http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/4466/revival016eb4.jpg
Tomorrow I'll paint the hole in the battery tray, and use some pipe around the hole to stop it scratching the pipework. Might trial fit the bumper just to make sure it sits OK with the brackets the way I have them, can trim that as well then.
No point doing hot side as I have no turbo at the mo :wack:
Still got to fit my EVC IV and the Walbro, hopefully over the next couple of days :)
Not much happening over the weekend, finally sorted the Celica's brakes, then fitted an induction kit to my brothers Golf GTI, then worked & played football today so didn't have loads of time spare.
Got round to fitting my Walbro this afternoon today though, I'm sure most of you know the score with these, very easy to swap (especially if you buy a 2nd hand one already on the hanger ;) ).
Started here
http://img481.imageshack.us/img481/7065/gauges001cx6.jpg
Quick penetrate with WD40, then left the small bolts underneath soaking in WD40 for a minute or so, removed the old pump, in fairness it took the most time just getting the pipes off!!
Out with the old, in with the better :) Should I have swapped the big filter from my old one to the walbro (right), as I didn't bother!!??
http://img487.imageshack.us/img487/544/gauges002wg9.jpg
Then trimmed old o-ring to give tight fit, all back in and finished :)
http://img392.imageshack.us/img392/3932/gauges003pf5.jpg
Hoping it works OK after sitting in my garage for a while, can't start the car at the mo for obviosu reasons, although I suppose I could hook the battery back up and try priming it.
Re-fitted my cold side pipework after flipping the IC brackets over so it sat higher, trial fitted the hot side and all looks OK.
Hopefully have some gaskets with me monday or tuesday, so can get the turbo on, then it won't be far away from running again.
Got some new gauges on the way as well :cool:
Looking good :thumbs:
I wouldn’t worry about it being stood for a while. Mine was stood outside for 5 months and cracked up first time. Might be an idea to remove the fuel pump fuse and crank it until the oil light goes out first :)
Good to hear :thumbs:
I'd love to give it as much TLC as you did with yours but I don't have much time to work on it each day and can't afford to be without a car for much longer!! She is very tidy underneath do from where it has been underselaed before, although I am going to have to investigate some rust on the drivers turret, and weld up if necessary.
Look what came through the post this morning (Thanks Andy & Bren) :)
http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/9817/revivalyn2.jpg
Should be able to get it all back on throughout the week if I can grab the odd hour in the mornings :D
Although I seem to have mislaid my braided oil line, I'm always losing stuff!!
Had a bit of spare time between jobs at work tonight so knocked this up:
http://img469.imageshack.us/img469/3209/revival017lm0.jpg
So that my EVC IV can fit in the DIN slot below the stereo:
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/5852/revival018ay0.jpg
Used a little bracket to support it using the case screws:
http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/6154/revival019hg1.jpg
Tomorrow I'll paint it satin black so it blends in with the interior then give it a test fit.
Thinking about retaining the flap if possible so I can have flap down when I want to use the EVC, then hide it away when not in use :)
Thought I'd bolt the turbo/mani, etc back together today and get it ready to go on.
Previous had used exhaust sealant on some of the faces so it took quite a bit of time with some emery cloth and a block to get them reasonably clean...
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/6836/revival020sw0.jpg
Noticed that the divider in the manifold has a crack in it, hasn't spread to outside though, is this fairly normal? The old T25 had a crack in exhaust housing as well between wastegate flap and housing.
Thought the core was suitable rotated but alas, it was not :(
http://img83.imageshack.us/img83/8753/revival021ux9.jpg
Core looks to be OK, but the compressor housing needs to come round a bit (as Andy warned me!!), unfortunately the circlip pliers I have here aren't large enough so I'll have to get some from work later :( Oh well. Perhaps I'll get it on tomorrow.
What have most people done to prevent nuts coming loose? I've got a load of new stainless nuts, and I was going to use Loctite 270 Studlock as well as double nut the 4 turbo ones.
In the meantime I painted the EVC plate satin black, got a bit of shit in it but it's good enough :)
http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/1369/revival022na5.jpg
Soon be off to work so haven't really got time to fit it before I leave, but I'm sure it'll be fine.
Might even have it runable by the weekend if I pull my finger out!
Not a lot to mention tonight :no:
The large circlip pliers at work had gone walkabout :rolleyes: borrowed some larger ones but they aren't big enough. Two of the core bolts are solid as a rock as well, so I'll have to find some mahoosive circlip pliers. Might see what my motor factors have in stock tomorrow.
One of the core bolts that is stuck solid isn't all the way home, will this cause a problem even if the other 3 are done up OK?
On the plus side I drilled/tapped my compressor elbow and fitted a hose connector ready to be connected into the EVC :)
So until I can sort out rotating the compressor housing I'm at a loose end :(
Might have to look at routing wiring for EVC and test mounting it tomorrow, shame my gauges haven't arrived yet as I could fit those as well.
where did you get the 180sx skirts mate? i want some :)
I got them from SteveSadler on here who got them from AlsJunkyard I beleive, I thought about the Type-X ones but they were more money and in the end I preferred the 180sx ones as they match the original lines so well :nod:
Decided to mount my EVC IV today, so pulled out the double DIN unit:
http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/9387/revival024mj7.jpg
Had to junk the idea of putting it behind the flap as it wouldn't really open far enough to view & operate it very well. So removed the flap and cut part of the back away to allow the loom to pass through:
http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/9886/revival025en8.jpg
Then I put it back together in the cage and re-fitted into car, what do you reckon? Sorry for the dusty interior :(
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/4277/revival026qs6.jpg
Will wire it up tomorrow as I forgot to bring some crimps & crimper home from work, plus I'm not sure where my soldering iron is either!!
Here is the boost take off I fitted to the compressor elbow, used loctite pipe sealant in the joint so it shouldn't leak, probably never get it out again either!!
http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/1210/revival023at4.jpg
Razzario
15-03-2007, 11:48
looks good, my turbo's coming off again soon, those pics reminded me how much fun it is
haha, it'll be easier now I have all the shite heat shields removed :nod:
Lugged the Turbo & manifold into work today, that was fun cycling to work with that on my back :rolleyes:
The big adjustable circlip pliers in the workshop were not man enough :no:
so I doused the circlip area in Plus Gas/WD40, bolted the manifold to my bench and knocked the compressor housing around with a mallet, worked fine :)
Fitted the manifold fine then, but had to modify actuator bracket, as I've been told the actuator rod needs to be straight.
Does this look OK from the pictures for angle of actuator, etc? I'm going to have to put a low profile bolt in place of the compressor elbow as the std one touches the actuator rod as it is. Also it feels like when I do the bracket up there is tension being put on the actuator spring, is that normal? Will it effect my std boost setting?
Here's some pics anyway:
http://img455.imageshack.us/img455/1791/revival028lv5.jpg
http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/5272/revival030pk6.jpg
http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/8990/revival032fv6.jpg
So does the actuator line look OK, or do I need to do some more fettling!!??
Just been reading about Walbro's and needing the OEM sock otherwise pickup depth is not to bottom of tank (knew there was a reason!!).
Should I have swapped or will I be OK?
Walbro on right, OEM on left
http://img487.imageshack.us/img487/544/gauges002wg9.jpg
^ :wave: :(
Anyway, had to go out and buy a bathroom this morningm then was messing about with the Celicas clutch, so only had a little while to play with the S13 today :(
Got the turbo, manifold, etc all back together though :)
http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/4610/revival035yt6.jpg
Installed the water pipes in engine bay, just need to give the head faces a quick clean up and the downpipe then I'm ready to slot it all back in :) Although tomorrow being mothers day I may be a bit tied up!!
One thing though, the oil feed was one from Apex (I bought new 2nd hand) and the banjo bolt was not very long, only about 4 threads showing once through the banjo & both washers. Does that sound about right? My water ones have loads of thread sticking out. It seemed to tighten up OK.
Happen to have a battery place up the road from me so popped in there this morning to try to find a small battery, and came away with this :)
http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/7886/revival036sg3.jpg
Perfect fit, but I'm a bit worried about clearance between negative terminal (front) and bonnet, it's the same height as old one ~ 220mm but obviosuly the terminals were both at the back on the old one. Hopefully it'll be OK.
Yay!! I'm happy to say that I now have my turbo back on after an hour of fiddling in the cold :) Not done the feeds yet, but I'm happy to say that the PIA lower rear mani nut was an absolute piece of piss :)
Once I'd fiddled about with mani on loose and got the washer on and nut started, pulled the mani up tight with a couple of other nuts, spun the rear one up finger tight, then from above with a short 9/16" spanner (lost my short 14!!) there was loads of room to spin it with left hand and guide with right, reaching down either side of turbo, much more room than from working below as I did when I took it off. Fully remmoved water lines (braided) and heat shields helped I think.
Trouble is, I've lost 3 of the thick washers - are they essential? If so I'll get some, but if not then :cool: I've left 3 of the easy access ones without them in case I need to fit them.
Well, turned some washers up as I guessed they were needed to spread the load.
As I say, tubby all in now. I know a few on here have wondered where the long water hose that HS supply connects to, well it's here:
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/7117/revival041rf5.jpg
Comes from a y splitter on back of manifold, I just cut the old water pipe near to block then left it running behind head, then cut water hose & joined as above.
Bought some cheap silicone tube from egay, although I hope it's up to the job, it seemed a little soft/flexy. Is this normal for small silicone hose? DOn;t want it to bulge under boost.
Anyway, plumbed in my EVC IV
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/6048/revival042od6.jpg
Notice that my IC pipework has fell short, might have to see if Bren can sort anything out for this, probably due to the T25G :rolleyes:
For some reason I bought 2m of 6mm silicone when I only needed about 30cm!! and 1m of 4mm, which turned out to be a short 1m and not quite long enough to get to my preferred choice of post tb plenum connections (red), so can I use either of these lines further back (yellow)?
http://img129.imageshack.us/img129/7566/revival043iv6.jpg
Had to sort out a supply to the EVC and as I didn't have a loom other than the box connectors and the stepper motor loom I decided to pick up a supply from the stereo loom
http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/9776/revival045fb4.jpg
Soldered on like so...... (I know they are large but they had to suit the crimps I needed!)
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/104/revival046tk1.jpg
Bit of heatshrink and some crimps, and it's all good :)
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/3552/revival048tf8.jpg
idn't power it up as I have the battery off, although I have powered it up at work & it was fine :)
Got tomorrow of work so hopefully re-fill coolant & oil and give her a startup :eek:
Hoping my new gauges will turn up soon as well :D
:( :( Feels like I'm talking to myself!!
Will I be able to T into one of the pipes above (yellow)? I presume it will be fine but not sure what's on the end of it.
top work mate:thumbs: ,and doing it all yourself takes some doing:notworthy , when it's finished and looking spanking people will notice:nod: oh yeah:D
get a full membership and have this thread moved to the projects section:thumbs:
Yeah, I keep meaning to renew my membership :rolleyes:
OMG :eek: can't believe I even suggested it!! Should've realised at the time that those two are the fuel lines!!
I'll just T into it near the carbon canister (front right of bay?) as the EVC step motor is close to that and keeps the runs short :)
:( :( Feels like I'm talking to myself!!
:(
Just caught up on this thread. Good idea to make some new washers for the manifold. Like you say they spread the load. I bought a Blitz boost controller and the silicone hose that came with it was a bit soft. It was OK though and I don’t think you have anything to worry about.
I use the sock Walbro supplied.
Alas, I can no longer run my petrol an inch into the red!! I thought I could and I booted it one day, only to find my car chugging and struggling to get moving!! I crawled all the way home :(
Well things are looking really good looked at the photo,s everything looks good I had to modify the bracket of the actuator and mine is at a slight angle alot more than your,s and I dont have an issue with the boost:thumbs: :thumbs:
Good, good :)
Walbro - I think may swap over to the original sock as it does seem to sit lower in tank.
Picked up the vac feed for the EVC down by the carbon canister in the end, was going to bin it but with my silcone being a touch to short to get to the nipple I decided to T into it right close to the EVC.
Andy, thanks for the comments, can't wait to try it - strange thing is I had today off work, yet felt no realy urge to do anything!! I had a bit of a job getting my braided water lines on but this may have been down to core rotation not being spot on, that and that they seem mm peferct length wise! Did you use the std T25G actuator? Wondering what boost it runs standard.
Bren is sorting me out with a coupler to sort out the hot side FMIC pipework so that's all good :thumbs:
Started to flush the coolant system today, so will fill that up tomorrow. Need to find some decent oil local over the weekend as well, then I can start her up :eek: Think I'll change the plugs as well, as they're about due.
Hope she runs OK!!
Tried the battery with the bonnet shut today and amazingly it doesn't touch :thumbs: It would've only been the negative terminal anyway.
Picked up these from the PO today :)
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/4148/revival051ze1.jpg
Fitted the senders & plugs, used a little PTFE to be sure. There was the odd small burr that needed removing from the sandwich plate, didn;t want it getting in the oil.
http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/1537/revival052qo6.jpg
Fitted it like so, seemed like best position to access the sensors
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/1333/revival054wv4.jpg
Then had to get dinner ready & go to work so couldn't mount the gauges, hopefully get chance over the week. Now I can fill it up with oil, replace the 'stat (got one over weekend) and refill the coolant.
Then it's systems go :)
200sxslide
27-03-2007, 12:17
hi mate looking good nice tailgate sure ive sen it before :thumbs: :wack: :thumbs:
Razzario
27-03-2007, 12:18
if you've used ptfe the senders may need earthing :thumbs:
hi mate looking good nice tailgate sure ive sen it before :thumbs: :wack: :thumbs:
Hi mate,
the tailgate I got from you is still in the garage! Getting the bodywork sorted is next priority after getting it running again!!
Razzario, didn't realise this, maybe I should remove the PTFE then, but I'm sure on the oil temp instructions it said to use PTFE.
Look at some of the things I've had turn up over last couple of days :D
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/6100/revival056ro2.jpg
http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/146/revival057ak0.jpg
http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/8161/revival055lx4.jpg
Just waiting on a few other bits and then I'll be able to get to work on the bodywork :D
Looking good mate.:thumbs:
Where abouts did you pick your gauges up from? They look :cool:
Thanks, got the gauges from Xyber Autos as mentioned in the 'fantastic gauges' thread on ebay section.
Razzario, been thinking about sender earthing. As the sandwich plate is coated (anodized?)and uses an o-ring between block/plate then surely it wouldn't be earthed anyway, so no problem with using PTFE on my senders? Maybe!?
nice one with the porter cable:thumbs: I'm waiting for cleanyourcar to get some more in to get one meself,keep us updated with any detail work you do;)
great work mate:) :clap: :sxoc:
I'd fancied one for a while, and it was my birthday the other day so I treated myself :) Just import one via Autopia mate, works out much cheaper and still only took 5 working days to receive it :thumbs:
OK mate thanks I'll look into it:thumbs:
Saw your posts over on Detailing World and noticed you'd just bought a PC. Got the same transformer as you delivered today from Screwfix (using the £20 off code) and I'll order a PC in the next week or 2.
Did you get a discount code to use at Autopia? No need to post any code here, just wondering if there is money off the advertised price.
Good luck with the polishing. :thumbs:
Good thread by the way.
I used a discount code at Autopia, I'll PM it to you.
For the SFX PC pack, 3.5" back plate, 4" SFX1, SFX2, SFX3 pads, shipped came to £139 give or take due to exchange rate which is pretty good considering the packs on ebay are around that price plus post for the PC with DAS pads which aren't as good as the SFX pads, let alone the extra pads, free sonus polish, dvd, etc.
good stuff mate, keep the pics coming, i love these type of threads lol
Good stuff :thumbs: I bought 6" pads and found them too big to get into tight areas. I ended up buying a 4" pads which were far better and a lot easier to polish up to the edges with. Already said but keep the pics coming :)
Cheers Pete, am I right in thinking that the 4" pads cut better as well, due to concentrating the action more? I've got some Menz PO91L IP on the way, as well as some CG EZ Glaze II :) Going to try some SSR2 first but if that doesn't do the business I'll use the Menz.
looking good mate, I bet you cant wait to get it back up and running.
Cheers Pete, am I right in thinking that the 4" pads cut better as well, due to concentrating the action more? I've got some Menz PO91L IP on the way, as well as some CG EZ Glaze II :) Going to try some SSR2 first but if that doesn't do the business I'll use the Menz.
Yes the 4" pads cut more as the pressure is concentrated over a smaller area.
When I did the S14 it was too cold to use SSR2 (it needs heat to break down)so I used Farecla G10 on a 4" yellow pad. Seemed to do the job very well. From my limited experience it's not the cutting that's the the issue, It's removing the marks left by the cutting compound. I have found poorboys pro polish the best for this on a soft pad.
I spoke on the phone to a very respected bloke on the DW forum from Scotland :) The best bit of advice he gave me was "just let the machine do the work – don’t get tensed up, just relax and be methodical” That was good advice :nod: When you start, you will know what he means :)
Hope this helps
OK, thanks pete. Sounds like you spoke to Dave_KG? He has kindly sent me a sample of the Menz that you used :)
I'm sure I've been told that SSR2 on a white pad should finish to LSP though? If there's some marring then I've only got Megs DC#2 polish or the CG EZ Glaze to try to remove it.
So I'm better using the SSR2 on a slightly warmer day?
did you sort the actuator problem out and when are you gonna fire that engine up:nod:
Actuator should be fine mate, I've lost the odd bolt here and there for things like turbo elbow, etc and need to wire in my gauges, but other than that it's close.
I've just been working different shifts this week and been busy with other stuff so had no time :(
Hopefully over the weekend :)
So I'm better using the SSR2 on a slightly warmer day?
It was a bit cold in January but it will be warm enough now.
Well, haven't really done much latel, been short of time and a couple of little jobs needed doing.
Went to fit the air filter/intake pipe ready to start her up and found that by rather lardy Blitz LM filter wouldn't fit where it used to (under the hot pipe) and so I needed to extend the intake pipe to suit.
I had some 70mm ally pipework and wanted a hardpipe anyway.
Avoiding the PAS pipes was awkward but I found a way :) Thought about using silicone reducing elbows either end, but then checked the price and changed my mind ;)
Decided I'd cut & weld it to suit.
Trouble is original T28 inlet stub on mine is steel, and my pipework is ally, so I made a new flange up out of 8mm ally, while I did that a mate of mine turned up a nice reducer to go from the turbo inlet (55mm iirc) to the 70mm pipework. Excuse the pink marker, they're alignment marks.
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/2014/revival079st4.jpg
http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/4318/revival080je7.jpg
The parts were made to be a push fit to aid fitting/lining up, and then the welding.
So then I cut/adjusted things until it sat nicely in the bay (excuse the tape, that's there until it's welded ;) )
http://img124.imageshack.us/img124/4254/revival078sn7.jpg
http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/3259/revival076dv8.jpg
http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/3027/revival075cn2.jpg
So it'll be back into work tomorrow and welded up, by which time hopefully my 70-60mm coupler will have arrived so that I can attach it to the AFM :)
Looks alright doesn't it :D
Started routing my gauge wiring the other day, so I'm about to go out and finish that off while the sun is still shining :)
Razzario
04-04-2007, 16:58
Nice pipework :thumbs:
P.s good point about the anodised coated sandwich plate
Cheers mate, I'll be glad when the thing is running again, the turbo was the quick bit, messing about with all the other little bits I'm doing is taking the time, but if I don't do them now then I'll forget/not bother when it's on the road again :rolleyes:
Yeah, as for the sandwich plate, I'll try it, but ground the senders if they act strange!
Looks alright doesn't it :D
Quality bit of custom fabrication :thumbs: Nice :)
Thanks, hopefully it'll still fit OK once it's been welded!!
Just popped out to solder up the sender wiring I'd left hanging in the arch/wing.
I had already ran the sender wiring from the sandwich plate up to the drivers side sus turret, where I also mounted the boost sensor, there were a pair of holes perfectly spaced on the inner wing so I tie wrapped it in pace, forgot to take a pic, sorry!! Anyway, from there as advised by andy, I went out into the space that would be behind arch liner.
Fed the wiring from the gauges through the large grommet on the bulkhead, into the cabin, had to pull them through on a bit of firm cable as I kept losing them!!
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/3862/revival082fe2.jpg
Then they had to be soldered up & heatshrinked, like so
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/708/revival081xw4.jpg
Then the whole joint was heatshrinked again, unfortunately I had neither a lighter or heatgun at home, so had to use matches, took a while with the breeze :rolleyes:
Then I started to put the gauges/cups together, only to find that one of the visors was a very tight fit, so I went about filing, etc.
Found that ther buffer strip they tell you to fit was the problem so removed most of this and just about got it in, but it was a struggle!! Then I find that the supplied foam adhesive is useless as the gauge doesn;t sit close enough to the cup to touch!! I've left them now, and will have a play tomorrow!
Well, I'm a bit fecked off.
I can weld to a fashion but I'm not very practiced in TIG, never done ally.
Guy who would normally do it for me is off work, and others that have done ally in the past don't want to do it in case they bugger it up!!!
Probably have to wait until tuesday now :(
Probably have to wait until tuesday now :(
Better to wait than have snotty welding :D :)
I suppose, plus my hose joiner hasn't turned up so no bother I suppose. I've left it for my mate to weld up over the weekend as he is in on overtime.
With the weather this nice I might do a bit of prep & paint on some of the bits I have laying around.
Was mostly doing DIY over the weekend but did get chance to mount my new gauges, please ignore the wonky visors, I haven't straightened them all up yet :rolleyes:
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/5730/revival086om3.jpg
Wiring is all in place, just need to re-connect here, and put back the stereo harness, EVC, etc - was going to that this morning but my mum & dad popped round so not enough time.
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/6761/revival087cx4.jpg
Here is the rear of the gauges, apart from the power link wires, the cabling is pretty much hidden :)
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/7163/revival088ui2.jpg
Back to work yesterday, and my good mate had welded my intake pipe up for me over the weekend :)
http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/8492/revival083ml4.jpg
I gave it a quick polish but where the welds have been dressed with a flap disc there are marks over it, so if I was anal I'd wet flat it back then polish, but it'll do as it is :)
All fitted nicely, with room for the hotpipe :D
http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/7502/revival084zz4.jpg
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/8374/revival085sn9.jpg
Dad dropped over some spats for me this morning, but they are larger than I thought they would be so not sure if I'll use them or not.
Got some new wider wheels sorted as well, they're currently white but I'll most likely be re-spraying them - watch this space :)
Soldered all the sender wire & power wire under the dash today, and refitted everything.
http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/1866/revival089hq7.jpg
All working OK, although I still need to sort out those bloody visors! Dimmer worked fine so the gauges go amber for night use :cool: Oh and the pressure gauge was bleeping away at me, warning me of zero pressure :wack:
Forgot to add before, but this is where I fitted the boost sensor, there were two small holes almost made for the job so I just tie-wrapped it in place :)
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/2471/revival093cw6.jpg
These are the spats that I had dropped off yesterday.
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/6898/revival094ke9.jpg
I hadn't originally realised how big they are, they come to just below the fuel filler and are obviously meant to be blended in, like this:
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l103/IKRAMRAMZAN/ReigateHillPics10.jpg
But I don't really want to do that, so I thought about maybe cutting them along the std swage line so the fitted to just below it, but I'm still not sure!! I've taped a line of where I'd cut them.
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/3296/revival095fu3.jpg
Maybe I should ditch them and go with the Type-X ones I wanted originally? Might try it to see how they look, if I don't like them then Type-X :) Just not sure how well these ones will go with my 180sx skirts.
Well after having problems with missus' Celica's clutch, and a slave cylinder not sorting it, I decided to try to get mine useable for her.
So gave everything a final check again, fitted some new plugs, plumbed in the catch can and blocked off any redundant pipework.
She started up first time and idled OK, I left her running to make sure I had no airlocks in coolant, etc.
She did seem to be smoking a little from the exhaust, hopefully it won't be too bad when it's had a run.
Trouble is, something doesn't seem right :( I've started a thread in S13 tech to hopefully get some help! http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?p=3195780#post3195780
Pretty sure strange running symptoms are down to timing. I have sorted a timing light now, but need to find an old HT lead. Hoping the smoke issue is just old oil in exhaust.
As I was a bit pissed off I decided to have a go at the bodywork and test out my new toy.
The front end of the car is pretty faded, and it seems that some of the panels have had (poorish) resprays.
So, it was washed with Megs Gold Class, then bonnet clayed twice, washed again & dried.
Here is how it looks, photos probably make it look better than it was, headlight cover was from where I had a quick go with some SSR2 by hand.
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/9515/pcwork001za9.jpg
http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/5059/pcwork002ic1.jpg
Dabbled with some SSR2 on a 6" SFX-2 pad, but not really up to much and struggling as bit due to drying out quickly, most likely due to the amount of dead paint it had to contend with!
Went with some Menzerna PO91L IP on 6" SFX-1 pad. This seemed to work better, but didn't cut as well as I thought it would on the Jap paint, guessing that due to respray the paint was harder.
So hit the half of the bonnet with the PO91L IP again (twice in total), here are the results:
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/5813/pcwork005ex0.jpg
http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/4215/pcwork006wo7.jpg
So then did the other side with the Menz, took two applications for it to match:
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/7539/pcwork008uz5.jpg
Then followed up with two coats Chemical Guys EZ-Creme Glaze, then 2 coats of Collinite 476S.
By this time the light was fading so I had one shot with the flash, and one with dusk settings, so sorry for quality :(
http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/7282/pcwork010tq3.jpg
http://img478.imageshack.us/img478/9703/pcwork011ww5.jpg
The shine and colour looks good, but in certain light or up close, the peel is too much for me.
I knew the nearside wing had been painted before, and it seems that the bonnet has been painted as well. Maybe more panels at front also.
There is a tight orange peel to the bonnet, which is not present on the roof, there was also the odd bit of dust, scratches, etc. A couple of bird etchings couldn't be removed either.
I may try wet flatting the bonnet, but as I've got a few bits to paint (tailgate, skirts, bumpers, spoiler) I may end up painting the bonnet. Think I'll carry on with rest of car to assess what needs doing then make my mind up!!
In the meantime, hopefully I can find an old HT lead in the garage and sort out my timing issues, hopefully that's all it is!!
Looking good :) Be careful wet flatting especially on resprayed panels :nod: I went through the door on mine and had to respray it :(
I also found that masking tape was not a good idea when I PC'd my S14. The door handles are cast ally and it brought some paint off when I removed it :smash:
One last thing - when you fit the plastic trim to the bottom of the wing use some proper body tape :thumbs:
good work:thumbs: how easy did you find the porter cable to use? looks a big improvement on the bonnet,but I know what you mean about orange peel ruining the look because my s14a has loads of it:cry: the bodyshop is having it back soon to sort it though......but I have pc now and can't wait to get stuck in with it:)
keep it up:notworthy
PC seems OK so far, but obviously I have a lot to learn as it didn't remove the marks quite as easilly as I thought it would.
It removed the oxidation easilly, but due to the amount of dead paint that as lifted it quickly clogged/dried the pads, which made the first few passes difficult, but some QD helped. Definately preferred the Menzerna to the SSR2 though. I think I was using a bit too much of a large area as well, basically split the bonnet in four, but for cutting I think I should;ve used smaller areas.
It's a steep learning curve!
I reckon I'll end up painting the bonnet. I've seen worse, but now I've cut & buffed it, all the little blemishes seem worse!! It does look like it is full of dust as well, and the peel is like a large flat peel (not far off normal OEM finishes) but within that it seems to have a tight peel as if it has dried too quickly. I may wetflat a small section to see how much better it can get, as it may save me the bother of painting it. Will be intersting to see how the other panels turn out. I know it's had some paint on one of the quarters as well!!
Thanks for the tips Pete, I've done some wet flatting after a respray before and was OK, but always dubious about unknown work!! Also, looks like the wing trims were held on with body tape originally as well as the lugs, so will indeed use some more when they go back :thumbs:
Well I put the poor running down to misfire, which I sort of cured by cleaning up the coilpack contacts and pulling the springs a little.
Checked timing and with CAS in middle it was retarded (compared to 15' BTDC) and to get 15' BTDC I had to rotate CAS nearly fully anti-clockwise.
I guess this is pointing to a cambelt problem? I'll take the covers off tomorrow and count the teeth between marks.
With the misfire sorted it revved better without engine shaking, although it does keep nearly dieing at idle.
Took it for a run and was OK for a while, before a really loud knocking noise on the front :( Limped home cursing about what it could be. Got her in the air and found I hadn't done the front wheels nuts up tight :rolleyes:
Back out for another run and she is smoking quite a bit on idle, white smoke. Also, water temp gauge isn;t moving, at 80'C oil temp there was nothing on the water temp gauge, although heaters worked and expansion bottle not boiling over.
Next problem is that the breathers to the oil catch tank seemed to have a lot of moisture in them. The filter on the catch can was spitting water at times, and I'd only gone a couple of miles up the road. Is this pointing to a problem, linked with the white smoke?
Apart from that, the T25G is far more responsive than my old T25, probably due to the nackered gaskets as it's much quiter to. Get to 0.5bar very quickly (std boost for that actuator, haven't dabbled with the EVC yet). Also make some funky new compressor surge noises due to the hard intake :)
Just a shame things still don;t seem quite right. I keep telling myself I can hear a rattle as well, but maybe I'm kicking myself while I'm down!!
Any help with above issues would be great :thumbs:
Checked timing and with CAS in middle it was retarded (compared to 15' BTDC) and to get 15' BTDC I had to rotate CAS nearly fully anti-clockwise.
I guess this is pointing to a cambelt problem?
Not necessarily I'm afraid, could be worn cas splines or worn woodruff key in the crank
With the misfire sorted it revved better without engine shaking, although it does keep nearly dieing at idle.
Still sounds timing related problem
Took it for a run and was OK for a while, before a really loud knocking noise on the front :( Limped home cursing about what it could be. Got her in the air and found I hadn't done the front wheels nuts up tight :rolleyes:
OOPS :wack:
Back out for another run and she is smoking quite a bit on idle, white smoke. Also, water temp gauge isn;t moving, at 80'C oil temp there was nothing on the water temp gauge, although heaters worked and expansion bottle not boiling over.
Been sitting for a while? Could just be burning the shite out of the system
Next problem is that the breathers to
Just a shame things still don;t seem quite right. I keep telling myself I can hear a rattle as well, but maybe I'm kicking myself while I'm down!!
Fingers crossed then :wack:
:)
Hmmm, thanks for that arry!! I'll take a look at CAS splines, cambelt, etc tomorrow, just wanted to take it for a run really!!
The low idle never used to be there. Also, what about the water temp gauge? I'm a bit concerned by this as over winter, just before I took it off road the heaters stopped working and wondered if I had a coolant system issue. I flushed it, replaced fluid & fitted new stat - should any airlock work it's way out to expansion bottle after a run or do I need to bleed it a better way?
Checked timing and with CAS in middle it was retarded (compared to 15' BTDC) and to get 15' BTDC I had to rotate CAS nearly fully anti-clockwise.
I guess this is pointing to a cambelt problem? I'll take the covers off tomorrow and count the teeth between marks.
LOL I have the T- Shirt and cap on this one :D
When I checked the ignition timing after fitting a new cam belt I had the same problem. The Cas had to be rotated almost fully anticlockwise to get the ign timing to 15 degs. I took the Cas out to inspect the splines but they were OK. It turned out that the cam belt was a tooth out on the crank pulley. My advice would be to line the crank up looking from underneath the car rather than from the top.
Good luck :)
OK mate, thanks, how is best to check it then? So many teeth between crank pulley and one of the cam pulleys? Is it easy enough to check with just removing the covers or do I need to remove other stuff like th rad fan?
This is what the belt looked like from the top when it was a tooth out
http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S13No2/Pics/691.jpg
I used a nissan belt with markers on it but counting the teeth is pointless if the crank isn't in the right place :o IIRC I took the rad and fan out again - in the pouring rain as I was so annoyed with myself. You really need to make sure the alignment of the crank is correct and check it from underneath :nod:
Hope this helps :)
Originally Posted by Hallsy
Checked timing and with CAS in middle it was retarded (compared to 15' BTDC) and to get 15' BTDC I had to rotate CAS nearly fully anti-clockwise.
I guess this is pointing to a cambelt problem?
Not necessarily I'm afraid, could be worn cas splines or worn woodruff key in the crank
Woodruff keys shouldn't wear? There's no load on them or anything, they're purely for alignment of parts. Bolting things on at the right torque holds them still, woodruffs don't take any abuse :)
It has happened before though base-1, causing timing issues. I'm still guessing engine timing is out, will be checking this morning :)
Fake Ben Taylor
23-04-2007, 08:07
love the pipe for the air filter :nod:
fancy knocking some more up? ;) :nod:
Thanks, I would, but I sold the rest of the bends I had so don't have anything left :(
Glad to see you finally got it up and running I,m still trying to get this stupid controller of mine sorted so will be interesting to compare the difference between the 2 once theyre both running the same boost
Yeah, will be fun setting the EVC up :)
Haven't checked the engine timing yet.....tomorrow ;)
Popped over SteveC's this morning, and after seeing him, Jack & Daz working away on Jack's S13 it gave me the bug to get home and fiddle with mine!
As the sun was out I decided to prep a few bits. First off, 180sx rear bumper & skirts:
http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/5614/revival112lv1.jpg
Just a quick wet flat to show up any imperfections that need filling.
Both skirts had some minor damage.
This bit where someone has previously repaired, poorly:
http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/3483/revival113fd3.jpg
And the other one had a split in it:
http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/9116/revival115wl1.jpg
So I drilled a small hole either end of the crack to stop it spreading:
http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/8008/revival116pq3.jpg
And used a couple of layers of matting on the inside to strengthen it, ready for a filler:
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/1707/revival117es8.jpg
While that was going off I attended to the 'battle scars' on the bumper:
http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/4897/revival118am1.jpg
Then went back to skirts to put a little filler in and it had already started to go off :mad: Got enough in to start though.
Will flat the filler off tomorrow and give them all a final once over, then all being well I'll get some primer on them :)
After that it was still sunny enough to prep my spoiler as well:
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/826/revival119zx4.jpg
The front bumper could do with coming off again & being painted as it's a bit scabby, but I keep telling myself I want a Uras N+ front. Didn't help seeing steve's today either :smitten:
Can't afford it til next month though, already shelled out for Apex coilovers, Cusco camber arms & tension rods and some G-force toe arms :D
Went into work this morning :(
Then when I got back I had to do a bit of plasterboarding in the bathroom, then after that I didn;t really feel like rubbing down filler!
So as I had my pre-face splitter kicking about and the bumper needed to come off again I thought why not......
Original splitter was held on with some obsenely rusty nuts! Had to grind them off!
Lined up pre-face with centre hole, then fixed using some tie-wraps :) Also tidied up the IC cutout on the bumper with a Dremel.
Now lately I decided I didn't like the pre-face splitter on a facelift, something doesn;t always look quite right.
I know it's a bit scabby and thw rong colour, but on first look I don't think it looks too bad
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/7536/revival120pl0.jpg
http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/7453/revival121up1.jpg
http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/4913/revival122cp7.jpg
I think I'll paint it & try it. It'll keep the Uras N+ at bay until next month at least ;)
Some of my pics stopped working, but I think I've sorted it!!
I was soooooo close to just biting the bullet and ordering the Uras bumper today, but I just about managed to control myself!!
Need to look at the front from a distance to see if I can live with the pre-face mod for a bit.
Get some paint lashed on :smash:
I know, I know :rolleyes:
Trouble is I'm partway through renovating my upstairs bathroom as well, and it's all coming to a head!! Want to have it done & out of the way this weekend but still need to skim 2 walls & a ceiling before I can even think about starting the plumbing/tiling!!
I'm just getting by on finsihing a little bit of prep day by day as I have time, but want to paint all the bits at once, to save on time, materials, etc.
I know, I know :rolleyes:
Trouble is I'm partway through renovating my upstairs bathroom as well, and it's all coming to a head!! Want to have it done & out of the way this weekend but still need to skim 2 walls & a ceiling before I can even think about starting the plumbing/tiling!!
I'm just getting by on finsihing a little bit of prep day by day as I have time, but want to paint all the bits at once, to save on time, materials, etc.
Blimey, you ARE busy :nod: TBH it is a good idea to paint all the bits at once, mixed paint can't be re used and cleaning the gun out uses loads of thinners, been there done that :(
Exacery ;)
Yeah, quite busy at the mo, plus the weather has turned shite!
Gutted the bathroom this morning, prepped the walls, etc. Then my old chap came round and started plastering, but as he's just doing a wall a day after work it won't be done til saturday, then I can start putting bits back in, tiling, etc!
Still, should have some time free tomorrow morning, most bits are ready for paint now, although I need some panel wipe.
Using thinners leaves residue, and none of my local factors have any panelwipe. I can go out of my way to get some but not sure if I have time with everything else on :(
Nothing to see here really, been far too busy at the mo.
Although some of you may have seen my other thread where I decided on some wider wheels for her, and picked these up:
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/8271/revival096nf8.jpg
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/2271/107ahm1.jpg
But one had a centre cap missing, and I couldn't source one, so one of my workmates knocked one up for me :)
I think he's done a damn good job too:
http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/6133/revival139rh4.jpg
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/9018/revival140zq3.jpg
Unless I can get a sparco sticker made up I'll probably just black out the centre and do the same with another so I have a pair with logo's and a pair without.
Need to decide on what colour to do them now, as the pink/red anodise is not a good look!! Thought about white but not sure if it needs something to break the white wheel up, maybe black or grey?
Can't go wrong with black and white mate!
Guess not :)
Bathroom is finally nearly finsihed so I can put some love back into my S13 :)
Started prepping the wheels the other day for paint, and had a few other goodies turn up :D
As I've pretty much finished the bathroom now (just got to grout the walls :D ) I managed to find some time between the rain to get my new Apex coilovers on :)
I liked the KYB AGX's & H&R's I had on there, but my new wheels with low offset made the car look too high, so it had to be some coilovers. Plus I've always fancied them.
So, out with the old...
http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/6755/revival141pa9.jpg
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/2125/revival150eg3.jpg
Comparison shot, the Apex coilovers are so much lighter :eek:
http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/106/revival142pc9.jpg
http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/9706/revival149pb0.jpg
First of all I removed the hub mount and slackened off the locking nuts so that I could apply some anti-seize...
http://img371.imageshack.us/img371/2806/revival143yx1.jpg
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/8830/revival144tn2.jpg
Then as a starting point I wound on 5mm of preload. Measured against two nuts locked together.
http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/8316/revival145qp3.jpg
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/5100/revival146zz1.jpg
I have since read that some people say the preload measurement should be very accurate. If this is the case I will re-do it but use a vernier to measure it. Either way, once I have all of the alignment arms on I'll be getting it setup by an expert so I'm sure they have proper ways of adjusting preload rather than just measuring the amount the spring seat is moved.
I had no idea where the ride height would be so for the fronts I set them in the middle (measured down hub body to get both sides the same) and the rears I wound them in until the thread just started to go past the hole, then added a bit more.
Everything was locked up, then fitted :D Don't they look sexy ;)
http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/5176/revival147mu3.jpg
http://img371.imageshack.us/img371/2343/revival151mq9.jpg
The rears are probably close to being right height, but the fronts are too high, leaving around 3 fingers gap on 17" 225/45 tyre.
While I was there I fitted an Apex rear brace that I've had for a while, as you can see the boot is in a bit of a mess :wack: Pictures shite as it was raining at the time :(
http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/1827/revival152kt9.jpg
Will be interesting to see how they ride once I've sorted a few other bits out :nod:
Don't they look sexy ;)
:nod: :thumbs:
Is that Never Seez good stuff? I am looking for something to coat all the nuts and bolts when I reassemble the S14 suspension :)
I haven't used it extensively on the S13, but it's what we use at work. I normally use standard copper slip, but this like copper slip with added stuff so possibly better. Judging by the colour I reckon it has some graphite in it as well.
Parts that I've used copper slip on have always came apart easilly so hopefully this stuff will be even better :)
Rudely awoken by the Postie at 6.59 this morning :eek:
But had to let him off as he had these for me :D
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/7462/revival161ds6.jpg
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/9307/revival162ji4.jpg
This made me laugh!!
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/3051/revival163tx1.jpg
They look awesome quality, just need to get some rear traction arms and I'll get them all on.
Bought some G-Force rear toe arms from SRB a littlle while back, quality isn't up there with the Cusco stuff but for the money you can't complain too much, at least the colours nearly match ;)
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/3535/revival164li8.jpg
Bearing/rose joint looks to be same design on Cusco & G-Force, just that the Cusco's have a rubber shield around them to help keep the shite out.
Just need to get those Japanese manuals translated now!!
Been a bit quiet in here of late, but that's going to change over the next couple of weeks (weather permitting ;) ).
Archenemy is dropping by later this month to flare the rear arches so got to get my arse in gear!!
Had to do some cleaning of some wheels today, so while I was there I started prepping a pair of my Sparco's, just need a bit of filler round the rim then ready for paint. They're a bit fiddly compared to some wheels I've done before, and they had quite a lot of black stuff on them :(
http://img487.imageshack.us/img487/7628/revival171wf6.jpg
Trouble is, since seeing them like this I really like them in matt white and wonder whether I should go for this rather than the gloss white. Might just be because they actually look clean now though :wack:
the matt white certainly looks good:nod: that japanese warning quote is hilarious!:D
really look forward to seeing it finished:) ........with all this gear you have for it now it's gonna be awesome:thumbs:
is it staying red when the kit is fitted and sprayed?
Well, the trouble is, I'm not sure what to do about the colour.
Thing is, I'm going to end up spraying bumpers, tailgate, skirts, spoiler, doors. I've bought some red to do this, but realistically it doesn't leave much left to paint :wack:
But to do the whole car I'd rather do it in a workshop (haven't got enough space at mine), and it just so happens a mate of mine was building a spray booth - maybe I'll have a word. If it does get painted it will probably be Midnight Purple. Just not sure if I can be bothered with the hassle, it's been off the road a while now as it is.
do it! midnight purple would look great:thumbs: also your wheels would look good in bronze with the purple paintwork;)
We'll see ;)
you know it makes sense:thumbs:
I'd offered Joe on here my old tension rods when I changed them, so decided to do it today.
Old ones came off nice & easy :)
Stripped the Cusco ones down and applied Never-Seez to the threads, re-assembled then adjusted to roughly same length as originals:
http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/7272/revival172df1.jpg
Then re-fitted :)
http://img127.imageshack.us/img127/8985/revival173is5.jpg
Just got the rear arms to fit now :D
Carried on briefly with my sideline project 'Piki' but had to stop as the missus' Celica had a seized caliper SOS!!
Stripped the Cusco ones down and applied Never-Seez to the threads
Good idea that :) adjustable suspension parts soon seize up :(
Yeah, always best to apply anti-seize where you can :nod:
Well I decided to change the cambelt today.
The car has always had a CAS which was off centre and since I fitted a few extra bits I wanted to double check timing and can only get it to 15 BTDC with CAS almosy fully anti-clockwise. I put this down to cambelt being a tooth out so off came the cowling (plenty of room :) ) and covers:
http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/4396/revival175ou3.jpg
And.............erm............. it's OK, 48 teeth between marks from crank pulley to exhaust, and 39 between cam pulleys - bugger :(
Checked CAS splines and they look OK to me, checked cam but it was a little grubby and dark :wack: so not sure
anyone got an example of how much wear is a problem?
I took pics, but what looked OK on the camera looks shite once uploaded :(
http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/521/revival177lm0.jpg
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/4167/revival179ar4.jpg
I'll have to get better ones tomorrow unless anyone can advise from those? Is the exhuast cam worn enough to be a problem?
Cank pulley keyway and key look OK, slight wear on leading edge of key but edges were square:
http://img381.imageshack.us/img381/9584/revival176ox5.jpg
http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/9185/revival178oq9.jpg
No point fitting new belt back until I know my exhaust cam is OK :(
Also, another possible blow. The plugs that have been in for about 5 miles looked a little oily, no.4 quite oily. I really should do a comp test, could have some valve or ring problems maybe?
Fake Ben Taylor
11-07-2007, 23:49
if theyre oily id say hg or ring probs:(
CAS looks OK, exh. cam difficult to tell from that pic but I'd say OK too.
I had this problem and it was actually down to the CAS itself, swapped it for another and all was well. Have you tried another CAS? :)
Oh, and who painted your cam pulley bolts yellow (badly)? :wack:
Fake Ben Taylor
11-07-2007, 23:54
i think that may be some sort of anti rust stuff.....not sure though:)
Sideways Danny
12-07-2007, 00:04
cam and CAS look fine, probably worth fitting a different pair of pulleys on the cams, it caused me loads of grief. I have spares, I'll sort you some out
Lets hope the oily plugs is HG then :rolleyes: I'll have to sort out a comp tester to work out what's up.
Funnily enough when searching it was Pete & Danny that stood out as possible problems that I hadn't checked!! While I'm at this stage I may as well change the cam pulleys, if you've got a set Danny that would be great, let me know what I owe you for them :)
If that doesn't solve it then guess I'd have to try the CAS.
Dan, what was it about your old pulleys that gave the problem?
God knows about the yellow paint :wack:
I was half hoping my cam splines were worn so that I'd then have a good excuse to run a dual exhaust cam setup ;)
Fake Ben Taylor
12-07-2007, 17:11
I was half hoping my cam splines were worn so that I'd then have a good excuse to run a dual exhaust cam setup ;)
pmsl
Got a few problems at the mo :(
Still need to sort my timing issues out, hoping Danny will sort me out with the cam pulleys to try soon.
Got archenemy coming saturday to do my rear arches so need to fit rear alignment arms and get camber/ride height roughly right.
To do this I need to move my car.............can't find my keys :(
Can only guess that they are in the boot. I have a spare keyfob but batter is dead.
Luckilly bonnet was still popped so I removed battery and put it on charge last night, this morning the charger says 75% but the battery still has a red circle (which means dead). Don't know what to do here, may have to take it back as I've only had the battery a few months :(
Anyway, in the meantime I thought I'd do some priming.
Forgot to bring some sturdy rods home yesterday to hang the spoiler so it's just the uprights and bumper today (skirts still need a bit more prep).
Now in the past I have used my mates equipment in his workshop and today was the first time I'd used my 'primer' gun.
Not having much fun really :( It seems to be going through paint like no tomorrow but not actually putting much on, and what it is does is pretty dry :(
Pressure issues? I was running at 45psi, 50psi seemed better but still not great. It's took me a lot of coats with a filler primer to cover, normally it would be two, and maybe one for luck :( Doesn't make sense though as using a lot of paint but not a lot on panel says overspray to me which lowering the pressure should solve, but much below 45psi and it won't atomise surely?
Spoke to my mate who's a paint sprayer and he said it could be a factor of two things, primer being a bit old (I think it's around a year (maybe more) old) and a hot day, and so probably drying before it hits the panel. The finish he described is what I had in places.
He suggested trying new primer or maybe just getting a bit closer to the panel.
After reading around on the net most 1k/celly primers, unless RTS, seem to recommend 1:1 thinning so maybe the 20% I had been advised was still a little thick and not allowing it to flow out very well, and also adding to the drying out problem.
Shame I couldn't get a data sheet :(
Either way it has covered OK so will just need a good flatting before top coat, hopefully that will go on better for me :)
I always struggle to get a decent finish with celly primer unless it’s thinned a lot. The matt finish makes it dry faster than gloss and it doesn’t flow out. Celly shrinks when it dries and excessive use of thinner can react with filler underneath causing mapping. Best bet is to not over thin it and just flat it back.
With regards to 2K primer in your other thread, yes 2K primer has better adhesion properties but it’s not really a problem on well prepared panels. 2K over celly is absolutely fine as long as the celly has fully dried.
Hope this helps and keep up the good work :thumbs:
Cheers Pete, I do think it may have been a little thick in hindsight. I'll try some more tomorrow on the spoiler to see how I get on, luckilly neither panels have had a great deal of filler so shouldn't map too much.
Then I'll get some 2K primer in stock for other bits :)
Not one to be beaten I popped out again this morning to prime the spoiler.
This time I thinned the primer a lot more, just did it by feel really. Anyway, it sprayed a lot better this time, I had full coverage in two coats.
Still not blown away by the finish, although better than the bumper by far it is still not as good as I have had before, even when using aerosol primers. I asked my dad how old it was and he said about 2 years, so maybe it's past it's best. I've got some 2K primer on order now so once that's in I'll hopefully see some better results. Could also be that the gun I'm using isn't all that, but then I only bought it for primer duties as it was reasonably cheap.
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/1659/revival185qt6.jpg
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/4518/revival183yt3.jpg
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/2343/revival184uy2.jpg
Just need to put a little bit of stopper on the spoiler (missed the odd tiny chip :rolleyes: ), then flat them both off and get some topcoat on :D
Stripped down my remaining alignment arms and 'Never-Seez'ed the threads, but didn't have time to fit them before getting ready for work.
I've found my keys, and the battery (after 2 days of trickle charging) has finally come back to life, so tomorrow I'll fit the rear arms then get it out on the flat and set ride height and get the camber roughly right.
Still got to finish prepping the skirts, they had some hairline cracks in that just crack the filler so I'm going to plastic weld them :nod:
Also got a spare tailgate in good nick that just needs the spoiler holes filling so will get done this week.
Fake Ben Taylor
18-07-2007, 16:45
r32gtr spoiler ftw! :nod: very nice
Yep, funnily enough I've had it for years but never got around to sorting out a tailgate worthy of it :rolleyes:
In fact here's a pic from when I first fitted it two years ago!!!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v675/Hallsy/r322.jpg
Had a list of things to do today, got halfway through it and now it's pissing it down :(
I hate this bloody weather!
Big thanks to Phil (Archenemy) who came over yesterday after doing two other cars before mine and gave me some extra room for my rear wheels :thumbs:
I think he's done a top job, nothing too crazy just a subtle flare but there is now plenty of room for me to go a little lower and not have a worry:
http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/2028/revival186se0.jpg
http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/5323/revival187yn7.jpg
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/9272/revival188kc9.jpg
Think I need to get the front painted (rears will be done as well) and get some tyre son so I can see how much room I need, but I think a pair of +20mm front wings will be on the way :)
Might have a bash at sorting out my spare tailgate today if the weather stays nice :)
Been a long time :wave:
this week I'll be having some updates, haven't had much time today for any pics but I got a couple of things ticked off today.
Rear lights sorted, just need to top coat centre panel tomorrow.
Front & rear bumper, and front wings removed ready for new panels to go on.
Trial fitted Chragespeed front wings, passenger one absolute shite, panel gaps a mile out. I have some pics but not uploaded yet :( Hopefully Dan will be able to sort me out with a new wing.
Cam pulleys & cambelt fitted, although haven't had chance to check timing again to see if the pulleys have solved my timing woes.
Also generally checked a few things to make sure I hadn't forgot to do something up tight along the way!!
Tomorrow I'll hopefully check ignition timing, and debate whether I need to try a new CAS or not. Trial fit front bumper, and repair & prep spare tailgate.
If I still have time I'll finish prepping all my other bits ready for primer or top coat.
Hoping I can get the bulk of it all done this week so that I can have the damn thing back on the road!!
Well, progress hasn't been quite as good as I'd hoped after the first day, tuesday absolutely pissed it down all day here, and I also had a bike to build for a mate by wednesday so was a bit pre-ocupied (sp?).
If anyone's into bikes here's what I've spent some of my time on the last couple of days:
http://i4.pinkbike.com/photo/1531/pbpic1531737.jpg
Anyway, back to the S13, yesterday I fitted another set of cam pulleys and new cambelt, no problems here. Haven't tried it yet though so not sure if the pulleys have solved my timing issues, even if they haven't it only leaves the CAS so I'll try that.
Bought some Kouki lights a while back, just the lenses, decided I'd just modify & space the UKDM panels to suit, which I have, but in fairness I just got them done and though they look 'OK', in the long run I'll get some proper JDM panels.
Space was tight so this was the best pic I could get:
http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/2865/revival199pf7.jpg
Trial fitted my wings and bumper today. Initially the passenger wing was a mile out, but after some fettling it is now a good fit with even panel gaps. Drivers side fell on, and only really needed some slight adjustment to get the panel gap even towards front.
The bumper went on nicely as well, only needed very minor trimming where it tucks in behind the wings:
http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/4594/revival190ek4.jpg
http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/8181/revival191qo3.jpg
Only problem was the lack of fixings along the top:
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/5051/revival189zt8.jpg
So I removed the bracket from original bumper, and fitted it to the new one. Was spot on, perfect alignment along the bonnet line :)
Only slight issue is that it sags a touch just under the outer corners of the lights as there is nothing to hold it up here. Original bumper would be held where it bolts to wing, but this bumper wraps around the wing so has less support there. Going to have to get my thinking cap on for that:
http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/2285/revival193zi8.jpg
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/7913/revival194sv5.jpg
While I was slapping bits on I thought I'd see how my skirts fitted with the new wings/bumper:
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/151/revival195sa8.jpg
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/4585/revival197gz2.jpg
All looking pretty good I reckon, so tomorrow I'll be prepping these bits, as well as repairing the spare tailgate, and maybe get some primer on :D
Oh and I officially hate this camera!! I've said it many times before but unless the lighting is spot on it really is shite, I must buy a new P&S :nod:
looking good :thumbs:
what front wings are those and where can i get them from?
keep up the good work ;)
They are Chargespeed ones, and I got them from SRB :)
Oh dear, I'm having the dilemma of the 'do I' or 'don't I' respray the whole car.
The panel count of those that need paint is getting higher, and only leaves bonnet, roof, quarters and doors that don't need paint.
When you add to that that one of the doors needs rust repair and so would need painting and one of the quarters possibly needs painting, I'm looking at nearly the whole car anyway.
But then if I do go another colour, it's that much more work and my S13 will still be off the road.
I don't now!
nitrodave
12-10-2007, 09:48
if you can get a good colour match then polish up the panels you want to keep and see how it goes. you can always paint them after with leftover paint if you're not happy, just mek sure you over order
might be worth doing the whole thing if you can though
Yeah, well I already plan to cut back the remaining panels, although as it's had some paint in it's life it possibly won't match very well.
If I went for a full repsray then I'd probably go a different colour, that's the dilemma.
I agree if I painted everything I needed to red, then couldn't get remaining bits to match, then I'd paint those.
I'm thinking that it will look nice once all red, but could something like Midnight Purple look better!!
Good job :thumbs: I would paint the whole car red :) Colour change is a right pain :D
Yeah, I know, I've been there with my last car and it means so much more work in the long run.
Now I'm back from footy and the sun is shining I'm about to get some primer on the front end :)
Well, the wings & bumper are primed :)
The new 2K primer sprayed a lot better than the old celly stuff I had but I still can't get it quite spot on.
I used 4:1 High Build, so if used as a heavy filler primer you can spray it 4:1 un-thinned, or as a conventional filler primer add up to 30% thinners.
I went 4:1 with 20% thinners and it was reasonably thin, yet when spraying a test pattern it seemed dry, adjusting the fluid knob made do difference either.
It was covering fine, but seemed a little dry.
Weird thing is once I got going it suddenly got a lot better without making any adjustments :confused:
It covered really well but on the bumper it's a bit peely in places, not a worry for primer I know, but I'm trying to get to the bottom of it.
Whether it's setup or the gun itself, it's only a cheap Kestrel but I have a nicer gun for topcoat. Maybe I should've tried more air pressure, I was at 50psi, data sheet said 50-60psi.
Getting in all the light holes and openings was difficult as well, going to have to play with the fan setting a bit when I topcoat :nod:
Anyway, here's a couple of pics:
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/4281/revival203pf0.jpg
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/4889/revival204gd0.jpg
Also, on friday I started the repair job on my spare tailgate. I already repaired my original tailgate a while back, but due to huge patches it needed welding in, the fact that I was in a rush and using a crappy welder, meant that I warped it like a bitch!! SO I could never get straight and just gave up.
The one I bought to repair was in good nick, it had had a patch welded in before but all looked OK:
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/5274/revival200hf6.jpg
There was some surafce rust on the inside so I got the grinder out to see how far it had penetrated, and to my surprise it hadn't :)
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/9916/revival201bh7.jpg
So leaving me with only small holes to bridge, and the fact that I haven't got a bottle for my new welder :( meant I would just use some matting to bridge the holes on the inside.
Before doing so I wire brushed any surface rust on inside and treated all bare patches with Kurust.
Left that over night and next day skimmed with filler and flatted back:
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/463/revival202qr6.jpg
Then gave it a guide coat and blocked down. This left the odd low patch so I gave a light skim of stopper and will hopefully tomorrow give it a final flat, then paint :)
Damn, I am soooooo lazy, I haven't updated this thread (or the car) in ages!!
Anyway, full repsray is happening. Hopefully very soon, just waiting for my mate to fit me in.
In the mean time I've started prepping the rest of the car, today I need to sort out the odd rust scab and any small dents/chips, then flat the rest of the car down.
I'm hoping to have it all done and ready by the end of this weekend :)
I'm hoping to have it all done and ready by the end of this weekend :)
Take plenty of pictures. :thumbs: Should look great once it's done.
Are you going for a colour change, or sticking with the red?
Will do - although I didn't take any today as my battery was flat :(
Didn't get as much done as I wanted today really, but got some done.
Removed anything that needed removing, including wressling with the aerial!! All surface rust areas ground back and treated. Stone chips & minor marks filled with stopper, swage line tape removed.
All that needs doing tomorrow is the odd bit of spot priming, filling one dent, and deciding what to do with my aerial hole (got bent by some kids, might just weld it up and skim over). Then rest of the car needs wet flatting.
Only slight problem I have is that I discovered some rust on driver sill today, around the joint between front & rear sill. Hopefully not too bad but might need a patch, which is a shame as I have no gas for my MIG at the mo :rolleyes:
Hopefully get a full day on it tomorrow.
As for colour, it's going red again.
Only really decided to paint it as I had so many panels that needed doing we thought it may as well have the whole lot blown over.
I get soooo bored of sanding filler :(
I get soooo bored of sanding filler :(
Right pain in the arse ain't it :D Keep at it though, think of the end result :thumbs:
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