View Full Version : My S14a Rebuild Project
Well, I thought I would put a “running post” up of my rebuild.
Basically I brought a non-running S14a, it has had a great deal of money spent on it and has a great spec, but the engine was giving problems, in the form of a loud knocking and low compression, never a good sign!
So I got it home and it looked something like this:
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/8655/221zn1.th.jpg (http://img511.imageshack.us/my.php?image=221zn1.jpg)
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/656/791pz7.th.jpg (http://img511.imageshack.us/my.php?image=791pz7.jpg)
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/2679/341fv0.th.jpg (http://img268.imageshack.us/my.php?image=341fv0.jpg)
http://img369.imageshack.us/img369/7283/801mb3.th.jpg (http://img369.imageshack.us/my.php?image=801mb3.jpg)
Did a bit of diagnosis stuff, and it was defo terminal so the following weekend, out she came:
http://img458.imageshack.us/img458/7951/dscf0747ti3.th.jpg (http://img458.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0747ti3.jpg)
http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/2349/dscf0753jt4.th.jpg (http://img115.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0753jt4.jpg)
http://img506.imageshack.us/img506/5365/dscf0771ij4.th.jpg (http://img506.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0771ij4.jpg)
After some hard graft, it was out and stripped.
Piston No1 has clearly seen better days. Half was stuck to the bore and half stuck to the head, as you can sort of see in the poor pic:
http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/629/dscf0785fq6.th.jpg (http://img70.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0785fq6.jpg)
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/6146/dscf0789lc8.th.jpg (http://img242.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0789lc8.jpg)
http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/7269/dscf0791nh7.th.jpg (http://img170.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0791nh7.jpg)
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/8404/dscf0793vc1.th.jpg (http://img171.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0793vc1.jpg)
http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/9244/dscf0797kc7.th.jpg (http://img136.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0797kc7.jpg)
Anyway, at that point I made a big shopping list and ordered a fair load of stuff through a mate from the USA.:thumbs:
Whist I was waiting for the parts, I tried to do some other jobs. I removed all the ICE from the car, that had mainly been installed by Stevie Wonder I think, it was a mess. Fortunatly nothing perminant.:no:
Anyway, thought I would give the rocker cover a coat of paint, as it was a mess, so after many hours rubbing down a quick once over with a spray can it looked like this:
http://img445.imageshack.us/img445/1508/dscf0841bm4.th.jpg (http://img445.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0841bm4.jpg)
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/4098/dscf0843mg8.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0843mg8.jpg)
I then turned my attention to the interior. As I mentioned, I removed all the DVD player etc. It already had an AVC-R but it was mounted on a bit of wood :ghey: so wanted to do something better than that and mount my S-AFC that had turned up from the USA too. After lots of work I adapted a dash plate I got off here to accept both my S-AFC II and the AVC-R:) I am pretty happy with the result.
http://img417.imageshack.us/img417/7008/dscf0847vs6.th.jpg (http://img417.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0847vs6.jpg)
http://img423.imageshack.us/img423/9061/dscf0848ls5.th.jpg (http://img423.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0848ls5.jpg)
In the space below I am going to make up a plate from alloy and fit my two oil gauges and a CD player.
Back to the engine, few more pics of the damage and strip down:
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/2923/dscf0799sg8.th.jpg (http://img403.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0799sg8.jpg)
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/7273/dscf0801uh3.th.jpg (http://img403.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0801uh3.jpg)
Finally down to a bare block:
http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/7213/dscf0812xr2.th.jpg (http://img529.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0812xr2.jpg)
Whilst I was still waiting for engine bits, I took the head to my fav machine shop to see if it was fixable.
He seemed to think it was fine, so I have left it there to be skimmed, pressure tested and have 3 angle seats. He also checked the guides and confirmed that they are fine, not bad for 100k.
We also discussed cam options, as well as head flow. He has put these heads on his flow bench before and said that they flow well as stock so is going to do nothing more than clean up the casting marks and makes sure it will be clean and flush from the valve seat after they are cut, we still havent decided what to do with the cams yet.:)
great project mate :nod: cant wait to see the updtes :thumbs:
nice car,nice work:nod: good luck with the project:thumbs:
Finally my stuff arrived from the USA!:thumbs: Was so nice opening up boxes of lovely stuff!
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/7985/dscf0814mq2.th.jpg (http://img524.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0814mq2.jpg)
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/3167/dscf0815fo1.th.jpg (http://img524.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0815fo1.jpg)
http://img318.imageshack.us/img318/9075/dscf0821st6.th.jpg (http://img318.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0821st6.jpg)
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/2388/dscf0817ic3.th.jpg (http://img524.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0817ic3.jpg)
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/2299/dscf0830ck3.th.jpg (http://img524.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0830ck3.jpg)
http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/2926/dscf0833ib7.th.jpg (http://img380.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0833ib7.jpg)
http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/5369/dscf0825dk7.th.jpg (http://img260.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0825dk7.jpg)
Only problem is that I ordered the wrong pistons:annoyed: :ghey: So I will have to send these back, or find out with Sr20DE engine needs flatop pistons and flog them over here. I have already ordered the correct ones (I hope) and these should be here in a few weeks.:wack:
gonzomagic
01-10-2006, 16:33
Looks forward to watching this thread.
Great stuff.:thumbs:
Paul200sx
01-10-2006, 16:46
nice work!
cool stuff, cant wait to see the finished result. keep the pics coming!
Looks like youv taken an already sorted car and sorted it some more:thumbs:
well done and good luck,
Iv got the same to do over xmas.
Cheers, hope my engine work is better than my spelling!:wack:
Im sure it is mate, dont worry i cant spell for s**t but i can build a 450hp N/A engine in my sleep:D
Lol, cheers.
Well the Crank is going to my local machine shop tomorrow to be ground and balanced. The flywheel is going too to check the balance with the clutch assembly attached.
Spoke to the guy machining my head too, one exhaust valve needs replacing, I have also sent him some pics of my cam blanks, so should find out tomorrow what the options are there, possibly looking at just upgrading the Inlet cam as he was saying that a standard exhaust cam can tend to work quite well due to short duration not letting the hot exhaust gasses back into the chamber once they have left and hit the turbo.....we shall see.:)
ferretca18
02-10-2006, 21:42
sweet looks good mate, how do you get about with the tax issue shipping it over? ive got a few mates in the us and go over regularly. do you get them marked as gifts or lower prices/ both?:thumbs:
I have a mate in the US airforce based over here.......:nod: :thumbs:
Not sure the best way for you to do it, sorry.:no:
Another great re-build thread for us to follow :sxoc:
Keep up the good work :thumbs:
Well, a bit of an update, to confrim that not much is going on, lol.
The head is done and ready for collection, new valve fitted etc and the seats ground.
Still waiting for my pistons which is the main hold up at the moment, till I have them the block cannot be bored and they cannot be pressed on the rods etc.:annoyed: The crank should be done this week after I finally got the bolt and spacer over that was needed to help be balanced, they are also supplying some high quality bearings for both the big ends and mains.:)
I have placed an order for the rest of the parts with Bren, and I hope to god thats all of it, as my budget is running out fast:cry: I ordered a Greddy oil pan, greddy rocker arm stoppers, 1.2mm metal head gasket so I can run a high-ish compression ratio at just a nats under 9:1, and oil cooler kit with remote filter jobbie and a few other bits a bobs, doesnt sound like £600's worth though does it:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
Fingers crossed I should have some pics and a engine build to report about in the next few weeks, I am getting itchy feet!:smash: :smash:
The_BULK
19-10-2006, 12:38
great stuff squares, interesting read :nod: , hope your not waiting forever to get your pistons:wack:
I really like that dash mod. Gets rid of the central air vents which I normally have closed anyway. Was it easy to do?
Thanks, hope the pistons should arrive this week, that would be nice cos I could get it to the machine shop sat morning then pick it up the following week and start the assembly, we will see though.......:indiff:
Thanks for the comments on the dash, I cheated a bit a picked up the modified panel off here 2nd hand. I then had to adapt it again though to use the Apexi mount so I could keep the two computers together and so I have room down below for the gauges without it getting to crowded.:nod: Dont think it would be hard to do though, but its stuff like that, that is surprisingly time consuming, probably took me best part of the day and I had the panel!
Oh and whilst I remember, if anyone has a consult lead and software and is localish that would be great, I will need to time the engine when I re-build it.
Many thanks,
Rich.:D
Well I am still here.:rolleyes: There has been cockup after cockup with the pistons, so I still dont have them:annoyed: But they are in the country now and I should get them in my hands next week, it will then be down to the machine shop quick-smart, then I might, finally be able to get the block bored, washed and start putting the engine back together.:clap:
The crank is done, re-ground and polished mains/big ends, and supplied with new high quality bearing shells, and thrust bearing. It was also balanced with the flywheel, pulley and clutch backplate on, so the engine should be ultra smooth.:nod: :D
In the mean time, good old Apex have filled in the gaps, parts wise. Its all high quality stuff too, genuine Greddy etc, no cheap copies here!:D
So, seeing as I am bored and cant go out cos I have spent all my money on stuff the girlfriend would never understand, here are some pics!:smash:
http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/4507/dscf0928rf7.th.jpg (http://img383.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0928rf7.jpg)
http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/3702/dscf0932sf7.th.jpg (http://img118.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0932sf7.jpg)
http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/6195/dscf0933td4.th.jpg (http://img118.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0933td4.jpg)
http://img124.imageshack.us/img124/1042/dscf0934wh5.th.jpg (http://img124.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0934wh5.jpg)
http://img124.imageshack.us/img124/1858/dscf0936ki6.th.jpg (http://img124.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0936ki6.jpg)
http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/1875/dscf0938hy9.th.jpg (http://img102.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0938hy9.jpg)
:
http://img124.imageshack.us/img124/47/dscf0942bs8.th.jpg (http://img124.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0942bs8.jpg)
http://img124.imageshack.us/img124/694/dscf0945if0.th.jpg (http://img124.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0945if0.jpg)
http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/7845/dscf0948yt9.th.jpg (http://img118.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0948yt9.jpg)
http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/6978/dscf0953ku0.th.jpg (http://img118.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0953ku0.jpg)
Thats it, I am flat broke, pmsl.:ghey: Budget gone.
Hopefully there wont be much more to spend, there cant be, can there?!?:rant: :down:
Will post up again when it gets interesting and this lots starts going together, thanks for reading.:D :sxoc
Looking good so far, keep up the good work :thumbs: Lots more pics needed :nod:
What's your plans for the car?
How much have you spent then?
Cheers mate, car will be general weekend/trackday warrior.:nod: :wack:
How much have you spent then?
£5k, inc the car.;) God bless america.....:D
PM me some links please ;)
I have a freind in the US too ;)
Not till you clear your inbox out:smash: :p
Excellent work Squares,love the dash :notworthy
p.s please can you do us a photo guide of fitting the oil cooler ;) :thumbs:
S14a_200sx
25-11-2006, 04:13
Excellent mate. I did look at this car on ebay and was if'ing and but'ing whether or not to buy it myself. Glad I didnt, looks like its gone to a much better home! I bought my Gold thing instead. Hows much did it go for in the end if you dont mind me asking?
I paid £3.5k for everything, but have/will make money back by selling bits I dont need like DVD player etc.
Cheers.:)
bloody hell mate, that is going to be some car, i want to do an engine rebuild like that next year hopefully. big thumbs up to you :)
looks like someone got happy with their AVCR and started melting things :whip:
Best of luck with the build :)
just read all of this very interesing, cant wait to see it all back together
i want to see lots and lots of big progress pics when it starts to go together.
very intrested in any links you might have as im picking up an engine today to rebuild:)
if your feeling extra genourous, fancy pm'ing me a few links
great project why do u want higher compression:( :thumbs:
to increase off boost driveability, and will also require less boost to make higher power.
Thats an awesome rebuild! Whereabouts in Bucks are you located mate?
Hi guys, thanks for the kind comments, I will try and keep the thread going with pics and stuff, as and when.:D
Most of the stuff was ordered from the places in this thread:
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=227854
PLEASE NOTE!!!!: THAT THE WISECO'S IN THAT THREAD ARE WRONG, STANDARD ONES ARE NOT:
1 K557M87 Set of Pistons Wiseco
THEY ARE THE K556M87 PART NUMBER, THESE HAVE THE STANDARD 12CC DISH IN.:annoyed: :annoyed: :whip:
I got the hardware from Importperformance and the genuine nissan stuff from Coutsey, can reccomend both places.:)
I am in south bucks mate, amersham\chesham\chalfont way.:wave:
Well, look what finally arrived yesterday!!!
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/1927/dsc00890bi6.th.jpg (http://img150.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00890bi6.jpg)
Thats right kids, the correct pistons.:sxoc: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:
They were in my hands for 20mins, then straight to the machine shop with the block to have it bored.:nod: Although, annoyingly, the sheet of paper in the box with the specs on, had a blank space next to the reccomended bore clearance.:cry: Does anyone know what this is for the K556M87 piston set?
Cheers.:wave:
Quick update:
Block has been bored, with a 35thou clearance, as recomended by Wiseco for a 20+PSI applicaiton. It also needed decking, as it had some marks on the top, only very lightly though and I have been told has now come up a treat, I collect it Monday and have 4 days off next week so I hope to start putting it back together after I have cleaned it! Hoped to have it built by now, not just about to start, lol, never mind, its the way with these things go I guess.:rolleyes: :)
Should be able to pick the head up from Machine shop No2 on Sat I hope.
Cheers for the help so far SXOC, and thanks to Mark who not only sent me a woodruff key for the crank for no charge, but also helped me with a couple of questions this week, small details like this make juggling something like this and long days at work possible.:nod: :nod: :thumbs: :sxoc:
glad to see good progress, would love to see some more piccies :)
glad to see good progress, would love to see some more piccies
What of, my empty wallet:wack: :D
Will take some when there is something to show.:nod: :thumbs:
nooo. of the block with wiseco's in etc. :)
35 thou clearance!! lol!
i really do hope you mean 3.5 thou clearance, :p
Boss
Lol yeah, I suppose they wouldnt seize!
I did of course mean 3.5 thou, or .0035" :nod:
lol, at least the piston slap would over come the VVT rattle noise!! :D
Right, I will be brief as I am utterly shattard.
Picked up the head sat and the block mon, from the two machine shops I used. Been working for 4 days straight now as I have some time off, mainly cleaning, checking, painting etc. Trying to make sure I do everthing right and make no mistakes. Pretty much took a day to clean/strip/pressure wash the block, but its come up ok, least I will be able to spot any oil leaks!:wack:
Anyway, took a few pics, just got the crank in tonight and torqued up, oil pump has been stripped and inspected and thankfully that is also fine.:nod: :D
Was too tired tonight to put the rings on pistons, and the pistons on rods, that will be done tomorrow hopefully and slotted in.
Thanks for reading,
Rich.:)
http://img376.imageshack.us/img376/2883/dscf0955xx0.th.jpg (http://img376.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0955xx0.jpg)
http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/5239/dscf0956nf0.th.jpg (http://img294.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0956nf0.jpg)
http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/6079/dscf0958ek1.th.jpg (http://img294.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0958ek1.jpg)
http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/4134/dscf0959mr4.th.jpg (http://img241.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0959mr4.jpg)
http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/1368/dscf0962id1.th.jpg (http://img241.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0962id1.jpg)
http://img353.imageshack.us/img353/9692/dscf0963md5.th.jpg (http://img353.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0963md5.jpg)
http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/7070/dscf0965ih1.th.jpg (http://img294.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0965ih1.jpg)
http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/6097/dscf0966im3.th.jpg (http://img294.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0966im3.jpg)
http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/5629/dscf0970io1.th.jpg (http://img131.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0970io1.jpg)
http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/6540/dscf0971mm3.th.jpg (http://img294.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0971mm3.jpg)
Getting there then:D looking good:nod: bit more than iv got done with mine:cry:
big_dude
12-12-2006, 19:26
nice thread...... :thumbs:
VeilSide200sx
13-12-2006, 08:52
What paint have you used to do the block? It looks :cool:
Thanks alot.
The paint is just normal silver paint mate over an acid etch primer.:)
mike_s14
13-12-2006, 10:56
great thread, am putting my shopping list together myself, need everything for a rebuild except poncams which I've got, think 1500 would cover the whole lot? machining, importing parts etc
Have completely missed this till now - must have been browsing with my eyes closed.
Looks like you had a good find with the car. Hope the new engine lasts longer than it did for the last guy. Any ideas why it got fubared in the first place?
looking good mate. glad to see your progressing well :) :thumbs:
great thread, am putting my shopping list together myself, need everything for a rebuild except poncams which I've got, think 1500 would cover the whole lot? machining, importing parts etc
heres my part order, still need oil pump, water pump, timming chain and guides and gaskets
BC Cam SR20 S14 BC0205 $285.75
I&E S2
SR20DET Valve Guides Intake & Exhaust $80.00
SR20DET Valve $120.00
Stem Seals
BC S Spring & Ti Retainer $228.2 SR20DET Rockers $234.16
ARP Head Studs 102-4701 $162.16
SR20DET RWD ARP Main Studs 202-5402 $116.67
SR20DET
CP Pistons SC7328 $499.00
87.0mm SR20DET 8.5:1
Shipping USPS Express $145.20
Morning morning,
Well, the pistons and rods are finally in! The Wiseco's were a bitch to get on the rods due to the use of snap rings, but after a struggle, lots of swearing and a fair bit of my blood they were on. Checked the clearance for the rings in the bores etc and that was all fine, so they are in! Will get some pics later.
Due to the large clearance I am running on the bore, the whole bottom end is so so smooth, so shouldn't take too much running in hopefully.:D
The garage at home is now going to be thrown into chaos, as now there is a Chaterham 7 coming in, lol, needs the engine out to replace a rear seal that has gone hard during a car re-build so it is leaking, so I dont expect much progress until this is done.:annoyed: Shouldnt be too long though as they are so simple. Although I better keep an eye on it all, as a 400bhp Caterham Turbo would be leathel and a 240bhp N/A 200sx on 48's would be a laugh!
Hope to do more and get the engine done over xmas as I have a couple of days off.
Cheers.:)
PS Polo, I have ordered two o-rings by mistake, the one that goes behind the front cover for the oil pump/timing chain, they are FOOOKIN £4.19 each! Lol, so let me know if you want it.
Master Chief
17-12-2006, 01:05
Greate work, looks good.
I am allso in the proccess of a rebuild, but iam ao much slower....
Tell me, after you installed the crak and trqued down the ARP main studs....did the crank turn smoothly by hand ?
Did you use the OEM main bearing clearnces or what ?
I used the OEM bearings according to the manual, and when i torqued down the ARP studs, to the ARP specs, the crank siezed, and wouldnt move by hand - no way !
I ended up, going back to the OEM main bolts, torqued to OEM specs - and only then the crank moved smoothly by hand, as its supoosed to.
To what torque did you torque the ARP Main studs ?
Allso, i was wonderng about the ring gaps. Did you go by the WISECO's recomanded gaps ? What gaps did you set for the top, second and oil rings ?
The OEM recomanded gaps are way smaller then what i imagine you got from wiseco.
I hav CP's on mine, so i just whant to see the difrence.
I allso see you've painted the block.... did you do this after the boring ? What did you use to protec the DECK and bores, not to get paint all over them ?
What did you use to wash the block , and how did you protect the bores from getting rust marks from the water ?
Last thing.... I see you havent modified the ARP main studs to clear the Oil Pan.... You should check if you need to do that, and if soo, do it before you final troque them down.
Thanks, and good luck !
Tell me, after you installed the crak and trqued down the ARP main studs....did the crank turn smoothly by hand ?
Did you use the OEM main bearing clearnces or what ?
Hi mate. Yes, it turns REALLY smoothly, very nice indeed. I had the crank ground and polised, so am using oversized bearings, "Uprated" ACL bearings from Aus, my local machine shop that did the crank supplied them for mains, big ends and thrust.:nod: :cool:
To what torque did you torque the ARP Main studs ?
They give two settings, 85 ft/lbs if you lube them with 40wt oil and 70 ft/lbs if you use the moly lube stuff they supply, I did the later. (although I am not 100% that the figures are right, I am tired and havent checked!).
Allso, i was wonderng about the ring gaps. Did you go by the WISECO's recomanded gaps ? What gaps did you set for the top, second and oil rings ?
The OEM recomanded gaps are way smaller then what i imagine you got from wiseco.
I hav CP's on mine, so i just whant to see the difrence.
Hi mate, i cannot really remember now. Basically we checked them and they were within the tollerance. Thing is, they suppled me with 4 different bore clearences. One for 5-10psi, 10-15psi, 15-20psi and 20+psi. Of coures I had it bored for over 20psi which was 3.5 thou. They even mention this in the ring instructions. Basically, I think the main concern was that they were not too small so they cannot expand and sieze. It was something like 15-26thou, mine were in this range, of course they are all a bit different, as piston/bore/ring sizes are never going to be 100% exact.:) What did CP say? Also, do they use those gay arse snap rings to keep the gudeon pins in place? If so :ghey: :ghey: :censored: :censored: :ghey: :ghey: :annoyed: :rant: :rant:
I allso see you've painted the block.... did you do this after the boring ? What did you use to protec the DECK and bores, not to get paint all over them ?
What did you use to wash the block , and how did you protect the bores from getting rust marks from the water ?
Yes mate, when I got it back from the machine shop, I degreased the outside, banged out the core plugs and pressure washed the entire block. Too my time with this and it basically took a day. But I know it was about as clean inside as is possible. Then I blew it all out with the air line with it sitting in front of the space heater, masked it up and painted it, you have to clean all the gasket faces/bores with thinners anyway, so this removed any overspray.:thumbs: :D
Last thing.... I see you havent modified the ARP main studs to clear the Oil Pan.... You should check if you need to do that, and if soo, do it before you final troque them down.
Thanks, and good luck !
Right thanks, havent got that far yet, I will check, would probably rather remove metal from the pan than the bolts, if thats possible.:nod:
im loving this thread. i'll defd be using it for my rebuild. what turbo are going to use??
im loving this thread. i'll defd be using it for my rebuild. what turbo are going to use??
Hi, thanks very much. BUT please be warned, I am no expert, I am just an IT guy doing this in his spare time in a very old dusty garage, I may have made huge mistakes and the car never work, so please have this in mind if you are doing your own build. This was ment to be more of a thread to show what I was doing, rather than a guide for others to use.:nod:
The turbo that came with the car is a T34/T28 hybrid, it has twin seals and a 360 degree thrust bearing and the guy who built it said it would be happy to run 26psi and should flow enough for 400bhp. Time will tell if that is correct, but I have no budget to use anything else at the moment, perhaps in the future. Although it is like brand new with ZERO play and has a decent elbow on it and a tubular manifold, so hopefull should be good.:D :thumbs:
Master Chief
18-12-2006, 20:45
Thanks for the replay.
As for the CP's - the ring gaps recomanded for about 20+ PSI, was not less then : 0.024" for the top ring, 0.027" for the second, and 0.015 for the oil ring retainers.
The CP's come with some "C" shaped clips...not sure if they are what you mean.
Allso, the CP's clearance is supposed to be 0.0035".
About the ARP's , i gues all goes smooth, since you had the crank machined.... I have a new crank, so i didnt whant to tuch it, so i went by the BOOK' and used the OEM Bearings to get the right bearing clearnces....
Using the ARP's at the arp's torque, closed the bearing caps too tight, and the crank wouldnt move.....
I dont think i'll reach the main bearing bolts limits, so quick, anyway.
The ARP's main studs, are a bit of an overkill anyway.
As for the clearance issue of the oil pan, you wont be able to remove enough ,aterial to clear them, since there isnt much "meat" in that area to go with..... Look on te tech forum for my rebuild threads - there is there info about this.
About the "Degreesing", what exactly did you use and mean?
I used water and soap to wash an old block of mine, and in just a few seconds, before i got the air hose to dry it, it left rust marks on the cylinder wals.
Did you use plain water to wash the block, or what ?
I am not from England, and english is not my mother's landguage, so please eplain in plain words, what did u use.
Thanks, and good luck..... Iam sure u'll get it on the road before me......
Hi mate,
No probs, I will have to look at the ARP bolts again, shame I didnt realise before! :annoyed: Oh well I will learn as I go.
I just used a normal engine degreaser, then washed it with plain water in a pressure washer.
I used something like this:
http://www.diytools.co.uk/Product.aspx/!TB_SWAJIZ609
Hope you can find that in your country, your English is very good!:D :thumbs:
Master Chief
19-12-2006, 18:40
I just cant seem to find the exact meaning of the term "degreaser".
I'll try to find something....
Thanks anyway.
Master Chief
19-12-2006, 19:33
How about this ? Is this any good ?
http://www.hobbys.com/pedros/deg-g6.gif
yeah that should do.
:nod:
Master Chief
20-12-2006, 23:19
Greate, On it !
Good luck, and keep us posted.
Thanks.
Quick update - Sorry for delay, was ill over xmas then had to work at weekends etc, so been stupid busy -any way, on with the build:
Had to grind down the three rear arp mains as suggested, wasnt too much of an issue as we hadn't finished the bottom end anyway.
It was then all torqued up finally, and fitted front and back plates, with new seals etc. The oil pump was all stripped and checked and was fine so was re-assembled. Then we slapped on the tension plate, sump plate and the Greddy baffled sump super wingman jobbie thing.:wack:
Then spun her over on the stand and did the top end. Pics say it all really, its not done yet though. Head is just torqued down, I have to clean the valve gear then fit the Tomei cams etc, hope to do that this week.:)
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/3969/dscf09754rc.th.jpg (http://img407.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf09754rc.jpg)
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/2913/dscf09767ni.th.jpg (http://img207.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf09767ni.jpg)
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/8272/dscf09836vn.th.jpg (http://img181.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf09836vn.jpg)
http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/4192/dscf09854xr.th.jpg (http://img216.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf09854xr.jpg)
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/1562/dscf09876tb.th.jpg (http://img222.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf09876tb.jpg)
http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/3978/dscf09897ho.th.jpg (http://img209.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf09897ho.jpg)
TheNickos
22-01-2007, 11:36
it looks good dude, for a first timer it looks fcuking awesome!
Thing of beauty. Does anyone else thing looking at pistons on rods is very relaxing :wack:
Master Chief
24-01-2007, 21:23
Looking good, i envy you soo much for getting so far..... i have everything i need to close it all up, but dont have any more energy.....
BTW: What is the writing on the pistons ? Difrent sizes ?
And most importantly - can you tell me what RING GAPS have you used ?
Thanks .
:thumbs: Great job mate, keep it up:nod: looks lush. wish i had the money to get on with mine:annoyed:
EDIT: Looking back throgh the thread, how the heck did you get the block that clean inside?? must have taken ages!
Cheers,
Cannot remember what the ring gaps were, but they were within the Wiseco tollerance.:)
Polo, I was lucky mate, when I cracked the block open, the water ways were not at all rusty, was obviously kept well serviced..... whipped the core plugs out and gave it a pasting with the pressure washer though, for good measure.:wack: :smash:
Well, little update, doesn't look like much for many hours work, cleaning and checking etc.
All the top end parts washed, blown out with airline and checked, then offered up Tomei Cams and checked them.
Then assembled and timed it all, took much longer than I thought, but hey ho, as I say, just an IT playing engine builder, lol.:rolleyes: :p
Couple of pics:
http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/9228/dscf0988yt3.th.jpg (http://img249.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0988yt3.jpg)
http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/5951/dscf0998jh4.th.jpg (http://img300.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0998jh4.jpg)
http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/7605/dscf1000sr8.th.jpg (http://img300.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1000sr8.jpg)
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/526/dscf1001mz6.th.jpg (http://img405.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1001mz6.jpg)
Also the water pump is in, as is the brand new tensioner from Nissan USA! Wow wow! When the cams were all torqued up etc, I popped on the front cover. Now I just need to put on the top tensioner, new rocker cover gaskets etc, and get cracking slapping some big bits on.:D
Well, little update, doesn't look like much for many hours work, cleaning and checking etc.
All the top end parts washed, blown out with airline and checked, then offered up Tomei Cams and checked them.
Then assembled and timed it all, took much longer than I thought, but hey ho, as I say, just an IT playing engine builder, lol.:rolleyes: :p
Couple of pics:
http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/9228/dscf0988yt3.th.jpg (http://img249.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0988yt3.jpg)
http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/5951/dscf0998jh4.th.jpg (http://img300.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0998jh4.jpg)
http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/7605/dscf1000sr8.th.jpg (http://img300.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1000sr8.jpg)
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/526/dscf1001mz6.th.jpg (http://img405.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1001mz6.jpg)
Also the water pump is in, as is the brand new tensioner from Nissan USA! Wow wow! When the cams were all torqued up etc, I popped on the front cover. Now I just need to put on the top tensioner, new rocker cover gaskets etc, and get cracking slapping some big bits on.:D
how did you re-shim the valves/rockers:)
spin-king
01-02-2007, 00:04
Looking verygood you could eat your tea off that.
Have you got the part number for the core plugs:confused: stupid t***s at nissan say they dont know what im talking about:smash: also, do you know exactly how much you need to cut off of the two rear main studs to fit the sump? do the nuts need modding aswell?
This is stunning for your 1st engine build, top level work there mate:thumbs:
Just had the chance to read the whole thread, cant beilve you done all that for 5k! awesome!!! Suppose it helps when you can take the engine out and put it together yourself!
excellent project well done:thumbs:
Thanks for the kind words.:)
Polo, dunno about the core plugs, thrown the bag in the bin, I got them from High Wycombe Nissan and they knew what I was talking about over the phone.
As for the bolts, the nuts don't need modding no, basically I ground them down on the bench grinder, you can just see and use the allen key hex in the end if that helps. Its obvious when you are doing it and you have the pan to keep offering up.:nod: :smash:
Latest pics now the hard work is done:
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/3164/dscf1008vt4.th.jpg (http://img406.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1008vt4.jpg)
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/3553/dscf1013lo2.th.jpg (http://img406.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1013lo2.jpg)
http://img129.imageshack.us/img129/6244/dscf1014is1.th.jpg (http://img129.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1014is1.jpg)
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/4790/dscf1019gi2.th.jpg (http://img406.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1019gi2.jpg)
So its almost done now finally, also forgot to put the Greddy rocker arm stoppers in, so had to do the cam caps again and moddify the rocker cover.:ghey: :annoyed: Anyway, all sorted and finally sealed up!:notworthy :notworthy :D :D
As you can see, slapped the rest on, inc both manifolds. A couple of bits to finish up tomorrow. Hope to also drag the car in and start on that, nothing major to do, just clean up under the bonnet and fit oil cooler, gauges etc etc.:thumbs: :wack:
Just had the chance to read the whole thread, cant beilve you done all that for 5k!
I must admit its £6k now, with the cams and a few other bits that I hadnt really thought I was going to get.......:wack:
TheNickos
17-02-2007, 22:04
V nice job though dude overall!!
Polo, dunno about the core plugs, thrown the bag in the bin, I got them from High Wycombe Nissan and they knew what I was talking about over the phone.
Iv got them now:nod: from nissan in wycombe too:D yea they get there in the end down there, Paul's the helpfull one:nod:
Yeah think it was Paul I spoke to!:thumbs:
Got the car in today, after washing it off, now just got to sort that out and slap the engine in!?!?:wack:
Been out in the garage again today:smash:
Hard shitty day though, but it ended up ok:nod: Work has now started on the car, the front bumper is still off, but under the bonnet it was in a really depressing state.:hurl: :hurl: :rant: :rant: :down: :down: The Tazmainien Devil must have done the intercooler install, it was shockingly bad. It really annoys me, it was bodged in so badly, REALLY rought holes hacked, torn and mullered. If that wasnt bad enough, they hadnt then been repainted so were now rusty.:annoyed:
So out came the lamps and off with the intercooler etc and I spent a few hours with the wire wheel on the drill sorting it out as best I could. When the compressor is fixed (tomorrow hopefully) I will clean some of the metal up before painting and making up a plate or two to really tidy it up.
Will get some pics too.:thumbs:
As a side note, tried out a clay bar and some of my Poorboys stuff as per reccomended from OCD:notworthy Clay bar worked well, but the top coat is miles too scratched to even be touched by the SSR 2.5. My old man's work has a mop and a guy who is good with it, so I will prob run it up there when it is running.:nod:
Also got track time booked for Japfest, so need to get it sorted!
The Tazmainien Devil must have done the intercooler install, it was shockingly bad. It really annoys me, it was bodged in so badly, REALLY rought holes hacked, torn and mullered. If that wasnt bad enough, they hadnt then been repainted so were now rusty.:annoyed:
Sounds a bit like my intercooler install, but us S13 owners care more about form than function :D
Sounds like you've done some good work, can wait to see the finished result :thumbs:
Sounds a bit like my intercooler install, but us S13 owners care more about form than function :D
Sounds like you've done some good work, can wait to see the finished result :thumbs:
Yeah, plus you S13 boys are used to rust:wack:
Thanks for your kind words too, being serious the engine bay is almost ready (its not mint but I would have to strip and rebuild the whole lot to achieve that). The dodgey hole was ground back and cleaned up, all rust gone and sprayed with primer- so now I just need to spray black over the top.
Fingers crossed I can get the engine in this weeked!:D :D :D
I need to:
fit oil cooler.
finish detail touches on engine with new nissan bits that arrived today
get the engine on the crane and bolt flywheel, clutch and gearbox to it.
fit oil gauges
slap it in the car!
There is other stuff I need to finish off too, but hopefully in the next couple of weeks I should at least have it started and almost done.:D :D :clap: :clap:
Please all cross your fingers!!!!!:wack:
Good luck - obviously a labour of love! Weirdo ;) lol
Outstanding job Squares, I've enjoyed reading through this whole thread, and look forward to seeing the final pictures of the car back together, also be nice to see what it dyno's at. Keep up the good work :thumbs:
Paul
Thanks guys.:nod: :wave:
Well, hard weekend and day off today, but SHE IS IN!:nod: :nod: :clap:
Rust sorted, ground and painted, butchered hole still there, but not for much longer.
http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/8314/dscf1022bj3.th.jpg (http://img164.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1022bj3.jpg)
Santa finally came with my GTR track wheels, thanks to Matt_J and Vez:thumbs:
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/8890/dscf1029kp4.th.jpg (http://img267.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1029kp4.jpg)
Gearbox in need of a clean up
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/1889/dscf1030jk2.th.jpg (http://img513.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1030jk2.jpg)
Engine finally done
http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/8577/dscf1041dc7.th.jpg (http://img339.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1041dc7.jpg)
http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/6411/dscf1042db4.th.jpg (http://img339.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1042db4.jpg)
Alloy flywheel and 4 puc paddle clutch installed.
http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/7343/dscf1046my1.th.jpg (http://img70.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1046my1.jpg)
Gearbox on
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/8408/dscf1050jy4.th.jpg (http://img513.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1050jy4.jpg)
Some sweating and swearing later, she is in:nod:
http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/2554/dscf1051vr5.th.jpg (http://img339.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1051vr5.jpg)
http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/9940/dscf1053ra8.th.jpg (http://img339.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1053ra8.jpg)
:D :D :D :D :D
Still LOADS to do, but broken the back of it now.:)
Whens the first turn over happening...
I am waiting on a oil return pipe from nissan which isnt in stock anywhere, so thats going to be about 2 weeks, so hopefully not long after that.
The standard connecting stuff in only takes a day, but I still have some customising to do, which takes most people ages, and takes me double ages.:ghey: :ghey:
I am waiting on a oil return pipe from nissan which isnt in stock anywhere, so thats going to be about 2 weeks, so hopefully not long after that.
2 weeks! You're a very patient man, if it was me I'd want it running, like, yesterday :smash:
2 weeks! You're a very patient man, if it was me I'd want it running, like, yesterday
Its going to take me that long to save up the silly amount of money that want for it!!!!:eek: :eek: :smash: :smash:
Hey mate nice build there...
Note on that oil cooler lines... It looks the exact same stuff I fitted to my motor... Had huge problems with leakage, I'd say just double check the sandwitch plate, maybe thread tape the crap out of it.
My lines also started leaking on the crimped fittings, eventually got fed up and threw them away now got some rubber truck lines in, with decently crimped fittings... does the job.
Hi Guys,
Still here! Been working all over so garage time has been limited to weekends. There was LOADS more to do than I thought, plus lots more un-bodging, some of the wiring has been so bad, I will never know how the car caught fire, I really won't.:no:
Good news is that lots of its now done, the wiring is sorted now, all done properly which took hours and hours.:annoyed:
Most of the little brackets and stuff are made up for bits and bobs etc, so we are getting there. The oil cooler pipes are 20000miles too long, I dont know what car they are desiged for but it isnt mine:no: :rant: :down: I have removed them for the time being, as I want to get it running at least. I am going to mount the cooler this weekend, then when its in measure and mark the pipes up and get the replaced or shortened. Once that is done I can put the rest of the rads in, fill the car up with fluids and hopefull start it:smash: :smash:
Fingers crossed!:eek: :smash:
Matty2Fatty
29-03-2007, 14:35
looks awesome :thumbs: hope you get it running again soon :D :notworthy
Looks like your more or less at the same stage as me. Been waitimg for about 3 weeks now just for the last few bits to get it started again.
Good luck with your first start. Hope it all goes well!:thumbs:
Master Chief
29-03-2007, 20:05
Squares - iam catching up to you ! (i wish) Finaly got the pistons in....
Update with some photos !!!
IT RUNS!
After a another long and annoying weekend, it runs and sounds awesome!!! Even at idle!!!:nod: :nod: :nod: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :sxoc: :sxoc: :sxoc: :D :D :D
SupraMan
01-04-2007, 18:50
Congratulations, great work!!!
http://img159.imageshack.us/img159/778/dscf1078az4.th.jpg (http://img159.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1078az4.jpg)
http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/1936/dscf1084gw8.th.jpg (http://img510.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1084gw8.jpg)
http://img159.imageshack.us/img159/5144/dscf1085ys9.th.jpg (http://img159.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1085ys9.jpg)
http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/3010/dscf1089ly9.th.jpg (http://img510.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1089ly9.jpg)
http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/7938/dscf1090gj9.th.jpg (http://img510.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1090gj9.jpg)
:D :wave: :wave:
disco-tom
01-04-2007, 19:18
Looking good, Squares. :)
Where did you get the Greddy intake manifold and throttle asembly from, if you don't mind me asking? Also, who did the madding to fit the throttle assembly to the intake manifold, or is that a Tomei adaptor?
Good work, well done:thumbs:
Where did you get the Greddy intake manifold and throttle asembly from, if you don't mind me asking? Also, who did the madding to fit the throttle assembly to the intake manifold, or is that a Tomei adaptor?
It came with the car mate, its a Freggy though (fake greddy lol) not the real deal. Has a 75mm throttle boddie though.:nod:
So pleased it started, no leaks too so far, and it all sounds sweet, so am over the moon!
LOTS more to do, loads of tidying up to do, plus another list of parts to buy.:annoyed:
I need a CONSULT though to time it properly, anyone local have one I could borrow?
Cheers:thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:
Master Chief
01-04-2007, 21:59
Thumbs up Sqaures !!! I am happy for you - must be a great feeling, the moment it starts (and there are no leaks... ;) )
How are you planing to run it in ?
Allso, did you do anything to prime the oild pump or the engine, before the initial start up ?
Thumbs up Sqaures !!! I am happy for you - must be a great feeling, the moment it starts (and there are no leaks... ;) )
How are you planing to run it in ?
Allso, did you do anything to prime the oild pump or the engine, before the initial start up ?
Cheers! No leaks, rattles, knocks etc so far.........:D :wave:
Not sure how I am going to run it in, will keep the revs below 4k for a few hundred miles I think, then getting it mapped and on the Rolling road early May, already booked.:nod:
Before I started it, I just unplugged the coil packs, and cranked it over a fair few times, the oil light went out so the pressure was up, and you could hear that it had "compression." Then I plugged it back in and it fired straight away.:D
Still have air trapped in the water system at the moment, so cannot run it for long, will sort that out though.
Wow... very nice work :)
Matthew
Wow.. having a boring day at work.. glad i found this thread! Just read it from the start and :notworthy to Squares for all his hard work and a VERY good write up with pics!
Just a few questions for ya mate...
1. Do you have a pic of where the NVCS (VVT Sprocket) goes in the engine? Always been interested to know, as i may get round to changing mine if its not too much work.
2. I saw a pic of your bottom end and it looked like you had oil on the faces of your pistons???!!! is this ok? or did u clean it off before the head went on? Surely it would cause smoke etc???
and finally... is it poss u can video the engine running and host it just so all of us can hear the purr of how our engines should sound :wack:
again :notworthy to ya mate!
Thanks for the kind comments, I am really chuffed that it started! I thought it never would lol, or a piston would come out or something.........:wack:
CrazySx:
1)
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/526/dscf1001mz6.jpg
You can see it there on the left hand (inlet) cam, the large sproket. Basically there is a electrical solonoid that opens at a certain point (above 1500rpm I think) in the side of the head (not shown) this lets oil into it and the pressure moves the sprocket a small amount inside to adjust the cam timing.
Not sure if that makes sence, do a search, there is more detailed info, but you can see it there anyway.
2) That is oil on the pistons mate, you assemble the whole engine with oil, so when you are cranking it before oil pressure is up, there is no damage. Its such a small amount that it just burns straight away.:nod:
Cheers.:)
Thanks for the kind comments, I am really chuffed that it started! I thought it never would lol, or a piston would come out or something.........:wack:
CrazySx:
1)
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/526/dscf1001mz6.jpg
You can see it there on the left hand (inlet) cam, the large sproket. Basically there is a electrical solonoid that opens at a certain point (above 1500rpm I think) in the side of the head (not shown) this lets oil into it and the pressure moves the sprocket a small amount inside to adjust the cam timing.
Not sure if that makes sence, do a search, there is more detailed info, but you can see it there anyway.
2) That is oil on the pistons mate, you assemble the whole engine with oil, so when you are cranking it before oil pressure is up, there is no damage. Its such a small amount that it just burns straight away.:nod:
Cheers.:)
Cheers for the pic mate.. will do some more searches!
I do realise that u need oil on the pistons.. but not usually that much on the faces.. no worries.. it works :thumbs:
Master Chief
03-04-2007, 19:06
What do you mean by - """and you could hear that it had "compression." """
Allso, i was wondering.
I just assembled the bottom end yesterday - Main shells + Crank + Rods + Pistons ......
Now, with the pistons and rods connectet and torqued into place to the crank - and the crank not torqued down - I could spin the whole assembly, using a rubber glove (not to sleep) - from the crank front axle. (Where the sproket sits).
Now, after i torqued the crank as well - with the main ladder one etc.... I hardly can spin the whole thing by hand - exept on TDC.
If i use a finger to push on the crank weights, to help me spin it - i can do it, but stil - not easy.
On the other hand, if i usec a ratchet on the front of the crank - I can spin it pretty easy, even if i hold the racher close to the crank (i.e not using the racher lenght momentum).
Does this sound ok ? Could you spin the whole thing by hand ?
Thanks.
You can "hear" compression, as in when the engine is cranking over it is fast at first, and then goes slower, like a flat battery, but its just that the starter is coming up against resistance of the engine.:nod:
I think your crank is bent and that you need a new one:cry: :cry: :cry:
NOT REALLY! HA HA, sounds perfect mate, you should be able to turn it just how you describe.:thumbs: :D :D :D :D :wave: :wave: :wave:
No get the rest back together.:nod:
Master Chief
03-04-2007, 23:03
Damn you got me ! It must be that 1st of april thingy, ah ?
My heart droped in my pents for a second - As i remembered mentioning that the crank was brand new somwhere.....
:):):)
Sorry guys, been a while since an update. I have managed to be ill for the 2nd time time in quick sucession so no work on the car for a couple of weeks:ghey: :ghey: :down:
Back on it now. My mate made me up a couple of alloy blocks to mount the oil cooler just in front of the a/c rad, we drilled into the rail and put in some rivnuts using my new gun! Was pretty cool and a neat way of doing it, even if it did take ages lol, so about 2 hours of work and it was mounted.:rolleyes:
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/5230/dscf1096xa1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Still need to take the hoses to get them shortened, as I mentioned before, they are about 4 feet to long which is pathetic.:rolleyes:
Other annoying little hold ups too, like nobody having mikola hose clamps in stock, seem to be some sort of shortage, hopefully I have now sorted this. Also, I orderd what I hoped would be the last of the wiring stuff, to properly mount the battery in the boot, not like the bodge effort that was on the car. It all arrived, but alas, half of it was wrong, even after talking it though with the guy on the phone.:annoyed::furious: :furious:
Anyway, to make some progress I thought it was time to rebuild the brakes, rears first and what a state they were in! Had to give the old discs a pasting with a big hammer to remove them, even with bolts screwed in the holes to help remove them. They are in now, new plain brembo discs and yellow stuff pads, looking at the size of the brakes I am unsure if they will be upto the job, but they get me up and running and I can look into bigger ones in the future.
The fronts are much better, with 300ZX calipers and 315mm discs with nearly new mintex pads (unsure which compound) but will give them a try.
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/848/dscf1092wc4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Dont have much time left now, but am getting there at last. I will run the car in while the cooler pipes are being shortened, hope to finish it this week/weekend for the MOT, then get a ticket next week. Insurance is sorted today too, so its coming together......there will still be lots to do even when its running, but hey, I guess thats how it goes.
Hopefully my next update will be with an MOT ticket and a few pics of it out in the light.:nod:......my god, thats just reminded me what a state the body work is in, oh arse lol.
DETERMINED to get it Mot'd and Mapped/rolling roaded in time for japfest.:nod: Even though it will not be "finished" it will at least be running, I hope!:clap: :clap:
The cat is on, front brakes are done........just need the correct electrical parts to wire up the battery finally, then I think its drive it up the road time........:wack:
I think you are about 6 weeks ahead of me in terms of getting everything ready but Im getting excited and its still a long way off!
Hope everything works out, it looks like a great deal of work has gone into this project- good luck with the mot!
Thanks mate, good luck with yours too.
I am allowing myself to get a bit excited now I must admit.......passing an MOT will be a challenge I am sure!:wack:
Master Chief
24-04-2007, 23:31
As usual, great job !
What brand Oil cooler is that ?
Dunno mate, just a cheap one from Apex.:nod:
MOT tomorrow, all please cross your fingers!
Battery is now properly located in the boot in a nice box, with proper wiring.:nod: Been doing loads of boring detail stuff, and removing 1000000 miles of bodge wiring that was jammed in the fuse box and threaded everywhere in the interior. Had to remove seats and carpet etc to do it properly, but it looks good now.:D
Still have loads to do as usual, need to raise the car, fit bonnet and bumper, fit and mod new primera washer bottle (that hopefully arrives today) - old one doesnt fit due to big intercooler and pipework.
Then its dashboard, wiring in oil gauages, SAFC-2 and other stuff.
So I need all that and an MOT before this weekend, then its run it in, get it mapped, rolling roaded, insured and taxed before track outing at Japfest next week.........:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
Lol, I may have to go home early from work........
Sorry guys, been a while since an update. I have managed to be ill for the 2nd time time in quick sucession so no work on the car for a couple of weeks:ghey: :ghey: :down:
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/848/dscf1092wc4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Dont have much time left now, but am getting there at last. I will run the car in while the cooler pipes are being shortened, hope to finish it this week/weekend for the MOT, then get a ticket next week. Insurance is sorted today too, so its coming together......there will still be lots to do even when its running, but hey, I guess thats how it goes.
Hopefully my next update will be with an MOT ticket and a few pics of it out in the light.:nod:......my god, thats just reminded me what a state the body work is in, oh arse lol.
DETERMINED to get it Mot'd and Mapped/rolling roaded in time for japfest.:nod: Even though it will not be "finished" it will at least be running, I hope!:clap: :clap:
Have i done wrong:confused: I thought that the 2 red collars on the coilovers were meant to go on the spring side,not the base as to "lock the spring" :confused:
Good work so far Squares :notworthy :thumbs:
Dunno mate, thats how they were fitted to mine, may not be correct.:rolleyes:
Would be nice to know before I higher the car........:nod:
BlackBetty
02-05-2007, 10:56
normally they red collars have to lock the spring, not the base. the base is locked by the collar under the base and the one over the base. the spring is locked by 2 collars.
your rear brakes looking great... do they have the same size like oem, but produced by brembo? (i need new rear discs , too :) )
normally they red collars have to lock the spring, not the base. the base is locked by the collar under the base and the one over the base. the spring is locked by 2 collars.
your rear brakes looking great... do they have the same size like oem, but produced by brembo? (i need new rear discs , too :) )
Hi,
Yes thats what I would expect too, thanks I will have a look, as I said, I didnt fit them, and I would expect them to be wrong, as everything else on the car was lol.
Yeah discs are just plain brembos in standard size. Cheers
Paul_S13
03-05-2007, 18:44
Yey! :D
Ouch, my head hurts.
Too many celebratory beers.:hurl:
Had to type up a spec for the insurance, so thought I would post it up. All insured now too so I can get some miles on it over the weekend!
Engine
Wiseco Coated Forged Pistons
Eagle Forged Rods
ARP bolts – Rods\Mains\Head
ACL up-rated bearings
Rebuilt ported cylinder head with new valves and 3 angle seats.
Balanced crank with ground journals
Fidanza Alloy flywheel
Helix Paddle Clutch
Greddy baffled sump
Greddy rocker arm stoppers
Greddy style intake plenum with large throttle body.
Tomei 256 PonCams
Nismo 550 injectors
Z32 AFM
Cometic head gasket
T34/T28 hybrid turbo rated upto 400bhp.
Tubular manifold
Walbro fuel pump
Custom turbo elbow with exhaust system.
Front mounted intercooler with custom pipe work.
19 Row Oil cooler with braided lines
Sard R2D2 Bov
Cusco catch tank
Apexi induction filter
Apexi AVC-R
Apexi SAFC-2
Water Injection (Not currently in use/setup).
Battery relocated to the boot.
Suspension/Brakes
Apex Coilovers
Rear adjustable arms
Front and rear strut braces
Front 300zx callipers with 315mm plain discs
Rear new brakes rebuilt with Yellow stuff pads
Wheels
18inch Ultralite Twin alloys with Toyo –R tyres.
Interior
Standard apart from Guages for Oil pressure/temp, boost and air\fuel.
Exterior
Standard apart from after market R33 style front bumper.
WeirdNeville
06-05-2007, 14:56
I'm not a million miles from you (in fact less than a mile from high wycombe nissan!) and I'd love to lend a hand and have a look at this beast! PM me when you've got any big jobs to do! (no real skillz to speak of, but I've helped build a Dax and put engine/transmission into a sierra cosworth so I'm not completely useless!)
Thanks for the offer, but its almost done, lol!:nod:
Update:
Few picks of the last few bits of work:
http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/7875/dscf1110xd0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/7408/dscf1112te0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/1542/dscf1113qb3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
You can see the nightmare wiring that welcomed me when I opened the fusebox and trim. I was discusted and cannot believe someone could do this to a car.:rant: :no:
After a few hours it with all the seats out etc it was done properly.:nod: :nod:
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/5368/dscf1114za5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/9671/dscf1116sw0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/4282/dscf1117ju3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Just had some guys over to machine polish it too, as it was flat and scratched. It needs the bumper and bonnet painting, but apart from that, its not too bad! Really got the colour back into it now.
Please also excuse the unfinished dash and catch tank etc.:nod:
Makes the last 8 months seem worth it, mapping is on the 5th June.
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/7790/dscf1118cj2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/8350/dscf1127vu8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/2012/dscf1119dc4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/8097/dscf1122nw0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/7697/dscf1128ex8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/186/dscf1129xi3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/408/dscf1130zu5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/7095/dscf1131ar0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/4963/dscf1132kk4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
great stuff, I bet you cant wait till the engine is run in!!
disco-tom
08-05-2007, 18:58
Why the long old pipe run for the catch tank? If you went to the slam panel and along the radiator cowling, you wouldn't be going over the red hot exhaust manifold and most likely melting the pipe from the cam cover.
Kudos for your efforts, though. :thumbs:
Please also excuse the unfinished dash and catch tank etc.
:nod: :thumbs:
Had a good day today, swapped my bumper for a standard one, looks much better, more my style.:nod:
The wheels are for sale also, going to just run my R33 GTR rims I think, cheaper tyres and a bit more profile too, not to mention nice and light.:D
Need some standard plates and the de-chaving is complete! Also had oil pipes made to the right size etc, so in a couple of hundred miles I can rig all that up, mapping June 5th!:wave:
Also got a standard gear knob and boot carpet coming and also trying to get an adjustable fuel pressure reg so I can up that to 4bar (3bar is standard). This helps fuel atomization (and so det) and will raise them to 641cc so I might be able to get best part of 400bhp if all else is well.:)
yeah, the bumper just didnt suit the rest of the cars stylings
good call
Bahnstormer
13-05-2007, 19:37
looking great :thumbs: very nice indeed.
Good to see a (mildly) chavved up car being returned to OEM parts, it's normally the other way round :D
Would like to see some pics with the proper front bumper and R33 rims on, should make a world of difference :nod:
Its definitely not a chavy front bumper but it certainly looks out of scale to the rest of the car. I can comment on it now you have decided to get rid :D
Earlier I was saying to myself it was the perfect s14a if it wasn’t for the front bumper lol
yeah, the bumper just didnt suit the rest of the cars stylings
good call
Yeah that sums it up really, it will really suite billies car as he has big ass wheels and cage etc.:nod:
Also, we pealed off the number plate, and it looked loads better without that stuck on.
looking great :thumbs: very nice indeed.
Thanks mate, found that remote too, my good lady took it to the post office this morning and sent it special delivery!:nod:
Pete, I will get some pics when its all done mate, need to sort out number plate and indicators, and perhaps a couple of extra holes for cooling the top of the intercooler.
All being well should be at japfest if any of you lot are going.:)
Still going well.
Turned the boost down as the actuator was too much, now boosting to around 0.5 BAR, so just nice. Rev'd it a bit more too, all ok, no more than 5k though.:nod:
I have also fitted a standard front bumper now, with a small Jap Style no plate and brand new standard white indicators.:D Looks so much better! Only just finished though, and its now raining so no pics yet. Also fitted a new rear no plate that is just plain, no chavvy england flag.:ghey: :ghey: :ghey:
So its getting there, want to get some miles on it now, need to get a better catch tank, as the one I have is not a good size for any available holes left in the bay! lol.
Oh, and the new fuel pressure reg kit with guage turned up too, looks nice, will let me turn the fuel pressure from 3BAR to 4BAR, which should take my Nismo 550's to around 640cc.:clap: ...which should be enough for the best part of 500bhp, so more than enough for me.........for now at least.:thumbs:
I got it from http://www.fuelsystem.co.uk/ who were really helpfull, and did a kit for the SR, including adapter, FPR, hose, clips, bracket, gauge, etc basically everything for £108 delivered, which I thought was pretty good. Turned up next day too....guy was really helpfull and said they supply driftworks too so knew exactly what I was talking about. I will take some pics when I fit it, and let you know how it goes on etc.
Cheers.:)
sweet!! how much did the clear indicators set you back geez?
Well its all gone wrong. I got a tool made up so that I could measure the valve shim clearance, so I whipped off the rocker cover and got the cams out as one of the lifters was rattling.
Its all fu$ked, inlet has been bound tight, checked the valve tops and they are all over the place after having the 3 angle seats done, so they have ruined the rocker arms and possibly the (Tomei) inlet cam.
I am so gutted I feel sick. The head has to come off and basically the top end needs starting again, I don't really have any cash left and I have just setup insurance and tax for a car I am not going to be able to use for ages.:annoyed: :cry: :cry: :cry:
so the valves don’t sit correctly in their seats after the head was worked on?
surely that’s not your fault. sorry not 100% sure what has happened
so the valves don’t sit correctly in their seats after the head was worked on?
surely that’s not your fault. sorry not 100% sure what has happened
It looks that way. Basically you have to measure the valve clearance to the rockers, which I had no way of doing, so I had a special tool made up as one was ticking (which I thought would be the worst case without thrashing the engine - I have only done 300 running in miles) looks like I may have been hugely mistaken. I am not sure whats happened yet but 2 of the (previously unmarked) rockers are now mulled and have damaged 2 lobes on the brand new inlet cam. The exhaust cam and all the other lobes/rocker arms are fine.:rolleyes:
Still not really sure whats happend. I spoke to the guy who did my head (wasnt looking for blame) and he said that there valve seat cutting machine is very accurate, and would usually only remove 1-2 thou from a valve seat when its cutting, if it was any more he would know. I also spoke to Apex about the tomei cam(s), and they said that they have only heard of one or two failures like this.
Need to gain more info before I can more forward, the guy who did the head said that if it did need to be removed (which he understands what a pain that is) he will happily look at it with me to try and figure out if there is anything wrong with it.
In the mean time.:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:
Yeah definitely seems worth checking out the head itself before putting a new inlet cam and 2 new rockers in, head seems suspect.
I'd enquire to see if you can get a single replacement cam, I know people like Kent cams and Newman cams will happily replace individual cams.
Good luck mate
Really sorry to hear about the problems :( Hope you get it sorted with the minimum of hassle :nod:
Master Chief
01-06-2007, 23:27
Naaaaa.... Thats a bummer Squares.... Sorry to hear about that.
Tell me, why do you think you need to remove the head ?
Isnt the Valve sealing properly or what ? How do you know its not sitting right in its seat ? Bad sealing would be the only way to confirm this.
From what you say, i get that 2 rocker arms are gone, and the lobe on the cams, but whats that have to do with the valves ?
Any damage on the valve tip ???
The shimming is to make sure that the Rocker arms, sit square to the valve's tips, on each cylinder. This way they would be pressed equaly by the cams lobes, even if the rocker arms are not square to the cam lobes. Thats where the wearing of the rocker arms is forming to the cpecific lobe.
If the rocker arms were not square to the valves tips, then the problems would start happening, and you should have defently check this after tuching the valve SEATS .
The manual speaks of a maximum difference between two valves on the same rocker of 0.001" - You can see that if you removed 1/2 thou's from the valve seats, how crutial properly shimming would be.
On a diffrent not, i am suprised of the damage that this caused.
How much were the valves shims off by ???
Good luck my friend, and please update on whats up.
Thanks for the words of encouragement and thoughts.:)
I am still not 100% whats happend, it is looking more and more likely that the Tomei inlet cam could have been a "soft" cam, eg something in the hardening process has gone wrong.:rolleyes:
I was mistaken, and much of the information above was wrong, as all 4 lobes are destroyed, really badly worn, as are the rocker arms. I need to double check the clearances on this side (getting the tool moddified so its higher) but it seems that they were in tollerance.
For example, the exhaust side cam had 2 rockers that were very slightly out of tollerance, only one had a slight ticking (bearing in mind this engine has done only 300 miles) and the cam and rockers are still perfect.:nod:
The pair of cams I removed with 101k on also looked perfect with no visual wear AT ALL! I will confirm and then look into it more, but at the moment its looking like I have been unluckly and got a cam that was faulty.:cry:
The rest of the top end seems faultless too, spray bars were clear, had been cleaned to make sure and are are still not blocked. Bearings are fine, oilways are clear, lifters are all ok etc etc....not sure what else could have caused it. apart from a soft cam......:rolleyes:
tis real strange! you used the correct camshaft assembly lubricant right?
also some engine oil's can really screw things up during the break-in process causing the camshaft and lifters to fail in an unreasonably short period of time. Ive known certain camshaft companies to supply additives to put in your oil during the run in period.
This is not specific to the sr20dett motor though
The strangest thing for me is the fact that both cams were installed etc in the same way with the correct lube etc and one is perfect and the other is scrap.:confused:
Master Chief
10-06-2007, 21:51
Squares.... Did you bleed the Lifters from air ?
Can you take some pictures of the damage ?
You got me worried too, since i just installed my cams yesterday.
dan mkii
10-06-2007, 22:04
which exhaust is on the car squares?
Squares.... Did you bleed the Lifters from air ?
Can you take some pictures of the damage ?
You got me worried too, since i just installed my cams yesterday.
Yes I did mate, you can check them too, as the manual says, you should not be able to compress them more than 1mm by hand by pushing the back of the rocker.:thumbs:
Dunno what exhaust it is?!? Its a full job though, BIG turbo elbow, custom down pipe the size of the channel tunnel and only a single rear box, so its pretty loud!:cool:
The replacement Cam and brand new rockers and shims etc should arrive tomorrow, £300 odd I didnt have, but I actually got given the cam for my B'day so that was nice.:D
Hopefully this time it will all be ok. Will update when its back together.:)
sweetness! so you managed to get just a new exhaust valve then, who was that through??
New front end I put on a couple of months ago, has a small square number plate now and new clear indicator, so looks nice and standard, plus is a much better fit. Ignore the wheels, they are going tomorrow.:wave:
http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/4365/dsc00954ip8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/7518/dsc00955fz8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
New cam, rockers and guides, nothing like spending money twice! Grrr. Going to get the cam inspected when I have the new one in, Bren said that I could of course have a refund but I am sure Tomei won't pay out for new rockers and guides etc.
Spoke to APT when I was trying to get shims, they said that they had never heard of anything like this.:rolleyes:
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/7467/dsc00970oe5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
As there has been a fair bit of talk about valve clearances recently, I thought I would show some pics of the one I had made. Simple when you see it, its just like the "Nissan" one; simply get a friendly engineering mate (who will take payment in a beer or two :)) to make a little foot for your dial guage stand in the same shape as a lifter.
http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/4550/dsc00971pi6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/7769/dsc00972or7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img76.imageshack.us/img76/5447/dsc00973yg8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img365.imageshack.us/img365/6246/dsc00974ac7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Then you can just put it in the head where the lifter should be and measure the difference as per the manual.
http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/3995/dsc00975eb2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/2306/dsc00976me5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
I am waiting for the shims now, after the usual bollox from Nissan. Should only take around an hour or two to get back together once I have the bits, story of my life! FIngers crossed it will last longer than 330miles!!!!!!
Best of luck with it, I have just done the shims recently. lots of measuring and re-measuring to get it right.......
Hope she works out ok
Sorry that Murphy got hold of you mate... It was looking so good!
Looks like you got the gadgets to make it work, keeping toes crossed ;)
Cheers Guys.:nod: :thumbs:
Master Chief
24-06-2007, 06:30
Suqares, how did you nake sore that the gauge is Paralele to the Valve stem ?
The only way i can think of making sure of this, is having the gauge connected at exactly 90 deg, from the gauge stands wich sits in the LHA hole.
Although you only measure diferences between valves, and the above would seem pointless, the location on the top of the valve stem, where you do the measure, could change to diferent values on the same valve shim - if the gauge is not exactly at 90 deg, above it.
Anyway, i wonder what TOMEI had to say about what happend ? Any chance you can find out ?
Good Luck.
Hi mate, yes you raise a good point. I did it by eye on the bench, to make sure its correct. I think this is good enough, as long as it is locked in place, so cannot move. Like you say, its just the difference in height you are checking, I made sure I measured each valve in the same place, eg the middle.:nod:
Well, the last of the parts arrived on Sat morning from Japan, so it was running again by Sunday night.:sxoc:
I havent actually driven it anywhere as there are other changes going on with the car, I sold the 18's, and I will be running R33 GTR wheels for now. I have got some new Falken FK452's on the way, 255/40 rear and 225/45 front.:wack: The rear is going to be spaced out 15mm, and when I have adjusted the camber properly I will be getting Phil over to roll the arches (archenemy) - quick plug, he has been really helpfull picking tyre sizes and spacers etc.:nod: :Plug:
I cranked the car over with the rocker cover off, and double checked the oil spray bars again, and they are working fine, so that defo wasnt the problem.:confused: I am fairly sure it was faulty, and not hardened correctly, but that is something I can never really prove, so I am unsure if I will ever get my cash back.
Anyway, good news is the car is running again, the idle and ign timing are sorted, and hopefully if the next week or so I can start putting some more gentle miles on it.:nod:
Glad things are back on track- good luck with the run in.
We are in the middle of our rebuild and its a nerve racking experience!
i will be praying hard when its fire up time!
Thanks mate,
Yeah, I had no idea that it would be so stressfull. It really is a case of one step forwards and 3 steps back some days.:rolleyes: Especially when your trying to fit it all in with a 50hour working week, and buy parts that are not available etc etc, it becomes a nightmare, wish I had the cash to been able to give it to APT or who ever, and tell them to call me when its done!!!! lol. Oh well, where would the fun in that be!:wack:
I get let down on parts at least once a week, sometimes more, and that is once a week for the last 8 months, paying for them is only half the battle. Finding out what you need, exactly what you need, where you might be able to get it from, at what price, in which country, and when will it actually arrive. You can go through all of that, and the wrong thing turns up, or nothing turns up, or the right thing turns up, and fails.:annoyed:
There is no doubt, I have a few grey hairs now (accourding to my GF anyway, I of course tell them they are her fault!?!) but I hope the day I get it mapped, get it rolling roaded, and start blowing away £60k 911's on track, it will be allllll worth while.:thumbs:
I hope.:wack: :wack: :smash:
TheNickos
04-07-2007, 17:22
thumbs up on perseverance dude! i'd have got pissed off and garaged it for years after it went tits...... :wack:
:annoyed: Well there we go, a case in point, talk about talk too fukcing soon.
Some H&R spacers I purchased last week of a forum member, went to fit them tonigth, and all the studs are rounded off, have been turning in the hub.:mad: :mad: :mad:
So the "perfect, only had them for 6 months" is more bullshit.:annoyed: :annoyed:
So a nice little job to do after a day at work turns into another conflict/headache.
It was buckled wheels last week, which I am £175 down from, that was another "respected" forum member too,
:sxoc: my arse.:rant: :rant: :rant: :rant:
My car is for sale, come take it away for £20.:cry:
TheNickos
04-07-2007, 19:17
take 15 for it :wack: ?
Lol, I suppose if you cant laugh you may aswell cry.
lol.:rolleyes: :annoyed: :wack:
Some H&R spacers I purchased last week of a forum member, went to fit them tonigth, and all the studs are rounded off, have been turning in the hub.:mad: :mad: :mad:
So the "perfect, only had them for 6 months" is more bullshit.:annoyed: :annoyed:
They all do that - the splined bit on the studs isn't long enough :(
Mine did it when they were nearly brand new :smash:
I just got a blob of weld put on the back of the studs so they could only turn so far :thumbs:
Thanks for the advice.
Do you mean kind of between the splines and the flat bit? To act as sort of a key once wacked into the hub?
Would have helped if the previous owner had even put half of them in straight.:rolleyes:
Thanks for the advice.
Do you mean kind of between the splines and the flat bit? To act as sort of a key once wacked into the hub?
Would have helped if the previous owner had even put half of them in straight.:rolleyes:
Nah, the original plan was to weld them to the hub in place, but they broke free. The blob of weld was on the edge of the head of each stud, so they could only spin until the blob hit the inside of the brake disc, then they stopped :wack:
Sounds bodgy, but I ran them like that for a good 18 months with no issues :)
Oh I get you, ta.
Think I will try and weld them in like you did, if it fails, they will prob do the same!?!:wack:
Right, feeling good about the whole project again now, after my tantrum lol:ghey:
My 4 round R33 wheels are ready to be collected from a refurb and are nice and shiney, the 4 new tyres have turned up and they are HUUUUUGE and round, aswell as black, hoping to get them all together and on the car along with the new H&R rear spacers (15mm) and exisiting front H&Rs too.
Also got some Evo8 track wheels in the pipeline, with some A048 cut slicks too.:nod:...but think I am going to be hungry next week as I will have no money for food etc lol.:smash:
Few other bits to sort out, but as I have next week off as I am changing jobs, I will try and get it all sorted and back together, wash the dust off and get some proper photo's up.:D:
PS: Got the rear spacers from SRB, were the best price by a fair way and really helpfull on the phone too, so thanks to Dan and the nice lady on the phone.:Plug:
what you say about the ballache getting parts supplied had me nodding in agreement for every line, and the blowing £60k+ porsches away on track is definitely going to make it worthwhile in the end when Tomo1 and I get his car fired again!
We're faster than poorly driven 911s in our current trackday car, but now I want to show the guys who are handy drivers what can be done with some hard graft and a 4 pot turbo engine... nurburgring towards the end of the year when both are run in and gremlins sorted??! :thumbs:
best of luck with getting it all 100% sorted!!
Thanks joney, only someone who has done/is doing what we our, ourselves, can truly understand how tiring it is and what a huge hassle it can be.:rolleyes: :nod:
Will defo be up for the ring, that is one of the places I have had in mind the whole time I have been building this car.:thumbs:
Couple of pics:
The Evo wheels I collect this afternoon.:D
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/824/hpim0153qx3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/503/hpim0156rr1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
And the most expensive R33 wheels ever, lol. complete with new Falken Fk452's.:thumbs:
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/8249/dsc00985lo4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
cool, Yokohama Advan A048's and Falken Fk452's,
If you go to a track day and its a little wet dont be tempted to pop the Falken's on, found the Advan's to be way better :nod:
glad things are running smoothly again bud!
cool, Yokohama Advan A048's and Falken Fk452's,
If you go to a track day and its a little wet dont be tempted to pop the Falken's on, found the Advan's to be way better :nod:
glad things are running smoothly again bud!
same here, I was really surprised to find how much better R888s were in the wet than a road tyre; it's only standing water that they are worse at, and even then they still did well... a mate of mine did his disertation on tyre performance and found that R888s provided more grip than a road tyre in up to 15mm of standing water! it's only the stiffness that makes them worse in that situation as they go from grip to nothing faster.
what size spacers are you looking at using with the evo 8 wheels Squares? I was looking at them, or the MR wheels as both are a good quality rim that's lighter than a lot of aftermarket alloys and you can pick them up dirt cheap :D
what size spacers are you looking at using with the evo 8 wheels Squares? I was looking at them, or the MR wheels as both are a good quality rim that's lighter than a lot of aftermarket alloys and you can pick them up dirt cheap :D
You dont need any, just a different wheel nut, thats with a 235 tyre at least. But I will retain my 15mm front and rears when I run them.:nod: :thumbs:
They are great value, in fact, I would have probably not bothered going the expensive skyline route for my road wheels......although the Evo wheels are only 8in wide, so a 245 tyres is the max really, as I read that the min a 255 could go on is a 8.5inch rim.:)
15mm standing water! fair play. May find out if thats true this Friday, weather looks crap at combe that day :(
yeah will be interesting to know what sort of spacing is needed for those evo rims
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=269124&highlight=Evo+wheels
Thats the thread I got the info from.:nod:
Had Archenemy roll the rear arches today, top job too I might say!:Plug:
So it was finally lowered over the new wheels (centre caps still drying on the bench).
Still some jobs to do, but getting less and less each time now!:D
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/5267/dscf1206yt7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img106.imageshack.us/img106/4277/dscf1207pi5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/7066/dscf1210xb2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img106.imageshack.us/img106/2483/dscf1211dr2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/5154/dscf1214ho6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/5696/dscf1219as2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/3007/dscf1221nx0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
I think it looks fan-fuking-tastic myself!!!!:smitten: So glad I went to all the extra effort to change the front back to a standard bumper and swap the wheels for the GTR items.
Yours chuffed.
I think it looks fan-fuking-tastic myself!!!!:smitten: So glad I went to all the extra effort to change the front back to a standard bumper and swap the wheels for the GTR items.
Yours chuffed.
Looks fantastic :thumbs: and those wheels are :smitten:
Any close up pics of the arches?
Edit: it NEEDS clear side repeaters :nod: ;)
Looks 1000x better than the first pics, really like it :)
Your exhaust sticks out too far though :p
Thanks guys.
Its function over form largely, so orange indicators will stay till the suspension is setup etc.
Plus, I would rather have another £30 of petrol to enjoy!:wack:
Pete - :ghey: :wack: :p
Pete - :ghey: :wack: :p
Well it does! :p
Sorry, something like that would really bug me, guess I'm just an odd one :o
Looks great overall though, best colour too :)
Thanks guys.
Its function over form largely, so orange indicators will stay till the suspension is setup etc.
Plus, I would rather have another £30 of petrol to enjoy!:wack:
Pete - :ghey: :wack: :p
well sell me your clear front indicators and you can have my orange ones to match :nod: yet more money towards fuel there buddy
I'd like to see those evo wheels fitted once you sort out the bolts if you havent already.
cheers
I can see what you mean about the exhaust in the pics, but I think its the angle, as its flush with the back of the car in real life. - maybe I will get some clear repeaters to keep the crowd happy!:D :wack:
Well, after wrestling with a CRAP apex oil cooler setup, I think i have finally got it to stop leaking. Wish I had got the greddy one now, but hey ho.:rolleyes:
Have spent something stupid like about 15hours trying to sort the dash out, by making up a plate for 3 guages that goes where the vents used to, then a more simple plate down over the ashtray etc to mount the avc-r and safc2.:nod: hopefully tomorrow these should be dry and I can get them fitted etc, will take a couple of pics.
Done a few more miles, and it feels good. currently got the boost turned down to 0.02bar lol, nice and gentle, and slow lol. its nice to just be driving it at all, the ride is loads better too, swapping to 17's from 18's, the VERY harsh coilovers, only seem hard now.:D
Once my engine is in and mot is done I will be after an oil cooler and a better rad.
Apex are oner of my options- what was bad about the oil cooler? Is it the connections or actually getting the thing in place thats the problem?
Also agree that the 17s look great- you can still fit 330 mm discs or perhaps 345mm behind them?
100% 343mm will fit under skyline rims, certain 17" will allow you to fit 355-356mm! I've seen a few Prodrive rims with 355mm AP racing setups, looks tight!
With regards to oil cooler kits you get what you pay for! you can’t really compare Apex's relocate kits with Greddy's. if you buy from this country your looking at a 200+ price difference!
Is the difference in terms of design/materials for the oil cooler or quality of fittings?
Yeah your right it is not really fair to compare them.:no:
The rad seems fine, but the filter head which has the gauge take offs etc on is poor IMO. Nothing seems to fit, the hoses are too close together so you cannot get a spanner in, plus they have leaked from the actual unions etc etc. I also had to pay a tenner to get 2ft taken from one of the hoses, I have no idea where it was supposed to go.:rolleyes: All that, and the fact its not thermostatic, I wouldn't choose it again. Oh, and the o-rings leak, so replace them with copper washers if you get one.
If I was going to do it again, I would have tried to purchase a greddy filter head (and this has better pipe design) and a greddy take off (the bit that screws to the block where the filter goes origianally), then just buy a rad and get the hoses made up. Its not hard, you just need to find a local hose place. A tip i got, is you can use garden hose pipe cut up to lenths to work out how much you need. Then you can get it all done properly, with 45deg unions etc, which you need to make a proper job of. I would fit them to the block take off for starters - I still might.:nod: If you buy wisely, I cant seem the three items costing much more than £100 or so, then the cost of the hoses on top, which are reasonably good value I think, unless you get the gay red and blue fittings.:ghey: :wack:
Plus if you fit it properly, you only need rubber hoses, not the awkward braided items.
Brakes, which 343mm items did you see under R33 wheels? I know Dan does a kit like that doesnt he, and he said someone was about to try them.:nod: I have them in mind, perhaps with skyline rears for the future, although the current setup seems ok so far, but when the boost is cranked and the track calls, it may overwhelm them.:wack:
Oh, and I have done 100miles since yesterday!:sxoc:
Brakes, which 343mm items did you see under R33 wheels? I know Dan does a kit like that doesnt he, and he said someone was about to try them.:nod: I have them in mind, perhaps with skyline rears for the future, although the current setup seems ok so far, but when the boost is cranked and the track calls, it may overwhelm them.:wack:
AP Racing put together a big brake kit with Ø343mm discs and 6 pot callipers which are intended to fit under the 8J x 17" Standard R33 Wheels. Pretty sure its as big as you can go when using these wheel, certain aftermarket Speedline 17" wheels will allow you to fit bigger discs.
heres some details
caliper installation profile to confirm wheel clearance (http://www.apracing.com/roadcar/brakekit/p16004.pdf)
exploded view (http://www.apracing.com/roadcar/brakekit/p12004.pdf)
Once my Brembo and Mintex setup bites the dust I plan to fit the above setup or the Ø356mm setup if I decide to run 18" on the track as well and pair it up with a set of DS3000s pads.
k-sports 8 pot Ø356mm kit looks good and allows you to run whatever brand of pads you what, which is cool.
really not sure which kit to choose
Quick bump for the latest. Sorry its been quite a while, but started a new job about 6 weeks ago, and havent had time to do much else since I am afraid.
Finished up a few jobs and small probs with the car, but its getting better and better and I have done a few hundred more miles in the car, pretty much without issue.:D
Spoke to Jez today, and getting it mapped and RR'd on Tuesday, so fingers crossed!:wack:
Finished up a few jobs and small probs with the car, but its getting better and better and I have done a few hundred more miles in the car, pretty much without issue.:D
Spoke to Jez today, and getting it mapped and RR'd on Tuesday, so fingers crossed!:wack:
Good news then :thumbs:
Master Chief
22-08-2007, 22:14
I'd trade you "small problems with the car" anyday !
Nice to hear things are comming along righ. Thumbs up !
Glad everything is ok with the car. I have the small problem of a fire through a wiring loom to contend with...... welding for the mot, then setting the car on fire.... I HOPE its worth it!
fixup1982
23-08-2007, 22:32
Hey ya fella re-build is looking good, mine is also being done at the moment although it is taking a little longer than i would have hoped. Any chance of let me have you contact for parts as i will proberly need most of what you have had,
thanks paul :sxoc:
Well good and bad news today really.
Went and saw Jez, he did the buisness as usual, helped me set the car up properly and get it mapped.:sxoc:
After a fair few hours it was mapped and running much better.
The turbo isnt really what I was hoping it was though, it cannot hold the boost, so it tails off and is suspected to be around 320bhp or so with good midrange. The rolling road was closed too as the guy was sick, not that it really mattered as the result would have been dissapointing.
Question is, what to do now, suddenly feels like the project has such a long way to go........:rolleyes:
Without being bothered to read the whole thread, which turbo are you using? :)
Without being bothered to read the whole thread, which turbo are you using? :)
Its a strange turbo, its a t34/t28 hybrid basically, its a good turbo, and in nearly brand new condition, but I think the guy who built it over estimated its ability, which I kinda thought might happen, but its still a bit of a shame.:ghey:
Gt3071 ;)
Yeah, any suggestions as to a USA supplier and spec? I'm wondering if that is going to be enough, given my, perhaps unrealastic, expectations......:smash:
It seems a bit silly to have an engine of this spec and not have the grunt to match.:wack:
If the GT3071 would get me high 300's/maybe 400, which is the next one up from that, which could deffo get me into mid 400's?
Any help would be great chaps, thanks.:)
Where is the useable power, is it from really low down?
Well a safe and reliable 320 bhp cant be too bad can it!
tomo your right.
Its all low down, and with the forged engine there isnt really any noticable lag, unless your fishing for it.:nod:
Just been out for a blast tonight, and it does go very well, frankly I think the money might be better spent on making the best of the brakes and suspension at the moment, perhaps with a 3071 on the to do list.
:)
Jez, would still like to know what spec 3071 would be best, so I can price one up.
cheers.
Been using the car a bit, but working loads and loads at a new job, so not much work has been done on the nissan.
I have sorted out a few things, but more importantly worked out the bits of the car that are not good enough, and how they can be changed.
*Didnt handle well enough, too hard and low.
*Brakes could be better, and are warped and blue already.
*Seat doesnt offer enough support.
*Suspension needs setting up properly.
*Once all of this is sorted, then more power, but I am not going to do this until the whole package is sorted, this is not just a straight line speed project.
How to fix these things?
1) See pics, bling bling - most expensive single part of the car, I have high expectations of these bad boys. EDFC on the way too.
2) 345mm kit should arrive next week from DB Brakes.
3) Fit one of my carbon fibre momo course bucket seats I have in the shed lol, so I have a frame on the way for this, and will fit the 6 point harness I have too, iniatialy just for the drives side, but will fit the second later if I strip and cage the car, which I probably will.:wack: Have a OMP WRC wheel on the way to delete airbag.
4) Will fit locking collars with coilovers and get the car properly aligned asap.
5) Do a load of track days.
6) get 3071R turbo later on.........:D
Tein Mono Flex:
BEHOLD!:sxoc:
TheNickos
27-09-2007, 19:22
Tein Mono Flex:
BEHOLD!:sxoc:
Kingdingaling! :notworthy:
Lol, you mean ker-ching-a-ling. lol.
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Master Chief
28-09-2007, 19:25
What is the difference between the Tein FLEX, to Tein MONO flex ?
I have the Flex on the car, and were the first, and defently the best thing i did to the car.
About te GT3071R, i have the Internal Westgate model, called - GT3071R-WG, with the bigger AR 82 (or was that 86).....
It has the T25 Flange, and its low mounted on a tubular manifold.
I already had the manifold, and downpipe etc... so didnt want to do to many changes, so i opted for a T25 Low mount turbo.
You can see its full specs on the Garette web site, or at the USA - ATP Turbo.
I got it from ATPturbo.com. Meaby you can get it a bit cheaper somwhere else, but ATP's costumer service, is second to none.
After many talks with there techical guys, they recomanded the GT3071 i have, over ANY OTHER OPTION for a T25 flange.
I originaly wanted a GT3076 with a 64AR, and they got me to change to the GT3071 with the 82(86) ar.
Its an amazing turbo, and flows enough air for at list 475HP. ATP say you can easely posh it to 500HP.
Its not a T28 Lag wise, but its not too bad. My car was not tuned, and full boost (15) was about 4000RPM.
Now i didnt have a chance to do more than 800KM, and tune the car (because of the sleeves fiasco), so during this time i only got it to 15PSI, a couple of times.
The moment the boost came in, the car was puling like a train !
At high speeds, it just keep accelerating. I just wanted to pass a car, and i floored it - by the end of the pass, i was at about 250KM. It was really scary.
I actually used the Greddy, to time a 100Km/s to 200Km/s, from rolling at 100Km/s.
Best run was about 10 seconds. Worst pass was 10:30 seconds.
Its a great turbo, go for it !
Can you give some info about the BIG brake conversion, you got ? Price, pictures, info.....
Thanks.
You may have a hard time fitting the 345mm brakes under the R33 GTRs.......
This is the turbo I would go for with a 0.64 a/r.http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-036&Category_Code=GRT I have the 0.86 version and it's a bit slow spooling. This is the same spec as Tomei ARMS turbo what they recommend for the SR.http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/inf/pdf/90_ae_A4.pdf
That Tomei turbo spec looks to be very much the same as a HKS GT-RS which yeah, is basically a 52-Trim GT2871R..
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT28/GT2871R_472560_15.htm
cant really compare it to a 3071R though, would struggle to hit 400bhp, great all round turbo never the less.
If I was looking to go past the 400bhp mark i would look into a Greddy TD06 20G kit with cams easily hit the 450bhp+ mark without running crazy boost
:nod:
Thanks for the comments and advice.
If the .86 is boosting by 4k on a standard engine, it might be say, 500rpm earlier on mine with all the mods, so that would be fine. Its still at the bottom of the list at the monent as mentioned, I will look into it after a few track days.
Everything else is coming together. Coilovers and locking collars are on, but not tried them yet as I broke one of the front brake pipes as they were bodged as is the norm by the previous owner.:rolleyes: My steering wheel has arrived (Omp Wrc jobbie) as has my seat frame and boss. Got the frame and boss from Driftworks, and I have to say that I will be using them again, spoke to someone who knows what he was talking about and didnt have to keep asking someone else for answers AND they had all the stuff on the shelf at reasonable prices, like some of the other tuners used to be.
Anyway, I have nice goodridge hoses now from DB Brakes.:Plug: We offered up the 345mm to my r33 wheels and the evo8 track wheels I have, its going to be close, closer on the evo wheels too....but with a bit of luck, my spacers and maybe a slight shave of the caliper they should go in, fingers crossed.....:wack:...the Porsche ones probably wouldn't fit the Evo wheels though, but MIGHT, MIGHT fit the Skyline wheels....not that I need these yet, but i will keep them in mind for the future.:wack:
So if all is well, I should get the car back on its wheels, with all new suspension and front brakes, get the seat in, steering wheel fitted and harness in by sat.
Then I have it booked in with Tony Bones at wheels in motion in Hemel for a full alignment job on tuesday......its been an expensive week.:eek:
I am hoping that the car will then be what I really want it to be, and I can get on with the job of enjoying it and only have to worry about fuel/tyres/brake pads.:D
If I was looking to go past the 400bhp mark i would look into a Greddy TD06 20G kit with cams easily hit the 450bhp+ mark without running crazy boost
Are they not about £2500 though?!?!?:confused:
a little cheaper from the states, around £1600 less duty. but yeah, you need to changes quite a few bits to fit it and the kit is very comprehensive and has all you need.
Ok, they sound good and I know lots of people have had good results with them but realistically its £1000 more than the 3071R and whilst the greddy is a full kit, I don't think that the Garrett item is exactly tricky to fit.......
:)
Update:
Well, I have just had the first decent drive in the car, and wow. Wow, wow, wow. Truly stoked.
:clap:
I had the suspension setup by a guy reccomended on here, called Tony Bones at http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/and what a top guy he is.:thumbs: The car was as bad as it could have been, with the geometry all over the place, so we got it back to a decent "base" setup, which i can move on from with this after a few miles. Its basically the whiteline sport settings with some toe in (1mm) at the front, the theory being, that 1mm at static is probably near on straight ahead at speed.
Anyway, the car is so much better now, starting to turn into the car I had hoped I could build, but have felt so far off till now. It really handles, or is at least starting too, its now telling me from bum on seat and hands on wheel whats going on, it really is brilliant.
There is still loads to do, but it was a big lift tonight to have a success and big step in the right direction, its crazy that we are all obsessed with BHP this and PSI that, when if it don't handle and stop, whats the point?
Anyway, will update with a few pics etc when I have the seat and stuff in.:thumbs:
yeah, Tonys pretty enthusiastic about suspension geometry.
What is your current suspension spec spec?
Yeah, under load the toe of both front a rear can vary considerably with standard bushes. Running 1mm toe in on the front is pretty common.
Glad you finally starting to enjoy your car :thumbs:
Sounds good mate. I know what you mean about the power obsession I am going to be going for 350 ish bhp, that is a rediculous amount of power really when you consider other cars!
What sort of alignment bits do you have on there at the moment?
Thanks chaps.
Its the mono-flex, rear locking collars and rear adjustable camber arms, so thats all at the moment, so fairly standard.
I suspect the bushes are fairly knackard as they have done 100k so there is possibly room for improvement there in the future, complete susupension overhall would be nice actually, but not right now.
Apart from that and uprated roll bars in the future, I have no fixed plans to change....:D
Grab a set of poly drop links, much cheaper than replacing the arbs and will tighten up the slack that is currently present with the standard arb setup.
Nice tip hesky, thanks.
Who does 'em mate?:)
DB Brakes and Apex both sell kits for 50quid front and rear (probably use same supplier)
apex also just sell the poly bushes which fit in place of the old arb drop link bushes, 20quid front and rear it works out at.
in both cases you need the arb mounts which hold the bar to the chassis, apex sell those bushes to.
at a later date you can just buy stiffer arb bars if you want less role :nod:
Can you give some info about the BIG brake conversion, you got ? Price, pictures, info.....
Yeah, sorry mate, I will take a couple of pics, hope to fit them next weekend.:thumbs:
Looks good fella, quite fancy some of those mono-flex's :nod:
Thanks Cowell. They are still not setup 100% yet, as there has been some confusion on setup information from Japan via Tein Uk. Should be able to get this sorted this weekend though I hope.
This weekends plans are:
Setup Coilovers
Fit Brakes and test clearance with both sets of wheels
Fit new exhaust if it arrives.... I have ordered a HKS 409 to quieten the car down to allow me on track.
Sort out rattles
Fit rear shelf back
Tidy cabling
Check rear caliper, possibly seized.
Cheack rear wheel bearing.
Service and spanner check.
Edit: Seat, belt, and steering wheel too.
And prob about 100 other things lol.:smash:
:D New exhaust is waiting for me at home!:wave:
V Quick update:
New exhaust = the bollox, very pleased.
New Tein settings (made up at home cos Tein Uk's are wrong) = MUCH better.
New brakes didnt fit - boooo - poss problems with 300zx calipers.
New Primera GT daily driver collected - 36.1mpg on the way back, hurrah!:ghey: :D :D
HKS exhaust for the win :nod: :cool:
I set my coilovers to Teins recomended heights origionally and then decided it needed to be much, much lower, so down it went.
HKS exhaust for the win
Oh yeah you know it, cheap chinese crap for the bin!:rolleyes:
Which Teins do you have? The mono flex's have a helper spring on the rear, but if I adjusted them to the settings they suggest, it is completely compressed even with no load on, so doing nothing. I have now wound it right out, and its MILES better, car pitches nicely, turn in is far better.
That and the new zorst are brilliant, can hear the induction roar now, lots more wooshing and sucking, but still flames so thats all good.:D
Just enjoyed a drive home so much, I had to turn around and go back for more lol.
Now I need brakes, I am thinking AP's again.......:wack:...then the 3071R.:clap:
diamondsink
05-11-2007, 12:32
The 345mm kit didnt fit under the GTRs?
Will be getting the 330m kit then.
Im afraid i not have Teins, but i thought that set up to their settings the car was too high, think its too low now but it seems to drive ok. Might raise it a little for next year though when i get round to it.
Grrrr, need some proper brakes, getting pissed off.
They seem impossible to buy unless you have a £10000000000000000000 pounds.:annoyed:
Big brakes by a Proper ;) manufacturer are worth every penny though...............
you really couldnt have a car that has big brake kits cheaper than the 200!
Big brakes by a Proper ;) manufacturer are worth every penny though...............
Arrive Thursday.:wave: :nod: :nod:
:cool: :cool: :cool: :cool:
STOP
Hammertime!
:D:D:D:D:D:D
Now need rears.......
Good work chap, best you could have brought, definatly :nod::nod:
Master Chief
24-11-2007, 17:10
How much did the AP Kit cost ? Whats the size ???
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