Question for those who 1/4mile

[Alex l]

I friend over on DW is have problems with his trips to Santa Pod,
Hes got a Vauxhall Monaro putting out 420bhp and iirc 395 ft/lb, So theoretically he should be high 12's/very low 13's.

Any advice for him to help him get better?

Heres a vid from his attempts this weekend

http://www.fenderboy.demon.co.uk/StPod0306.wmv
__________________
And his best time:

My best run:

60': 2.363
330: 6.083
1/8 et: 9.083
1/8 mph: 82.75
1000' et: 12.230
1/4 et: 13.775
1/4 mph: 105.12
(tyre pressures: 28 rears, 36 fronts)

Alex:thumbs:

[ian_t]

Buy some 15" wheels and drag slicks :confused:

Isnt it obvious

[Alex l]

He is going for drag radials next time he goes

[Crazykidd]

the manaro's are a pain to get off the line quickly tbh i was up against one at elvington in my stg 1 200 s 13 i won they dont launch for sh**e tell him to try n get off the line at around 4 grand n not slip too much needs to learn clutch control and that will help a lot

[JB]

If you look you'll find we have a motorsports section :rolleyes:

I'll move this to it for you ;)

[ian_t]

He is going for drag radials next time he goes

Then he wont have any more problems, apart from his clutch and gearbox perhaps lol. :)

[Alex l]

the manaro's are a pain to get off the line quickly tbh i was up against one at elvington in my stg 1 200 s 13 i won they dont launch for sh**e tell him to try n get off the line at around 4 grand n not slip too much needs to learn clutch control and that will help a lot

Heres his starts:

I just couldn't get the launch right. The weird thing was I wasn't bogging or spinning or hopping as I was trying all the methods out, I just couldn't get it to move! That was my best 60' of the day, my average was around 2.4. I tried launching at 3000, 3500, granny starting, whatever, it didn't seem to make a difference. 3500 gave LOTS of spin, 3000 didn't seem enough power and granny starting it just made it bog down. I need TRACTION! So I'm gonna get me some Drag Radials for next time.

How much difference would a head wind make?

He said there was a 20-30mph one so thinking about it this could be the main problem


If you look you'll find we have a motorsports section :rolleyes:

I'll move this to it for you ;)

:o sorry

[ian_t]

Head wind, haha nice one

Its prob just where it was/cold rubbish surface.

My best 60' at the pod was 2.3seconds with launch and traction control, the monaro is a bit more lardy so 2.4 sounds about right. With some slicks or even with hoosier quicktimes etc you should be seeing 1.6-1-7 60' if your drivetrain can take it.

[Alex l]

Seriously though the wind there can be amazing, i went when Sumo Power broke the 9's and could hardly stand up it was that strong.

Hes got Nitrous(100 bhp) being installed soon, but i think it'd really benefit from some proper TC.

I think the weight of the whole car wont help, as i'm sure an SX with the same figures would be alot quicker( the engine maybe more stressed, but quicker)

[jrtuning]

saw the one at elvington and didnt seem fast at all i think it may have been his first time there as there was some very slow times and it looked like he was trying to get used to the car or drag racing in general.

[ian_t]

Why not go the whole hog eh -
Racelogic launch and traction control plus clutch switch - £700
Nitrous - £700
Drag tyres and rims - £600
Twin plate clutch - £1400
Supercharger pully - £100
Motec and mapping - £2000

That should easily see him some good 1/4s lol

[Escy]

I'm not sure if this is the sort of reply your looking for, but when I go drag racing, my launch technique is...

Handbrake Up
Dail up the rev's I want to launch at (nomrally about 3,400rpm)
Slowly lift the clutch untill you can feel the car pulling on the handbrake
Hold in the handbrake button
Drop the handbrake and sidestep the clutch.

Sometimes i'll ride the clutch through 1st gear.

[SM]

Bear in mind that the tarmac will be very cold this time of year, not much grip off the line. Takes a while to hone your launching technique also, I'd say just keep going , try some slight changes on launch see what works, experiment with pressures (I went as low as 24psi on the 14) and he'll get faster, you cant expect it to hit max first time out.

[Alex l]

Thanks for the tips/info i'll pass this link on.

Definetly some good points here.:thumbs:

He took me out in it last year when it was only 389bhp and from a rolling start it was phenomanally fast, but thats not really an option at the strip:)

He has talked of a supercharger aswell, so god knows how quick it'll be then.
I know hes spun the wheels at 95mph on the motorway, although better brakes are on the list aswell as it has a big problem with fade( not sure what the set up is there)

[Master_System]

i was there at the weekend and saw the monaro - i thought it would be getting better times.....

anyway nice motor

anyone got any advice for launching an automatic? my start was useless everytime.

[Escy]

I read about revving it in park and slamming it into drive. Doesn't sound like very easy on the box.

[dobergoose]

Isn't launch control and traction control sorting defeating the point, surely going drag racings about driving not setting up gadgets to do the tricky part for you?

[MeLLoN Stu]

Isn't launch control and traction control sorting defeating the point, surely going drag racings about driving not setting up gadgets to do the tricky part for you?


:nod: :thumbs:

get 1000bhp, wheelie bars and a beetle to fit them to :nod: :D

[dobergoose]

My bugs having none of that bar wheelie bars. The only bit of drag racing trickery I use is a 2 step rev limiter and thats just to get boost on the line, dosen't give you any help with traction.
You don't see traction control on the pro cars, thats like 4wd cars driving in the D1.

[Master_System]

yeah i have done this once before to my auto - but just cant risk busting my gearbox! i tried to plant my left foot on the brake while giving some revs, but got told off by the dude for moving while staged :)

[Roger_Sausage]

Quick ET tip. Shallow stage. We use this technique during qualifying to gain a quicker ET, even with the exact same settings. Go into pre-stage, and then bump in to stage as shallow as you can, so the light is almost flickering. Because the timers are only activated when the startline beam is connected, you get the full roll-out of the front tyre before the clock is started. It may not sound a lot, but it's effectively a rolling start, no matter how small. You'll be surprised at the gain sometimes.

We are incined to redlight in competition using this technique but at a RWYB or similar it doesn't matter.

The other biggest thing, as previously stated is tyre pressures. We run 5psi in our race car, granted they are 33in drag slicks but the principal is the same. By lowering the tyre pressure (sometimes by 8-10psi) gives more opportunity for the sidewall to wrap up and absorb shock, and thus reduce spin.

As for launching an auto, stalling the converter is definately the best way (if your brave enough). If your foot is planted on the brake hard enough the car really shouldn't move. Select D, into stage mash the brake and the throttle (not for anymore than a few seconds tops), this'll always limit the engine RPM to the stall speed on the converter, and on the green release the brake.

[ian_t]

IIRC the lowest you can get away with on a street tyre is 12psi, but dont take my word for it, best to check with manufacturers.

As for the use of launch control the only reason pro driver dont need it is that they dont use street tyres. That means there is no skill involved and they are all cheats, also those that use autos are cheats as well as they dont have to use the clutch and the electronics and trick drivetrains are doing the work for them. In fact those that use clutchs are cheating as it acts as a torque converter and they should have to match rpm to drive speed in order to get it in gear, haHa :p

[dobergoose]

As for the use of launch control the only reason pro driver dont need it is that they dont use street tyres. That means there is no skill involved and they are all cheats, also those that use autos are cheats as well as they dont have to use the clutch and the electronics and trick drivetrains are doing the work for them. In fact those that use clutchs are cheating as it acts as a torque converter and they should have to match rpm to drive speed in order to get it in gear, haHa :p
While we're at it, using a car is just plain cheating, this should be settle barefoot on grass.

[dobergoose]

While we're on the subject or tyre pressures this is weel worth looking at
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v254/dobergoose/tirepressure.jpg

[dobergoose]

As for the use of launch control the only reason pro driver dont need it is that they dont use street tyres.

Custom Car Street Eliminator don't use traction control and they use street tyres, running 8's:nod:

[ian_t]

While we're at it, using a car is just plain cheating, this should be settle barefoot on grass.

Good point, run what your run (RWYR) line up your feet at the pre stage, and fire down the straight, the use of trainers for extra traction is certainly cheating, so are electric feet warmers and red bull.

[Django67]

Custom Car Street Eliminator don't use traction control and they use street tyres, running 8's:nod:

Those are "street" tyres in the loosest possible sense of the word though.

[ian_t]

Custom Car Street Eliminator don't use traction control and they use street tyres, running 8's:nod:

There are street tyres :no: and there are street tyres :nod: :D :D :D

Im planning on buying some street tyres too ;) ;) ;)

Its possible with enough horse power to get 8 seconds with some of the following street tyres ;) :D

Hoosier Quicktime pro
BF goodrich drag radial
Mickey thompson drag radial
Nitto 555R

:thumbs:

The difference between the above and a normal tyre can be around 0.6 seconds on the 60' alone.

edit - doh beaten to it lol

[dobergoose]

Define street tyre then, you can drive to the shops, pass a mot and get pulled by the law and have no troubles.
I have no problem with wrinkle wall tyres, just gadgets that take the skill out of it, drag tyres give increased traction but there not idiot proof, get it sideways on them and you've got trouble.

[ian_t]

DOT approved tyres

[dobergoose]

DOT approved tyres

Thats only for the USA. Mickey T Street ET are DOT approved but you've no chance of being legal on the uk roads.

[ian_t]

As far as im aware, DOT tyres are road legal in the uk, just like many jap cars are sold without e-marked tyres, does not mean they are not road legal. But obviously you would not run drag radials on the road.

For example TOTB competition says cars must be road legal, and yet they allow DOT approved tyres. You cant honestly be telling me its possible to do an 8 second 1/4 mile on a set of nankangs just because of some magical skill are you? LOL

[dobergoose]

these are dot approved

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/mtt-3757.jpg

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/hoo-17606_w.jpg

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/mnh-mhd-02_w.jpg

I think you may be taking my point wrong, I am a fan of drag tyres, dot approved or otherwise, street or race. DOT approval has no standing in the UK.

[ian_t]

You can get DOT approved that meet the UK tread requirements eg all the tyres I have mentioned above like mickey thompson ETs, are DOT approved and have tread similar to many road tyres ie large triangle patterns etc. I believe the slick DOT tyres would prob be a step too far ie "not in the spirit of the event" but at TOTB i saw some cars with the virtual slicks above ie just the two stripes of tread.

In fact come to think of it although not very good for drag racing some people on this very board use toyo 888s and D01s on the road :eek: on diesel and wet roads.

[Django67]

Bear in mind that the Custom Car Street Eliminator Cars have to be taxed, MOT'd and perform a 10 mile public-road cruise as part of qualifying. So the tyres they use (Hoosier Quicktimes, for example) are definitly road legal, but you wouldn't want to use them to pop down to tescos.

They're the drag equivalent of 'legal' trackday tires, that meet the letter of the law but would be seriously compromised in day-to-day use.

As an aside, I did once watch the Street Eliminator cars pull into a petrol station for their mandatory fuel up and hot-start. One of the best car-related things I have ever seen (or heard!). :smitten: :cool:

[Master_System]

As for launching an auto, stalling the converter is definately the best way (if your brave enough). If your foot is planted on the brake hard enough the car really shouldn't move. Select D, into stage mash the brake and the throttle (not for anymore than a few seconds tops), this'll always limit the engine RPM to the stall speed on the converter, and on the green release the brake.


when you say mash the brake and the throttle - can you explain this technique in more detail?

[cossykiller]

when you say mash the brake and the throttle - can you explain this technique in more detail?


press then both fcun hard at the same time:nod: